Hello and welcome Brian. It would be nice if you could post a picture of what you have made. Also what it are you using?
According to a sheet I have from Richelieu the max distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the cup is 6mm and the minimum is 3. When I add 1/4" wood banding to the door the cup hole winds up partially in the banding.
would you be using plywood for the frame? If not why the banding? It would be a shame to build the doors and find out that you couldn't use the hinge you wanted. In addition the sizing of the door has to be done in conjunction with the hinge overlay if not you end up with too little or too much of the cabinet wood showing.
Sorry Art, I missed this post but what I’ve been adding banding to was melamine vanity doors. I hate the way the taped edges look and wooden banding makes them look a little classier. I did add oak ply with oak banded doors to my kitchen cupboards but I used old school Amerock hinges for them. Besides not liking the look of exposed plies I also like the clean look of no hardware and cutting the finger pull profile into straight ply would look really ugly.
Brian - I've made Shaker doors, with a ogee profile on the inside edge (cope and stick), as well as a clean edge on the inside profile, but on the outside edge I've just eased the sharp corners with a bit of sanding. For my taste, a clean edge on the outside is more aesthetically pleasing, and in my opinion, a profiled outside edge takes away from the Shaker style, but in the end, it's your choice and what pleases you.
Now I know you have some scrap laying around somewhere. Make a test cut or three and see. The hole for the Euro hinge is bored on the inside of the stile...about 3mm from the outer edge. A 35mm (or 1 3/8 inch) forstner bit will do the job. Bore about 1/2 inch or so...maybe a little more. Testing may show that you need adjust where the hole is bored for the hinge to operate properly.
