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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of making a router table. I have on order a kreg insert plate, kreg levelers and a triton tra001 router. I have watched Youtube videos and read many threads on how to cut a perfect hole to fit the insert. Some say don't use the levelers but rout a rebate, some say don't follow kreg's directions they don't work and others say they do. I like the idea of the levelers as that means I just cut a hole without the need of a rebate. But then that hole has to be trimmed to give a perfect fit. A video from Steve Ramsay caught my eye. He uses a scrap piece to slowly creep up on an exact fit then uses this as his template for trimming the real piece.

Sorry I'm not allowed to post a URL yet but google "Router table top and fence" on his youtube channel

So what is the easiest way to get this hole exact.

John

PS My first post, so don't yell at me :smile:
 

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Welcome to the forum John.
 

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I would lay the plate where i wanted it.
Then use 4 pieces of straight mdf double side taped down around the outside.
Then remove the plate from inside.
I would then add 1 thickness of masking tape on the inside edge of the mdf.

This will give you a template for routing the rebate or hole, whichever you decide to use.

Once you have the rebate/hole routed, try the plate BEFORE removing the template. If the plate fits tight then it's good, if it doesn't fit, remove masking tape as required and rout again.
 

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Hi John, and welcome to the forum.

I believe Carbatec sell a template for the Kreg insert plate?

But, Angie's method will work very well......
 
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Welcome to the forum, John. I just installed a Kreg plate this last week. In my opinion just follow their instructions and use the leveling kit. I have done it with rebates before but find their way to be the quickest and easiest way to to do it. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Richard. I guess they've tried this so I'll follow their directions. Angie, your way is similar and sounds workable. James, Carbatec don't have a template for this and they are also out of stock of the inserts. I ordered with Amazon over a week ago and it should arrive next week. I'll report back when I've done it. Today I'm assembling the cabinet. Good old fashion pocket holes. Works for me. The top is a 3/4" sheet of melamine and I'll glue and screw another 3/4" sheet of mdf or plywood. I'll wait for the insert before I join the 2 sheets. Might be easier to cut the insert plate on a 3/4" board rather than a 1.5" board.

Thanks for your welcome and input.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Welcome to the forum, John. I just installed a Kreg plate this last week. In my opinion just follow their instructions and use the leveling kit. I have done it with rebates before but find their way to be the quickest and easiest way to to do it. Just my 2 cents worth.
Richard, did you cut the hole using a jigsaw just inside the line and then flush trim after that?
 

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Fitted mine The first time making a rebate. That was much harder to get right than when I made a bigger table and this time used the levellers, following their instructions included in the kit.
Cant be any simpler.
Only problem I had was the double sided tape I used was not strong and there was minor creep along one side as I moved the router along it.
It doesnt matter.
The whole point of the levellers is to get the plate exactly level with the table top. If there is a 1/8" gap around the plate, who cares?
Kreg plates do tend to warp ever so slightly, so either check for square regularly, or thats the first place to look if your project goes a bit wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If there is a 1/8" gap around the plate, who cares?
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You're dead right Bob? A great comment. I blame Youtube videos and some websites that show the plate fitting perfectly. It makes you think ..... I want that. I remember fretting about miter slot to blade parallelism on my table saw until someone said ...."Why are you worried, your saw cuts perfectly square, perfectly parallel rips and joint quality cuts." Does it matter that one web site said it should be less than .003" when you've got .005" but it cuts perfectly.

Thanks Bob, you have cured my obsession. :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Kreg plates do tend to warp ever so slightly, so either check for square regularly, or thats the first place to look if your project goes a bit wrong.
Thanks for the warning. I have read about this and I intend to add support (a home made wooden leveler with an adjustment bolt) underneath the long edges of the kreg plate. I'm still not allowed to enter the URL otherwise I could show you what I mean. I could buy a second set of levelers and modify them to go under the long straight edges as an alternative.
 

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@barri: John, I used a router making multiple passes to cut the hole. Makes a nice clean crisp side.
 

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Barri, dont bother with trying to support the edges of the plate. they warp towards the middle under the weight of the big routers.
Mine warped in two seperate planes, one was a ripple across the plate, high one side and low the other side of centre.
To give kreg their due, they replaced it instantly posted to my door. But when I buy another, it wont be a resin plate, it will be either thick alloy or stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since your post about sagging, Bob, I've researched and found many other posts with the same story. Phenolic plates seems to sag although some have said they don't. I'd love to know the statistics on this. Anyway I'm rethinking the kreg insert. The heavier aluminium (that's the Aussie spelling) plates from Incra and Woodpeckers seem to be a better choice for no sagging. Yes they are more expensive but more solid.

Should I return the Kreg plate and buy an Incra or Woodpeckers. No one has complained about them.
 

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Barri, thats also the UK spelling (we got it first!) . I'm en ex-pat Englishman in Cyprus, so we speak the same language.

If you can return the plate for a full refund, and you can afford the extra cost, then I would do that.
But... its a relatively minor thing and it depends on just how fussy you are and what you want to make with the router table.

If youre making big stuff like doors and window frames. then any sag on the plate is irrelevant.
If you want to make small items like I do (trinket boxes, small gifts) then it becomes more important.
At the moment I'm cutting walnut drawer handles for a childs music box. Only 12mm x 10 mm section and 80 mm long, with rebate and oval cut underneath, so thats much more movement critical. So far this kreg plate is coping.

I have seen on UK ebay a plate made from stainless steel, from a guy in italy. Now, straight and true AND shiny, whats not to like about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
We do speak the Queens's english just with a different accent. Anyway I make jewellery and embroidery boxes, small cabinets, some book shelves and anything else the family wants. I'm only a retired hobbyist. I guess I'm overthinking this. Are you using the Triton TRA001? If so and given your comment about being a minor problem then I'll stick with the kreg, fully support it and hope for the best.
 

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I have a big makita, cant think of the number off hand (think its an 1801?) but its their biggest one, just without speed control.

Same here with the hobby, 50 years machinery and motorcycles, hated wood. Retired 2 1/2 years ago and decided I needed a challenge. Its much easier to be accurate with metal, believe me.
 

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Do any of the other brands of inserts fit in a Kreg table top? How about the hole for the lift adjustment on a Triton Router?
 
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