From another forum elsewhere, but by our member mailee (with thanks):
Edit: Having posted this I've since had a look at both a MOF96-02 typ 2 and a MOF96 typ 1 and there are detail differences. Oli posted problems below, so I'll add to the above gen:
1. The typ 1 uses the baseplate to retain the ball/spring detente (like the Festool OF1010 does) but the typ 2 has a solid casting. So you may or may not see the detence ball/spring when you take the phenolic plate off
2. Later tools seem to use a pin to retain the spring in the thicker column so as Oli says this needs to be drifted out. It isn't there on my type 1 tool but it is there on the typ 2
3. In order to get the circlip off the top of the thin (left hand) post it is necessary to plunge the router, otherwice you can't see it.
I have added this small but vital point to mailee's original instructions in bold so it is obvious.
From memory that all seems spot on (it's about 8 or 9 years since I needed to do one), but I'd add that the phenolic baseplate also retains the ball and spring detente for the turret which are easily lost. Please note these instructions are also a good guide for the deWalt DW613/DW614/DW615, Elu 3303/3304 (USA), Elu MOF96/MOF96e(aka MOF96-02), Black & Decker SR100, Trend T5, Perles OF808, AEG OF50 (not the later OFS50 which was a Metabo design), Virutex FR77C/FR78C, etc which are all basically similar having originally come out of either the Scintilla factory in Switzerland (AEG, Elu, some deWalt, B&D) or the Perles factory, although these days I understand they're made in Mexico, Italy or Eastern Europe depending on which on you have. The main difference will be the presence/absence of the speed controller/sensor depending if the model is variable or fixed speed and some variation in the design of the handles (ELU USA models)mailee said:
Edit: Having posted this I've since had a look at both a MOF96-02 typ 2 and a MOF96 typ 1 and there are detail differences. Oli posted problems below, so I'll add to the above gen:
1. The typ 1 uses the baseplate to retain the ball/spring detente (like the Festool OF1010 does) but the typ 2 has a solid casting. So you may or may not see the detence ball/spring when you take the phenolic plate off
2. Later tools seem to use a pin to retain the spring in the thicker column so as Oli says this needs to be drifted out. It isn't there on my type 1 tool but it is there on the typ 2
3. In order to get the circlip off the top of the thin (left hand) post it is necessary to plunge the router, otherwice you can't see it.
I have added this small but vital point to mailee's original instructions in bold so it is obvious.