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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am building the Crestonwood version of Norm's Ultimate Router Table. Both show a 4" collection for the under the table port and a 2 1/2" for the fence port.
Does the under the table need more flow or would it work better with 4" going to both?
I could also use the Rockler 4" to duel 2 1/2" Y fitting to evenly split the 4" hose coming from my dust collector. Would that work better?

I am using the 1hp Shop Fox dust collector,

Steve
 

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Everything in my shop collects dust. OK, I'm looking at getting a DC later this year. Will be interested to see the replies.
 

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did a modified version of Norm's table I set up w/ the 4'' on the bottom (under the router) and the 2½'' on the fence using the Wye that you are thinking of using...
had the 4'' on the back of the router box... the bottom take off worked way better...
did consider 6'' bottom and 4'' fence..
point...
the line to the fence reduces to 2½'' anyways and will allow only so much CFM of air no matter the hose size...
also.. filleting the ISC's work like charm... highly recommend it...
this is how clean the box stays...
the door holes I drilled one at tome to find optimum air flow
the hole in the back of the box is a cable grommet...

..
 

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I have the Rockler Dust Bucket mounted underneath my table; 4" hose from the back of the box, 2-1/2" hose from the back of the fence. I started with the 4" x 2-1/2" T-adapter shown, added a 90° elbow so I could move the table closer to the wall and finally changed the T-adapter to a Y-adapter based on discussion on this forum. With this set-up -and the vent shown in the photo opened to the correct amount - there is almost no sawdust left in the bottom of the box when I've finished working. I move the hose between my table saw and router table so use the Rockler QD Handle (wish they still made this version, the new one is loose and sloppy).
 

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I hook my 1.5 HP dust collector for down below and my shop vac to the fence. For me, a router table is the easiest tool of all to collect dust. Just guessing I am thinking I collect about 95% of the dust.
 

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I use the Rockler 4"-2 1/2' wye on my fence and under table box, I put an adjustable makeup air port in the side of the box under the table to give plenty of air to the 4". If you are cutting down the total air flow in the system in any restrictions to the amount of air it can draw, adding makeup air in the box will help maintain max airflow , IMHO.
Herb
 

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@tomp913
Looks like you have a makeup air port in the side of your box too.

Herb
Yes, the Dust Bucket comes with the air inlet - and it really works. One time, I noticed that the sawdust was building up in the box which it had never done before. A check showed that I must have inadvertently closed the vent - opening it up about 1/2 way solved the problem.
 

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I like the idea of using a shop vac on the smaller hose. A dust collector just doesn't provide enough static pressure (vacuum) to move much air through a 2 1/2 inch hose.
 

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Hi Steve,

I am also in the process of building the router table, but I bought the plans and video a few years ago from the New Yankee Workshop website.

TomP913, I noticed your Rockler fence is almost identical to the Freud fence I purchased. Are you happy with it ? I am wondering if I should build the fence that comes in the plans or use this Freud I bought ? Anyone else have comments or suggestions ?

Dan
 

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Use the Freud fence, I am certain you will like it. If it doesn't fit your needs you can always make your own. I have an Eagle American on one table and a Jessem on the other, they have so many features that I wouldn't want to build into a fence myself.
Herb
 

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I also have the Rockler fence and yes, it looks a lot like the Freud. It has worked very well for many years. The dust extraction from the top port is fairly good, but I think the metal box below may interfere with its effectiveness since it has a 4 inch port pulling air down. I have a Triton TRA001, which moves a fair amount of air upward, so I'm considering removing the 4 inch from the Rockler box and attaching it to the 2 1/2 port on the back of the fence. Either way, I make it a practice to brush away sawdust on the table between cuts since it has the effect of raising the workpiece slightly. I'm also thinking it would be a good idea to shave a little relief cut off the bottom of the fence to help remove sawdust.
 

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Hi Steve,

I am also in the process of building the router table, but I bought the plans and video a few years ago from the New Yankee Workshop website.

TomP913, I noticed your Rockler fence is almost identical to the Freud fence I purchased. Are you happy with it ? I am wondering if I should build the fence that comes in the plans or use this Freud I bought ? Anyone else have comments or suggestions ?

Dan
always...
you see why and how I modified the design.. more usable space w/ less material..
 

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@Danman1957

Pretty happy with the fence , although there are a couple of things I have/would change. The clamping knobs were awkward to tighten/loosen reaching back over the fence - a couple of these http://www.rockler.com/rockler-easy-to-grip-5-star-fence-knobs-pair?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1NOGtaPs2QIVgUGGCh2anQjwEAYYASABEgIqz_D_BwE solved that problem. The only negative - and probably I'm as much to blame - is that the T-bolts pull into the MDF slots, crushing the material if you're not careful. One change I did make was to drill a second set of holes for the t-bolts on the infeed side of the fence so I could install that facing with a gap at the bottom to make it easy to flush trim edge banding.
@DesertRatTom

I'm not out there at the moment, but I want to say that one edge of the faces has chamfers along the edge to provide dust relief if the face is installed with the chamfer down.
 

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Industrial vacuum cleaner is a more secure way

Industrial vacuum cleaners are required for many woodworking equipments. They have strong suction power and voltage can be adjusted. The vacuum cleaner can also be modified according to different equipment. The area is also relatively small. Price can be bought for a few hundred dollars
 

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I have a four going to the bottom and a 2.5 to the fence. It works very well. Now I may try and redesign so I can use my new Tritons dust shroud pickup.
 

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Steve,

I built that same table design but used the phenolic top from JessEm and Woodpecker's Super Fence. I got excellent deals on both at the time so I just wanted to simplify the build and concentrate on the case itself. As for the dust collection I think you'll find that it depends a great deal on the DC system and its layout. I installed a Clearvue CV1800 and bought their 6" to 2 - 4" blast gate box which works great. One 4" hose connects to a very short 2.5" then connects to the fence. The other 4" goes to the DC box where the router exists. The plexiglass door has 4 - 1" holes for incoming air that work well. Mine DC box barely has any sign of sawdust after doing a good deal of routing and the top is clean and dust free as well. But hook a lesser DC system up and you may not get these results. I also only have one machine/gate opened when using the CV1800.







In my case I installed the door plexiglass in the wrong orientation but it works so good I just left it.

Best project so far for the shop although I'm partial to the outfeed table as well.

-Another Steve
 

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I've spent a lot of money on dust collection over the years and pretty happy with the HF 2hp units I've bought on sale for about $150 each. 1 gets rolled outside so it has only the bag. The other has a Wynn drum filter. Both pull air through a chip collection drum with and in and out Rockler ports on a 30 gallon fiber drum. Only change I'd make would be putting a 4 inch dust deputy on those drums. But even as it is now, the drum collects nearly all the chips and sawdust (and the occasional stray screw or nail).
 
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