Router Forums banner

Dust Collector Design

11K views 42 replies 13 participants last post by  Sominus 
#1 ·
I haven't been here lately for a number of reasons, most recently I've been going through the hassles of selling my home in TN and buying a new one in Alabama.. The things we do just to be near our grand kids. I am getting a big benefit from the move which has me pretty excited. I will have a large basement located on grade level with one end open to the outside through sliding glass doors. Easy access and a lot of outside light.

But to get to my point, I want to install a dust collector system. This is all very new to me and I'm not sure what I'm planning will work properly. I read the previous posts on this on Routerforums as well as watched a number of videos on YT. See my sketch below. I believe it's fairly typical for the most part. My plan is to use a Harbor-Freight DC along with a Dust Deputy. I also plan on upgrading the DC with a Wynn filter. One of my concerns is the use of 2-1/2" flex hose.

1) Will the 2-1/2" hose be adequate for its intended purpose? The ports on the equipment are 2-1/2" thus the use of 2-1/2" hose.

2) Does anyone else run 2-1/2" hose to their equipment?

3) Would I be better off using 4" flex hose and then reducing down to 2-1/2" at the equipment. Would it make much difference?

4) Any suggestions on what to use to ensure a good seal on the connection of the trash can lid to the trash can?

I'm only showing 4 equipment hook-ups, but will probably add more; one for my miter saw and another for the Rigid oscillating sander.

Any comments, either design or installation, will be greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
welcome back Chuck...
here's some material to study on...
every question you have and more will be answered..
there is a lot more if you need it...

..
 

Attachments

#4 ·
When you are using the 2 1/2” lines you might find it more efficient if you can open up the end of the main tube a bit. Particles are floated on an air stream and the smaller hose starves the main pipe for air volume. The 4” pipe will carry 2.5 times as much air volume as the 2.5 inch pipe will. (Radius of the large pipe squared/ radius of the small pipe squared)

Where in Alabama are you moving?!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MEBCWD
#6 ·
I have a similar setup, but decided to get the 5 inch model of the Super Dust Deputy. The problem may be with making the adapters fit, so I suggest you order their metal connectors. The Wynn filter is what I have and it dramatically reduced the fines released into the shop. However, I suggest you check out the Grizzly filter, which has an internal beater arm to knock sawdust down into the collector bag. With the Wynn, you use compressed air to blast from the outside to dislodge the sawdust that eventually clogs the filter.

The Super Dust Deputy SDD, is about $170, more than the 2.5 inch model, but you won't have the problem of the drastically reduced air flow. A 4 inch circle is almost 29 square inches of area, a 2.5 inch circle's area is about 18 square inches. A sizeable difference.

I moved my HF unit out of the shop and into a covered space between my shop and another shed. I am slowly enclosing that space with doors on the end for access, after Stick suggested returning the AC and heated air to the shop after filtration. It is taking me some time to get this done because I tire easily these days. I will install additional filters over the return opening to make sure that air is clean.

I found fiber drums at ULine, online. I have two DC setups, one in the shop, the other in the garage, each has a 30 gallon fiber drum for chip collection. The price has gone up on these, but they are really nice.

The 4 inch Super Dust Deputy comes with a 15 gallon drum, which is just too smal. You can't buy the SDD 4 inch without the drum.

I have several friends living in Alabama. I just don't like the idea of the sweaty summers and hurricanes and twisters. I'll stick with the earthquakes out West.
 
#8 ·
But to get to my point, I want to install a dust collector system. This is all very new to me and I'm not sure what I'm planning will work properly. I read the previous posts on this on Routerforums as well as watched a number of videos on YT. See my sketch below. I believe it's fairly typical for the most part. My plan is to use a Harbor-Freight DC along with a Dust Deputy. I also plan on upgrading the DC with a Wynn filter. One of my concerns is the use of 2-1/2" flex hose.

