I purchased an ELU 3304 plunge router off of craigslist and also got a no-name router table. However, looking at the router base, it doesn't appear to have any mounting holes drilled (nothing beneath that sticker). Checking the manual online, it also looks like I am missing the sub-base. The previous owner had adhered a slick sticker to the bottom, presumably in place of the sub-base.
I'm pretty new to routing, so I'm trying to understand how I could mount this to a table. I could remove the throat plate and use those screw holes, but there are only 2, which doesn't seem very stable, and not sure I sure be using the throat plate anyway. Also, not sure what the other 2 holes in the throat plate are for.
Any info about this tool or how to mount it would be appreciated.
Welcome to the forum. 1st thing I would do is look in the manual or do an internet search to see if a sub-base is available for that router. I suspect you don't have the complete setup and the missing part is likely the problem but keep in mind that when a router is usually mounted to a table the sub base is removed and the metal or cast makes contact with the table. Other than that I can't tell you much as I have no idea what that router actually looks like but there should be information available if from no other source then the maker. Also make sure you have the manual found here.
those older routers did not have a drilled base, as they were mounted into Elu's own table using the guide rods for the side fence (parallel guide). The rods were removable from the side fence, but some models may have been supplied with an extra set.
Check whether the "no-name" table is not actually the Elu table, in which case it will have housings for the rods. If not, you will have to drill holes in the base yourself - just avoid sensitive areas where template guides or dust extractors might fit, and where you will be able to tighten the nuts without having to fracture and reset your fingers into a swan-neck first.
I had to do the same with a Hitachi of even older vintage, 40 years on and no problems (two holes only).
Or you may want to engineer housings for the guide rods - I tried that initially, but then went with the simpler option above.
Apologies for the quality of the images - quick photos of the original user manual for a MOF 96, over 40 years old, and fading.
BTW, as Steve says the sub base is not needed for table use, and is in any case replaceable. You can make your own if you cannot source a spare - the original was nothing special.
P.S. You may be able to use the two screw holes for the guide bushing carrier (visible in your photo - the ones with the machine screws in them, not the other two), which you would not usually need when table-mounted.
Thanks for the very helpful info. I think what I may try to do is mount using the bushing carrier screws and use the guide rails for reinforcement. I've contacted a machine shop about drilling and tapping additional holes, but it's probably going to come out as more expensive than just replacing the router (though I hate to see working tools go to waste).
My current table is drilled with a 3 hole pattern that I see is common on a lot of routers today, so I'll probably have to re-drill or replace that as well. When I bought it, it also came with a wide square base plate and a screw-on guide bushing, but the bushing is too large to fit the plate on the router (in the photo), so this lot seems to be a collection of mismatched parts.
Also, I wanted to ask if I really need a base plate at all. That peeling sticker shown in the photo is sort of slick on the bottom, and the base is solid (except for 2 holes lined up with the plunge rods), so I get the impression that's how he was using it. I'm not sure what function the sub-base really provides beyond attaching bushings and giving you a smooth surface, but if this router has that already, can I use it without a sub-base (not in a table setting). Also, a couple of my router bits are just slightly too big to fit through the bushing carrier hole (1/2" rabbet which is ~30mm in diameter). The router manual says 30mm is the max bit size allowable. Can I simply remove the bushing carrier and use them, or do I need to construct a sub-base with a wider hole?
in your case the sub-base does not mount the the guide bushings, you already have the bushing carrier in place (undo the two machine screws and remove the round disk, to see what I mean). The bushing carrier is not needed for ordinary use, and will be an obstacle to bit changing if table-mounted. I am not sure of the diameter of the hole in the main base- you will need to measure once you take out the bushing carrier.
The sub-base is essentially there to provide a smooth, non-marring, non-staining surface in contact with the wood. A lot of the older machines had a stick-on piece of plastic laminate, nothing fancy. I guess the guy's slick tape would be good enough. For table mounting, not needed at all, hence later models have an easily-removed, screw-mounted sub-base.
The max recommended diameter of bit is not only limited by the size of the opening in the base, but also the designed limits of the motor - a larger diameter will need more hp to spin at the same speed. But it sounds like your rabbeting bit is pretty close to the max, so should be no problem.
Those Elu routers were joyful machines, in Europe and UK they are still highly regarded. Either ditch the table, or reserve the Elu for hand-held tasks and get a higher hp router for table use
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