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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put my new Byrd cutter head on and now I have snipe on both ends which wasn't there before. I watched a video on YT and as far as I can tell I installed it right. Installation is pretty straight forward. Any suggestions as to what needs to be done?
 

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experiment w/ table coplaner and depth of cutter...
I see you did take me off of your lists...
I should have gotten that head for thorough testing 1st...
 
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I don't remember if I had any more snipe than normal, when I swapped mine out. But I do remember that the shelix has a slightly (1/16, 1/32) diameter than the OEM head. I had to adjust my infeed and outfeed tables to get a consistent feed rate. I use a Wixey depth gauge and I had to re-calibrate that as well. I still get snipe but no more than with the OEM head. Any snipe I get is usually caused by me not paying attention, with either trying to take to much off, or, not properly supporting the board as it feeds or exits the planer. One of the things that really helps me, is to clean the rollers on a regular basis. I notice an immediate improvement in cut quality when they are clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
experiment w/ table coplaner and depth of cutter...
I see you did take me off of your lists...
I should have gotten that head for thorough testing 1st...
Stick I only take off at most a 1/2 turn of the wheel and the least amount is 1/4 turn. I just reset my tables about two weeks ago but I will try and adjust the tables again.

List!!! What list are you talking about. When I grew up I got rid of all my list. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't remember if I had any more snipe than normal, when I swapped mine out. But I do remember that the shelix has a slightly (1/16, 1/32) diameter than the OEM head. I had to adjust my infeed and outfeed tables to get a consistent feed rate. I use a Wixey depth gauge and I had to re-calibrate that as well. I still get snipe but no more than with the OEM head. Any snipe I get is usually caused by me not paying attention, with either trying to take to much off, or, not properly supporting the board as it feeds or exits the planer. One of the things that really helps me, is to clean the rollers on a regular basis. I notice an immediate improvement in cut quality when they are clean.
Thanks Bob I haven't cleaned my rollers in a while.
 

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Don, try a "sled". Mine's a 4' length of melamine coated MDF shelving stock from a big box store.
Just lay it on the bed and screw a stop on the underside to catch the front edge of the infeed table.
At your depth of cut, snipe elimination is almost guaranteed.
 

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Eight years or so ago I purchased a DeWalt 735 and a Byrd cutter head at the same time. I never used the planer with the original head because I plane a lot of figured wood. I also did what Gene suggested of putting a 4' piece of melamine as a base for the boards to ride on. Occasionally I take all the cutters out and drop them into mineral spirits to clean them. I also use a brush to clean the area when the cutters screw in and wipe off the rollers. I get minimum snipe some of which I sand out and some I allowed enough scrap at each end to not be a problem. Malcolm / Kentucky USA
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don, try a "sled". Mine's a 4' length of melamine coated MDF shelving stock from a big box store.
Just lay it on the bed and screw a stop on the underside to catch the front edge of the infeed table.
At your depth of cut, snipe elimination is almost guaranteed.
Gene I have been using a sled like your for sometime. Thanks
 

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Whether I have snipe or not I always cut a few inches off the ends. Over the years on occasion I have had problems with cracking once a project has been built (up to a year in some cases). So now I leave the boards long until after they are planed. Doing it that way I don't have to be concerned or fiddle with adjustments to try and prevent sniping. Besides I never trust an end to be square and like to get rid of the dark wood that comes on a board.
 

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Just looked on Byrd's site. The company says the cutter for the 735 is back ordered for about 90 days. It's their most popular item and manufacturing is backed up with existing orders. WalMart has them for $395, but don't know if they're in stock. I'm going to use up my two sets first, so thanks to the members, I know about offsetting a blade with nicks, and about reversing the blades. That will get me through for now.

That cutter is actually quite small, which was a surprise to me. Replacement inserts were $35 for 10 on the Byrd site. When I finally order a cutter, I'll get some spares at the same time. You get four sides per insert, but at some point you're sure to need the spares.
 

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All blades aren't created equal. The ones that came on my King planer were fairly cheap ones. I bought some replacements at a woodworking show in Vancounver, I think from a company called Pac Hoe and I think the brand was Dimar but it's been quite a few years ago now. Anyway the rep said I would get much better performance out of the ones he sold me. They had more cobalt I think than regular HSS. At the time I bought those blades carbide was also an option but they tended to chip on really hard knots and I work with red cedar often which has really hard knots so I've stayed away from them but maybe the technology is improved now so that they stand up better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Is it possible that the slight difference in diameters of the cutter heads would be the problem? Maybe the rollers are too tight against the board? When the head is cranked down for the cut, wouldn't the rollers be that much tighter?
Just spit balling here. Don't understand how tighter rollers would affect the cut, though. But, maybe worth exploring.
 
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