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Dust Collector Design

9570 Views 42 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Sominus
I haven't been here lately for a number of reasons, most recently I've been going through the hassles of selling my home in TN and buying a new one in Alabama.. The things we do just to be near our grand kids. I am getting a big benefit from the move which has me pretty excited. I will have a large basement located on grade level with one end open to the outside through sliding glass doors. Easy access and a lot of outside light.

But to get to my point, I want to install a dust collector system. This is all very new to me and I'm not sure what I'm planning will work properly. I read the previous posts on this on Routerforums as well as watched a number of videos on YT. See my sketch below. I believe it's fairly typical for the most part. My plan is to use a Harbor-Freight DC along with a Dust Deputy. I also plan on upgrading the DC with a Wynn filter. One of my concerns is the use of 2-1/2" flex hose.

1) Will the 2-1/2" hose be adequate for its intended purpose? The ports on the equipment are 2-1/2" thus the use of 2-1/2" hose.

2) Does anyone else run 2-1/2" hose to their equipment?

3) Would I be better off using 4" flex hose and then reducing down to 2-1/2" at the equipment. Would it make much difference?

4) Any suggestions on what to use to ensure a good seal on the connection of the trash can lid to the trash can?

I'm only showing 4 equipment hook-ups, but will probably add more; one for my miter saw and another for the Rigid oscillating sander.

Any comments, either design or installation, will be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks Gerry, I believe I will run a 5"main with 4" lines to the equipment. I'll have to see what I need to do to convert the 2-1/2" ports to 4" ports. I think the most challenging one will be the table saw.
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Thanks Gerry, I believe I will run a 5"main with 4" lines to the equipment. I'll have to see what I need to do to convert the 2-1/2" ports to 4" ports. I think the most challenging one will be the table saw.
Rockler has adapters from 2.5 to 4 inches. Or are you talking about cutting out a bigger opening and adding a 4 inch port? Might be possible with some machines, but not all. Not sure how I'd go about cutting a new opening in sheet steel or cast iron. There are lots of 4 inch plastic ports you could attach to the opening.

Another option would be an above the blade 2.5 inch DC hood like the picture, that even above the blade will still pick up a lot of stray sawdust. In fact, I have a similar one I've never set up if you're interested (PM me), still in the box, cheap. You can run the 2.5 inch hose to the saw from a splitter, and a second 2.5 inch line to the above blade DC setup.

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My plan is to modify the ports to 4" if possible. I think I can do it for my jointer and band saw without too much trouble...the others I'll probably end up going with the reducer as you had mentioned. As far as the over-the-blade dust catcher, my honest thought is that it would probably remain in the box at my house too.
Yeah, it's best to cut a bigger hole whenever possible. A 4" hose with a 2-1/2" adapter just won't move enough air.
You have received a lot of great information! For my 2cents worth, I recommend you ditch the 90 degree connectors. At the corner use two 45s. Where you have tool connections (I don’t know the official name) use one that looks more like a Y than T. Dust likes to hang around 90 degree connections. So you may get stopped up or at least restricted air flow.
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Thanks Ellis. All good suggestions that I'll be incorporating!
Convinced me to upgrade my system every..
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Chuck,

I was in a similar situation as yours. I moved from a home with no dedicated shop space to my current place in central Georgia with a partially finished walkout basement. I now have a 400 sq ft dedicated wood shop I am still getting set up. I have the 2 HP Harbor Freight DC with a Rockler Dust Right separator system on a 20 gal plastic drum I purchased on Amazon. This setup captures 99% of the debris into the drum. I am currently using a long 30' piece of 4" DC flex hose that I connect to each tool as needed. I have purchased blast gates and will soon install 4" PVC through the shop.

While watching the Woodsmith show on PBS, they used rubber plumbing fittings that come in different sizes to connect 4" DC hoses to their various sized tool dust ports. I purchased several of these with a 2" size on one end and the appropriate tool size fitting for the tool end. I connect the 2" end to a 4" to 2" reducer. This allows for maximum airflow since the 4" flex is connected just inches from the tool. It will also allow the use of standard 4" blast gates for every tool in case I decide to move some tools to a different location.

My shop is not something I use daily as this time. I hope to change that when I fully retire. The HF DC is up to that frequency of use for me. If you plan on spending a lot of time in your shop then I would invest the money into a higher end DC. I will do that when I get to that point and the current HF unit fails.

