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Discussion Starter #1
Interested in feedback relative to the overall performance of this accessory. I am currently using my shop vac for the fence and the DC for the cabinet and would like to eliminate the shop vac from the setup.

Comments will be welcome.

Rockler Dust Right® Router Table Dual Port
 

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It should work as well as what you have Jon but how much do you need the one in the cabinet since nothing gets cut below the table top and the router is pushing air through itself (for cooling) upwards through the hole? BTW, do you have an opening in the cabinet equivalent to the size of the hose?
 

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I use that dust port with one of the flex-form hoses (example: 2-1/2" FlexForm? Dust Collection Hose - Rockler Woodworking Tools) going into the end of the Incra fence. Works very well. While i agree with Stick that Y would be more efficient than T, it would require a few more inches out the back of the cabinet to get the Y in the correct orientation. Total depth on the T style is less than my table overhang. Makes no difference in use, but when parking the table i don't need anything else sticking out the back. Based on the dust collection i get, increasing the efficiency wouldn't suck up any more scat.

Your mileage may vary.

earl
 

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I wonder if one can add a 2.5 inch opening to the back of the chamber that houses the router? In other words, the 4 inch DC pulls dust from the chamber and the 2.5 inch shares the suction with the chamber? That would greatly reduce the required DC space behind the router. Any thoughts about that idea?

I read somewhere about drilling holes in the plate to reduce dust on the top of the plate, which can throw off the cut by a mm or so. Any opinions or experience with this?
 

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@Stick486 I wonder if one can add a 2.5 inch opening to the back of the chamber that houses the router? In other words, the 4 inch DC pulls dust from the chamber and the 2.5 inch shares the suction with the chamber? That would greatly reduce the required DC space behind the router. Any thoughts about that idea?

I read somewhere about drilling holes in the plate to reduce dust on the top of the plate, which can throw off the cut by a mm or so. Any opinions or experience with this?
 

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never tried it that way but I don't see why it wouldn't work...
but I don't see why you would want to pull the dust past the motor...
I do know that Y's work substantially better than T's...

I did put a 4'' line out the back and T'd a 2½'' line to that...
it work but left me wanting...
moved the 4'' to the box's center bottom and Y'd the 2½'' to that...
major improvement...
eventually changed the 4'' to 6'' and Y'd the 2½'' to that...
''EUREKA!!!!''
then I fussed w/ making a 4'' boot for the fence...
changed the 2½'' line to 4''...
We are down town now...

TS got a 6'' line to the bottom..
4'' to the blade shroud and 4'' to the blade dust hood...
that method worked..

go to a HVAC duct work supply house and get what you need...
crowns to make taps...
boots...
rigid flex...
pipe..
better blast gates...
round is too round???
go oval and to round for the finial...
in the end everything is cheaper than plastic...
fits better...
99% reusable...
static control...
and wound flex marries right up to it... nothing extra to buy...

now for that MM..
horse hockey...
 

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'@Stick486 Thanks for your tips. Good thought about routing dust past the machine I don't think I'll mess with the router plate. Not using the router much lately, but with frames on the honey do list, I'd like to get it set up now. At present it has a T, but I can get a Y. The new DC gear should improve things dust wise.
 

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Jon this is my setup. I have a Kreg table top router table that I built a small cabinet for. I enclosed the bottom with thin panels and attached with velcro. I can remove any panel if needed. I have a Porter Cable router with through the top adjustment to let it up and down. Most of the time I only use my shop vac on the fence but depending on what I am doing I can hook up both. Look at these pictures and maybe you can get ideas and adapt them to your table.





 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you on and all for the great feedback.

I should have added that the DC is connected via 4" hose at the bottom center of the cabinet.

I'll definitely look into the Y connector and HV tubing.
 
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