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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a cope and stick router bit set does a nice job on inside of the door frame. These are Shaker doors with a flat panel insert. Made a bunch. Was thinking of putting a router edge on outside just to change up. Good or bad idea? Any suggestion on a edge?
 

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It's your design. I say practice on some scrap and see what you like.

I have used these guys for cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Browse through their catalog and see if you find something you like. You might get some inspiration from the designs they offer. On shaker doors, they usually just ease the outside edge. I have ordered doors with a trim piece cut into the inside of the rails and stiles. You could do that by simply adding small pieces of trim.

Evans Custom Cabinets
Gallery | Evans Cabinet and Door
 

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I have a cope and stick router bit set does a nice job on inside of the door frame. These are Shaker doors with a flat panel insert. Made a bunch. Was thinking of putting a router edge on outside just to change up. Good or bad idea? Any suggestion on a edge?
Hello and welcome Brian. It would be nice if you could post a picture of what you have made. Also what it are you using?
 

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Keep in mind that if you are using European style hinges your options are very limited. They sell a special bit but the best look as far as I'm concerned, is a very very slight round over. If you are not aware of what I am talking about do a test run on a piece and see how close to the edge the hing has to be mounted.
 

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Keep in mind that if you are using European style hinges your options are very limited. They sell a special bit but the best look as far as I'm concerned, is a very very slight round over. If you are not aware of what I am talking about do a test run on a piece and see how close to the edge the hing has to be mounted.
According to a sheet I have from Richelieu the max distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the cup is 6mm and the minimum is 3. When I add 1/4" wood banding to the door the cup hole winds up partially in the banding.
 

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According to a sheet I have from Richelieu the max distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the cup is 6mm and the minimum is 3. When I add 1/4" wood banding to the door the cup hole winds up partially in the banding.
would you be using plywood for the frame? If not why the banding? It would be a shame to build the doors and find out that you couldn't use the hinge you wanted. In addition the sizing of the door has to be done in conjunction with the hinge overlay if not you end up with too little or too much of the cabinet wood showing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am glad I posted on here for your advice. I didn’t even think about the clearance for the Euro hinge. You are right the clearance is to tight do I won’t be doing it.
 

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would you be using plywood for the frame? If not why the banding? It would be a shame to build the doors and find out that you couldn't use the hinge you wanted. In addition the sizing of the door has to be done in conjunction with the hinge overlay if not you end up with too little or too much of the cabinet wood showing.
Sorry Art, I missed this post but what I’ve been adding banding to was melamine vanity doors. I hate the way the taped edges look and wooden banding makes them look a little classier. I did add oak ply with oak banded doors to my kitchen cupboards but I used old school Amerock hinges for them. Besides not liking the look of exposed plies I also like the clean look of no hardware and cutting the finger pull profile into straight ply would look really ugly.
 

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I have a cope and stick router bit set does a nice job on inside of the door frame. These are Shaker doors with a flat panel insert. Made a bunch. Was thinking of putting a router edge on outside just to change up. Good or bad idea? Any suggestion on a edge?
Brian - I've made Shaker doors, with a ogee profile on the inside edge (cope and stick), as well as a clean edge on the inside profile, but on the outside edge I've just eased the sharp corners with a bit of sanding. For my taste, a clean edge on the outside is more aesthetically pleasing, and in my opinion, a profiled outside edge takes away from the Shaker style, but in the end, it's your choice and what pleases you.
 

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I have a cope and stick router bit set does a nice job on inside of the door frame. These are Shaker doors with a flat panel insert. Made a bunch. Was thinking of putting a router edge on outside just to change up. Good or bad idea? Any suggestion on a edge?
Now I know you have some scrap laying around somewhere. Make a test cut or three and see. The hole for the Euro hinge is bored on the inside of the stile...about 3mm from the outer edge. A 35mm (or 1 3/8 inch) forstner bit will do the job. Bore about 1/2 inch or so...maybe a little more. Testing may show that you need adjust where the hole is bored for the hinge to operate properly.

Good luck.
Mike
 

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It's your design. I say practice on some scrap and see what you like.

I have used these guys for cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Browse through their catalog and see if you find something you like. You might get some inspiration from the designs they offer. On shaker doors, they usually just ease the outside edge. I have ordered doors with a trim piece cut into the inside of the rails and stiles. You could do that by simply adding small pieces of trim.

Evans Custom Cabinets
Gallery | Evans Cabinet and Door

Thanks ,mike, I am going to save that link to door edges for future reference.

Catalog | Evans Cabinet and Door

It says that "C" and "D" are not suitable for European hinges.

Herb
 
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