Any comments, either design or installation, will be greatly appreciated.
I still contend that the HF unit is a poor value/investment inadequate money pit when compared to so many better more reliable ready to use units that need nothing...

you can upgrade to 6'' units w/canister and separator included for all that not much more money than a HF reworked unit...

http://www.grizzly.com/dust-collectors
http://www.rockler.com/dust-collection/dust-collectors\

https://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/137893-dc-unit-sale-cheap.html
https://www.routerforums.com/new-member-introductions/138431-intro-newb-question.html#post2014547
 
#10 ·
Stick, I checked out the links for the DC's and they are less expensive than I thought, but still somewhat outside of my budget. I'll just have to see what I can do. For my clarification though, are you saying the $396 1-1/2 hp Grizzly will perform better than the ~$200 2 hp Harbor Freight? Big price difference.
 
#14 · (Edited)
The HF unit is the one thing about which I disagree with Stick. If you buy it on sale the price is around $168 dollars. I've had two trouble free for several years. One for each shop area (shop and garage), one with the Wynn drum filter and the other with just the bag (sits outside the garage during use). I think Stick has a point for a heavy use shop, but which unit in our price range has the ability to run for a thousand or more hours per year? I'm certainly not using it that much, and if I had a heavy use shop, I'd be spending far more ($1200-1800) for an industrial unit. BTW, the HF unit comes in a great padded package and takes an hour or so to assemble.

The impeller is sufficient for a home shop as is. Stick is talking about modifying it by replacing the HF impeller with one sold by Rikon, which greatly increases air flow, and is metal, not plastic. By using the Super Dust Deputy, you catch pieces that might damage the HF impeller, but you do not need to change the impeller to get good DC function. That is one of the modifications Stick pointed to. {One of our members did a long series of posts on upgrading the impeller and the tremendous increase it produced in flow.)

After realizing that many name brand tools are made in the same factories as, say, WEN tools, I really don't see any noticable difference between the various brands that use the same design as the HF unit. An American made motor of the same rating is more than the HF unit itself, so I doubt that a $400 brand name unit has that much better motors, the economics really don't work for the marketing company.

I don't have a store handy to check where the Jet, Grizzly and other brands of DC units were manufactured. Yet, I'd bet all the lower priced units come from Chinese factories. In fact. for example, the WEN 12 inch drill press has exactly the same casting marks as the Jet, priced half again as much as the WEN. I've noticed the same for many other tools. On the Grizzly link Stick posted, you'll see a ceiling mounted filter with timer and 3 speeds. It is exactly the same as the WEN unit that I got on sale on WalMart online for $99 delivered to my local store.

As I said, this is the only area in which I disagree somewhat with Stick, and then not when it comes to a commercial or heavy use shop. If I were a rich man, I'd probably have an American made DC unit with 220, 3 hp motor and a steel cyclone separator. But I'm not rich and I'm a hobbyist and I think most of us here fall into that category. I think you'll be very happy with the HF/Super Dust Deputy setup and the 30 gallon drum will be great.

One small modification I suggest is on the drum, add a half inch ply circle to mount the deputy on to make it rigid, and to cut a small opening somewhere on the lid, covered and sealed with glass or Lexan so you can see the dust level inside. Otherwise, your cue to empty the drum will be large amounts of sawdust in the HF unit's bag.

I found some 50 gallon plastic bags that fit the HF unit on Amazon. You won't be using many of them over your lifetime if you empty the drum regularly. 2/3rds is full in my drums.

Attached is a picture of the ceiling mounted dust filter by WEN. It is something to add since you're exhausting filtered air into the shop. Of course you can make do with a 20 inch box fan with a filter taped to the front. It just won't have the timer. You hang your filter from the ceiling on one side of the shop so you get a circular air flow. If you use a box fan, hang it upside down so you can reach the on/off/speed switch. Use aluminum duct tape to secure the filter tightly to the fan. Do not put the fan on the floor, it will just stir up and launch the sawdust.
 

Attachments

#16 · (Edited)
Note that the Jet unit at $400 has a cloth bag, so add the cost of a drum filter and you're up to $600, no shipping assuming you can get to a store, $80 shipping if you can't. The steel impeller is a nice feature and probably accounts for the increased CFPM. The fiber drum is about $70, the Super Dust Deputy is about $200 with connectors. Add shipping for the drum and SDD, maybe $50.

