Router Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening, and introducing myself/ 1st post on what looks like a fine site indeed.

Now your braincells if you please. Ive a simple prob, but can't see a simple solution. I use a 1.2kw std portable router and a 800w sheet sander. I rout 75% and sand remainder of my time. I use a fingerjoint jig, a router pivot thingy (std affair), and a straight-edge I run the router along for cuts. I use pine, and ply.

That's all I use, for the time being/ as simple as that.

Problem is: DUST. Loads and loads and loads of it, and very fine too= really nasty conditions. So I need to find the right, and most cost-effective (I cannot warrant, or afford £200) extractor, or vacuum device or whatever this is called, or looks like, or how its applied.. or.. what is it? and how can I use it with a router that's pivoting, running along an edge foe 30" or so, or running along/ in and out of a jig for 20" or so? At the moment you see Im being covered from head to toe, as its firing directly into my chest with very fine dust (using the fingerjoint jig particularly). Cutting ply is almost unbearable for dust.

I'm at a total loss as to how I can extract this dust- if anyone can help. thanks JiLm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
The simplest extraction tool would be a 'shop vac'. Check out: Shop-Vac® Brand. The Original Wet/Dry Vac™

There are many manufacturers that produce these vacs. Check your local hardware store.

You will also need vacuum hookups to your tools. Many tools come with such provisions. Check into accessories for your tools.

Having said that, you will not be able to go dust-free. Routers are the most severe dust producers, and not everything can be captured at the source using any kind of dust extraction. Containment is one solution. You could erect a tent around your sanding/routing station. I personally do all my dust production outside.

Good luck! MM
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,056 Posts
BIGjiLm...

post the make and model of your router... there are a few folks here abouts that are darn good at coming up with solutions for problems such as yours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks folks- my router is a Black & Decker KW900E a 2 yr old UK bought model.

Is the shop-vac a particularly good make then, or is there a reason this was mentioned.. maybe its more of a work type than a household type or something? I can see a used 'pro 45' on ebay here in UK fwiw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
'Shop-vac' is a more or less generic term for vacuums made for rough use. Incidentally, there is also a line called Shop-Vac. Several toolmakers have their own versions of shop vacs (Festool, Bosch, Fein, etc.). They are usually quite powerful, reasonably quiet, well thought out, and expensive. For 'normal' use, Ridgid has a good line, and so does Shop-Vac. Don't know what's available in the UK, but I am sure there are equivalent vacs. Best - MM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks chaps- fwiw Ive snapped up that 'shop vac' for £15 on ebay, sort of squat compact unit with a long hose & bits.. so hope to get that somehow attatched to my router/ sander.

I was also loaned a rather serious-looking Clarke 1hp woodwork dust extractor, which, on face of it seemed like a godsend.. but with its 4" pipe, & afaict from other experienced workshop diy'ers' replies (over here/ on my audio forum > diy section) its not really suitable for a portable router and sander. I think its really designed for larger fixed powertools such as a tablesaw, extracting form underneath afaict.

Any thoughts on this? is it correct, and that I couldn't really use this Clarke 1hp for my application? any thoughts appreciated.

Cheers Capt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,921 Posts
Welcome to the forums JiLim. One simple solution is to hook your dust collector to a table top nozzle like the one in the first photo. This measures 12-3/4" high by 16" wide and hooks to a 4" hose. This will capture most of the dust. You can also build your own version of the down draft table shown in photo 2. For the very fine particles in the air you should have a HEPA type filter. The ones like photo 3 are ok for a small shop. Photo 4 shows a typical HEPA filter like you would find in homes and offices. People buy these and then find out the price of replacement filters and sell them off cheap. This particular model is a UK product sold under the name iclean. You can take the filters outside and blow them clean with an air hose. I bought mine at a yard sale for $15.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mike- thank you, really helpful that info is. Ok now Ive formulated a plan to make a series of holes in my router area/table top, then a shallow sealed box underneath with s'how a 4" hole fixing the pipe to that. This would help routing the ply sheets Id have thought, but with a fingerjoint jig sitting ontop of this table/area, and with its debris firing right at my chest when routing I can't see the extractor making any headway on this.. it must be a router/ smaller hose attaching somehow directly onto it/adjacent as poss to make any headway to extracting of this debris.

