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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those that already have an array of holes with t-nuts in them on their MDF bed you can make a few strips like shown in the attached photo and screw then down to have t-slots. Cut them so there is a 5/16" gap between each top edge when installed, and a 3/16" wide rabbet on the bottom edge for the t-bolt. You can use them alone or slip sections of real t-track between them like I have if you make the rabbet tall enough to fit the track height. I use 1/4-20 nylon screws to hold the MDF strips down. Their heads are recessed roughly 1/4" into the 3/4" MDF. Nylon so that in case you hit one with a running bit it won't hurt the bit. Start with a narrow 1/2 strip on the outside edges of your table so the back end of a clamp will have something to rest on when using the first t-slot. You won't need a screw in every threaded insert. I'd use every 3rd one.

My original CNC shark came with an MDF slot that had t-slots pre-cut in it. I never had a clamp pull through.

4D
 

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in your dialog, you mention a 1/2 inch strip on the outer edges to support your clamp - - The strip in the photo looks substantially wider then 1/2 inch?
 

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Im not sure of that setup for the bits. Nice but
I just caught a vision of snagging your wrist/forearm over the sharpies.

4D... you have any pics with the MDF off showing the tracks?

I like that idea but wondering how it would work with a vacuum table & zones.
I dont see running the vacuum much, so a clamp method is needed to work
along/around the vac. Dig? :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
in your dialog, you mention a 1/2 inch strip on the outer edges to support your clamp - - The strip in the photo looks substantially wider then 1/2 inch?
What I meant was a strip that was 1/2 as wide as the strips between the t-tracks. Basically 1/2 of a strip, not 1/2" of a strip.

4D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im not sure of that setup for the bits. Nice but
I just caught a vision of snagging your wrist/forearm over the sharpies.
Normally my cart with the PC and controller is right in front of the CNC with not enough room for me to walk or stand between so I'm never reaching over the bit rack. I have thought about making/finding something to cover the bits though, more to keep the chips/dust off the rack when I'm cutting anything.

No photos of the bed with the MDF off and just tracks there. Didn't think to take any when I was assembling it, and it'll be awhile before I have a need to replace the MDF strips.

I have a dust collector ring/removable brush affixed to my router, but for most of the things I cut it has never been very effective. So generally I leave it off and just let the chips fly. Almost therapeutic to clean up when done so I don't mind.
 

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I hate to admit this; I have not used my cnc since april due to yard work, home repairs and visits to doctors! Today I uncovered my cabinet saw to cut a couple of boards for home repair and thought this would be a good opportunity to cut a new spoilboard.

My existing sb has threaded inserts on a 6" grid. I've not be happy with it because it lacks flexibility for clamping. I'm going to try a T-Track setup similar to 4DThinker's. I made good progress in a couple of hours however I still need trim the outside pieces and mill all of them to bolt to the base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well done. Mohawk!

To hold my sections down I used nylon screws recessed into the MDF about 1/4". Threaded inserts in the bottom MDF layer.

4D
 

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Well done. Mohawk!

To hold my sections down I used nylon screws recessed into the MDF about 1/4". Threaded inserts in the bottom MDF layer.

4D
I have threaded inserts in the 1st layer of mdf. Hopefully I can mill the new pieces to line up with the inserts. I also have nylon bolts ordered.
 

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Nice work Bob, that's a beauty of a machine . I wish I could see a play by play of how this spoil board comes together .
 
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