$ 400 Jet DC-650 No shipping, assuming pickup at store.
$ 200 Griz Drum filter
$ 70 Shipping
$ 70 Fiber drum 30gallon
$ 20 est. shipping
$ 200 5 inch Super Dust Deputy and connectors
$ 30 est. shipping
-------------------------------------
$ 980 Total cost, plus tax if applicable
====

This does not include any costs for hoses and other parts of the system.

All costs are roughly the same except for the HF's lower original price, assuming it is purchased on sale with a coupon. Each buyer will have to choose their options, for example, when I set my units up, I didn't have the super dust deputy, but used the Rockler DC connectors in the fiber drums--not as effective as the Super Dust Deputy, but more than adequate. If you can set the unit outside somehow, the Jet filter bag filters 2.5 microns vs. the HF 5 micron. What has changed for me is that I want to recirculate very clean air back into the shop.

It's been many years since I checked prices on the Jet unit, and I remember it being substantially higher. Since I already have the HF units, this is all moot for me, and the HF unit is still, as is, a pretty good buy for a small shop or someone on a very tight budget.
 
#19 ·
Note that the Jet unit at $400 has a cloth bag, so add the cost of a drum filter and you're up to $600, no shipping assuming you can get to a store, $80 shipping if you can't. The steel impeller is a nice feature and probably accounts for the increased CFPM. The fiber drum is about $70, the Super Dust Deputy is about $200 with connectors. Add shipping for the drum and SDD, maybe $50.

$ 400 Jet DC-650 No shipping, assuming pickup at store.
$ 200 Griz Drum filter
$ 70 Shipping
$ 70 Fiber drum 30gallon
$ 20 est. shipping
$ 200 5 inch Super Dust Deputy and connectors
$ 30 est. shipping
-------------------------------------
$ 980 Total cost, plus tax if applicable
====
why did you include the separator in the pricing for the DC-650???
and why price a Jet unit w/o canisters and upgrade it instead of a unit that already has a 1 micron canister filter...

w/o any serious shopping..

build your own deputy...
30 gallon trash can w/ lid - 25$
major extreme duty trash can... 35$
PVC or HVAC fittings.. 11~28$ depending on what you select...
no shipping... all local BB purchases...

not on sale DC-650 w/ canisters and cleaning paddles.... 550$ plus 60$ shipping...
https://www.rockler.com/jet-dust-collector-1hp-w-canister-filter

no shipping from Amazon..
https://www.amazon.com/DC-650CK-Col...ds=jet+dc-650&qid=1558471657&s=gateway&sr=8-3

HF.... (figures from Tom's posting)
1. impeller upgrade................100?
2. separator (parts)...............100?
3. WYNN filter.......................200?
4. shipping for all the parts....100?
5. price of HF unit.................200
6. 2nd HF unit......................200
7. estimated CFM.................?

why even bother upgrading when you can plug and play...
 
  • Like
Reactions: DesertRatTom
#17 ·
Thanks for a ton of good information Tom. My thoughts are similar to yours in that I'm just a hobbyist and don't put a lot of hours on my equipment and so it's hard for me to justify putting extra money into it if I don't need to. If I went commercial, which I have absolutely no plans on doing, I too would certainly opt for a better quality system.

I feel quite confident that Stick is correct in everything he said, but perhaps not for my particular situation. I plan on looking into the Wen or similar unit for additional filtration. I think that most people would agree that health is something that you can't put a price tag on.

I have learned a lot from this post, and the system that I initially imagined will be quite different from the one I will be installing. Whenever I ask a question on this forum, I get great advice. Thank you everyone for your valuable feedback.
 
#22 ·
Rockler has adapters from 2.5 to 4 inches. Or are you talking about cutting out a bigger opening and adding a 4 inch port? Might be possible with some machines, but not all. Not sure how I'd go about cutting a new opening in sheet steel or cast iron. There are lots of 4 inch plastic ports you could attach to the opening.

Another option would be an above the blade 2.5 inch DC hood like the picture, that even above the blade will still pick up a lot of stray sawdust. In fact, I have a similar one I've never set up if you're interested (PM me), still in the box, cheap. You can run the 2.5 inch hose to the saw from a splitter, and a second 2.5 inch line to the above blade DC setup.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
My plan is to modify the ports to 4" if possible. I think I can do it for my jointer and band saw without too much trouble...the others I'll probably end up going with the reducer as you had mentioned. As far as the over-the-blade dust catcher, my honest thought is that it would probably remain in the box at my house too.
 