Well at least Ive got both the serious-looking Clarke big 1hp thing with its 4" pipe, AND a small shop-vac now.. so its just a case of applying one(ideally)/either/or both into my set-up properly enough to be really effective.

Its not a simple issue this is it?! odd as I can't think of a more basic situation using basic routing jobs than a heap of dust being involved.. Im surprised there's not an obvious method/solution.

cheers all- JiLm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,747 Posts
I'm not sure my idea is practical or would even work in your fingerjoint situation, but here goes.

My router fence is a 4"X4" square aluminum tube with a 8" long by 4" high opening in the side at the router bit location. This opening is for replaceable plastic inserts that your bit cuts through. Sorta like a zero clearance insert in the table saw. On one end of the fence/tube is a vacuum hose connector. The other end is closed.
When I do table work where the bit is outside the fence, I remove the plastic insert and allow the vacuum to pull dust into the tube. It isn't 100%, but I collect quite a bit this way.
I'm thinking that, in your situation, you might find a similar square tube of plastic, or build one of 1/4" ply or MDF. Building it would allow for different sizes, too. Of course, the tube could terminate a ways beyond the router bit, where mine spans the table. Or, you could use it as a fence. You could even make the opening, at the source of the dust, adjustable with a sliding door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Gene- this info is really good.. thanks. Now only thing is I can't quite formulate the idea (roughly speaking I can).. any chance of a pic of the 4x4/ attachment/box type thing you mention? sounds absolutely ideal just cant quite visualise it.

cheers, Capt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,747 Posts
I'll try to get some pics later. Mine is commercially made as a part of the router table. It also serves as the table saw fence.
We are flying out tomorrow to wife's brother's funeral in Illinois so, pictures will be 10 days away, or so.
In the meantime, imagine a 4" square tube made from plywood or 1/4" MDF. Long enough to span your table. The front, or bit side, would have an opening about 4" long and 4" high, centered on the bit.
To create the opening, you would cut two bottom pieces and two front pieces 2" shorter than the length of the tube. The top and back pieces would span the table. Close both ends of the tube and drill a hole in one end to accept a shopvac nozzle. Or, to accept a piece of plastic piping for the shop vac hose's ID. You could use a collar to hold it in place. Drill and insert in the tube end piece then attach the collar and, finally affix the end piece to the end of the tube. I'd epoxy the collar to the piping and the epoxy the pipe and collar in the end piece.
Also, in addition to the closed end opposite the vac end, you might insert another piece closer to the opening for the bit. Give you more suction, I'd think.
Just clamp the whole thing to your table. Or, make the bottom pieces of the tube 6" + - wide and use the extra width for clamps.
I have some ideas as to how to make the zero clearance inserts, if you decide to make this and use it as a fence.
Afterthought: You might want to seal the inside corners of the tube with silicone caulk to eliminate air flow through any cracks at the joints. You judge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That sounds like a plan- thanks will look fwd to a pic. In the meantime Ive had partial succees..

The shop-vac I bought Im simply attatching to a fashioned router adaptor so it enters from above/ good fit (tho the area around the bit has a gap, obviously, so I assume 50% of pressure is wasted but even so) and for 1/2 the jobs it works very well collecting 8/10ths of dust. And also the suction good so I just whach hose on end of sander and 7/10ths of dust collected.. which is GREAT & made a huge difference to me already. And for £20 for the shop-va an ebay bargain. I have to clean filter carefully/ regularly but seems able to cope too without a prob, hopefully.

Thing is with the 1/2" fingerjointing the (solid flat, with its brass centre ring) baseplate is a very tight fit around the bit (1mm clearance or so) so there is pretty much no suction able to get thru/down to bit area. So routing fingerjoints, sitting the router in & out of the alu teeth of a jig as it goes along, Im exactly where I was b4 ie covered from neck to toes with all debris firing at my chest.

So, this is the only prob to solve now is a way to use the hose from an angle under the router, twds front somehow to sort the f'jointing/ jig debris. A box on front of jig?.. or s'thing.. but A) I need to see, B) it would have to be biggish, and C) as router is lifted on, in & out it goes along the alu jig template.. cant see what could be made/ used.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top