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Trying to find the jig my friend has for routing 3/4" hardwood flush with the table top surface.
The big is metal with a phenolic base. The porter cable router is offset and there is a round knob to hold the plate flat on the table surface. There is a bearing guide that rolls along the edge of the table as a guide. The router is adjusted so it cuts the wood edging flush with the top.
Anyone know the manufacturer of the jig and where I can find one?
 

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Will these help???
 

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It may help if you could post a picture of what your friend has. That way we'll know what it looks like and would be able to give you more precise information. The only thing I can even guess what you are describing is Pat Warner's Right Angle Template that was phenolic with an aluminum fence and his offset subbase.
 

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Wow, $679. Mine was free. I could have added strips at the edge to keep it running along the edge and it would still do the same thing for free.
I think that's white gold. $180-200 for the router and $480 for the jig? Now that Chic! Can't use this as it won't store well in my safe. Where do people get these prices? Ok , I know more coffee.............or meds
 

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Trying to find the jig my friend has for routing 3/4" hardwood flush with the table top surface.
The big is metal with a phenolic base. The porter cable router is offset and there is a round knob to hold the plate flat on the table surface. There is a bearing guide that rolls along the edge of the table as a guide. The router is adjusted so it cuts the wood edging flush with the top.
Anyone know the manufacturer of the jig and where I can find one?
I've never seen the commercial one but I founds plans for a DIY one. If you're interested and it's legal to do I can upload the plans.
 

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if you want to buy the jig, I like to use my CRB7 router jig. It will flush trim, has an offset knob handle, and it can do many other things as well, if you buy it with the options it will do more than the 7 functions of it's original design. Like centered Mortising, laminate trimming, small circle cutting, very large circle cutting, etc.

For making just a router base with an elongated shape and a handle off to the side, I made my own by tracing the original router base outlines onto a piece of 3/8" clear Lexan (Lexan won't shatter or crack) and then took a small can and drew around it to make the curve on the elongated area. Then I just drew in the straight lines between the circles, cut it out on my band saw, and smoothed the edges on my belt sander. I then drilled holes to match the original router base and one hole in the small rounded area to attach a handle. You can use any kind of handle that you like. I chose a large cylindrical handle from the gray drawers at Lowes for my offset handle.

Charley
 

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Trying to find the jig my friend has for routing 3/4" hardwood flush with the table top surface.
The big is metal with a phenolic base. The porter cable router is offset and there is a round knob to hold the plate flat on the table surface. There is a bearing guide that rolls along the edge of the table as a guide. The router is adjusted so it cuts the wood edging flush with the top.
Anyone know the manufacturer of the jig and where I can find one?
Something like this? I had a Sears/Craftsman router 30+ years ago that came with an attachment like this; Loaned the attachment to a co-worker and never got it back, not a big deal as the whole router was stolen when they broke into my shop. You see smaller trim routers with one, but not so common for larger units since pattern bits became so common. Still have an old Stanley trimmer with a stepped base and one of these guides mounted on the bottom, and I think that the Rocky trim router from MLCS still comes with one, never used it as it's pretty loose and wobbly.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/rocky30_router.html
 

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Flush trim bits with bearings are commonly available either below, above or with dual bearings. You can get round or triangular ones (they won't spin, so they won't burn the base material below/above the cut).

These various jigs make sense in terms of keeping the router flat/perpendicular but that can be achieved by making a new base plate.

I must be missing some element of the process, or is it because it's finished wood as opposed to the barbaric MDF that I am so familiar with?
 

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The purpose of the jig in question is to route applied hardwood edges on the top edge so that they are flush with the laminate. It's nearly impossible to glue a hardwood edge on perfectly flush with a laminate countertop.
This jig allows you to install it slightly high, then machine it flush after the glue dries.
 
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