#25 ·
You have received a lot of great information! For my 2cents worth, I recommend you ditch the 90 degree connectors. At the corner use two 45s. Where you have tool connections (I don’t know the official name) use one that looks more like a Y than T. Dust likes to hang around 90 degree connections. So you may get stopped up or at least restricted air flow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Herb Stoops
#28 ·
Chuck,

I was in a similar situation as yours. I moved from a home with no dedicated shop space to my current place in central Georgia with a partially finished walkout basement. I now have a 400 sq ft dedicated wood shop I am still getting set up. I have the 2 HP Harbor Freight DC with a Rockler Dust Right separator system on a 20 gal plastic drum I purchased on Amazon. This setup captures 99% of the debris into the drum. I am currently using a long 30' piece of 4" DC flex hose that I connect to each tool as needed. I have purchased blast gates and will soon install 4" PVC through the shop.

While watching the Woodsmith show on PBS, they used rubber plumbing fittings that come in different sizes to connect 4" DC hoses to their various sized tool dust ports. I purchased several of these with a 2" size on one end and the appropriate tool size fitting for the tool end. I connect the 2" end to a 4" to 2" reducer. This allows for maximum airflow since the 4" flex is connected just inches from the tool. It will also allow the use of standard 4" blast gates for every tool in case I decide to move some tools to a different location.

My shop is not something I use daily as this time. I hope to change that when I fully retire. The HF DC is up to that frequency of use for me. If you plan on spending a lot of time in your shop then I would invest the money into a higher end DC. I will do that when I get to that point and the current HF unit fails.

Thanks Stick or the excellent DC info. I have saved many of your posts to create my own library of shop knowledge.

Rich
 
  • Like
Reactions: chuckgray
#29 ·
Here is what I did. I have 30’ of 4” pvc pipe. I used what is called a 4” t-wye for all my take offs and used 4” metal blast gates then reduced after that if needed I put the blast gate into the pipe using latex caulking to make a good seal then secure it with self tapping metal screws. I also ran a solid copper wire inside the pipe and outside also. Better safe than sorry with static electricity. I have a grizzly 1029 dc that has done an excellent job for over 10 years. T wyes are about $12 in my area. The air flow is worth it. I have a 50 gallon blue drum with a Thime chip separator before the DC. W
Everything works great for me. Only thing is i don’t seem to have enough suction to my unisaw. Any help with that would be appreciated. Thanks
 
#30 ·
I have the Shark Guard, which is great for absorbing above the table sawdust, but I am disappointed at how it gets in the way for narrow rip cuts. I often have to remove it and its riving knife to make a cut. I think I may go back and re-look at the the problem. Maybe install the overarm DC unit I bought but never installed. Wasn't sure how to mount it, but just realized it can be attached to my shop wall next to the table saw. It will lift out of the way and I can keep my riving knife in place. Ah, sawdust, the inspiration for lots of projects.
 
#35 ·
Small point. At 110 v AC, I think the max hp you can generate is about 1.5 to 1.75, so the HF unit is pushing it a little to claim 2hp. Just don't seem to get around to installing the overarm DC accessory.

This is a really good string.
 
#36 ·
I personally think many of the claims that HF makes about its 110v dust collector are “pushing it”: Namely, hp and CFPM. (Many companies do the same — HF is not alone.) I’m not sure how they measure it, but the advertised 1550 CFPM has no reliable comparison to reality in this universe. My griz at the advertised 1354 CFPM is in a completely different class when compared to the HF unit (and I have had them side by side to compare).

Honest numbers in a real-life, non-laboratory setting would allow a would-be purchaser to make an educated decision. Even with the mods of a dust deputy, etc, the numbers don’t add up. Budget is a huge consideration, and that cannot be ignored, but when you add the cost of mods in, the Hf bang for the buck is a diluted number which can lead someone down the “sunk cost” road.
 
#40 ·
it's still leagues ahead of the HF...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top