Thanks Stick or the excellent DC info. I have saved many of your posts to create my own library of shop knowledge.

Rich
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Here is what I did. I have 30’ of 4” pvc pipe. I used what is called a 4” t-wye for all my take offs and used 4” metal blast gates then reduced after that if needed I put the blast gate into the pipe using latex caulking to make a good seal then secure it with self tapping metal screws. I also ran a solid copper wire inside the pipe and outside also. Better safe than sorry with static electricity. I have a grizzly 1029 dc that has done an excellent job for over 10 years. T wyes are about $12 in my area. The air flow is worth it. I have a 50 gallon blue drum with a Thime chip separator before the DC. W
Everything works great for me. Only thing is i don’t seem to have enough suction to my unisaw. Any help with that would be appreciated. Thanks
I have the Shark Guard, which is great for absorbing above the table sawdust, but I am disappointed at how it gets in the way for narrow rip cuts. I often have to remove it and its riving knife to make a cut. I think I may go back and re-look at the the problem. Maybe install the overarm DC unit I bought but never installed. Wasn't sure how to mount it, but just realized it can be attached to my shop wall next to the table saw. It will lift out of the way and I can keep my riving knife in place. Ah, sawdust, the inspiration for lots of projects.
I have the Shark Guard, which is great for absorbing above the table sawdust, but I am disappointed at how it gets in the way for narrow rip cuts. I often have to remove it and its riving knife to make a cut. I think I may go back and re-look at the the problem. Maybe install the overarm DC unit I bought but never installed. Wasn't sure how to mount it, but just realized it can be attached to my shop wall next to the table saw. It will lift out of the way and I can keep my riving knife in place. Ah, sawdust, the inspiration for lots of projects.
Tom:

Those have been my concerns about the system as well. Look forward to your solutions.

Jon
I still contend that the HF unit is a poor value/investment inadequate money pit when compared to so many better more reliable ready to use units that need nothing...

you can upgrade to 6'' units w/canister and separator included for all that not much more money than a HF reworked unit...

http://www.grizzly.com/dust-collectors
http://www.rockler.com/dust-collection/dust-collectors\

https://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/137893-dc-unit-sale-cheap.html
https://www.routerforums.com/new-member-introductions/138431-intro-newb-question.html#post2014547
Craigslist is a great place to start when looking for alternatves.. I found my Grizzly G0440 there for a great bargain... I agree fully that the HF unit is a poor choice - the money you will spend on upgrades to make it perform adequately would be better spent on a true two stage unit.
Tried it and the site asked me to create a yahoo account. I have no interest in that road so if there is an alternative ounce to the info I would appreciate the reference.
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Small point. At 110 v AC, I think the max hp you can generate is about 1.5 to 1.75, so the HF unit is pushing it a little to claim 2hp. Just don't seem to get around to installing the overarm DC accessory.

This is a really good string.
Small point. At 110 v AC, I think the max hp you can generate is about 1.5 to 1.75, so the HF unit is pushing it a little to claim 2hp. Just don't seem to get around to installing the overarm DC accessory.

This is a really good string.
I personally think many of the claims that HF makes about its 110v dust collector are “pushing it”: Namely, hp and CFPM. (Many companies do the same — HF is not alone.) I’m not sure how they measure it, but the advertised 1550 CFPM has no reliable comparison to reality in this universe. My griz at the advertised 1354 CFPM is in a completely different class when compared to the HF unit (and I have had them side by side to compare).

Honest numbers in a real-life, non-laboratory setting would allow a would-be purchaser to make an educated decision. Even with the mods of a dust deputy, etc, the numbers don’t add up. Budget is a huge consideration, and that cannot be ignored, but when you add the cost of mods in, the Hf bang for the buck is a diluted number which can lead someone down the “sunk cost” road.
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Small point. At 110 v AC, I think the max hp you can generate is about 1.5 to 1.75, so the HF unit is pushing it a little to claim 2hp. Just don't seem to get around to installing the overarm DC accessory.

This is a really good string.
Electric Motor Wholesale
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Went to Rockler today and looked at the 650 Jet. Small, $350, cloth filter bag.
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Went to Rockler today and looked at the 650 Jet. Small, $350, cloth filter bag.
it's still leagues ahead of the HF...
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