I would think so. I can use a horizontal panel raiser on mine, just don't overload it. If necessary, you can shim your fence so it nibbles away instead of trying to take the whole cut at once. Adding shims to your fence instead of moving it for each cut keeps your final dimension constant.
Check the router's user's manual for maximum bit diameter and cut length for your router. I can't speak for other brands, but the Freud FT1700 2-1/4HP router will run our new wide crown molding bits with no problem. We cut the bulk of the profile in one or two passes and make a final light pass to remove the ripples.
I have 4 vertical crown molding bits that I use all the time and I use a
P.C. 1 3/4HP and it works just fine, I do make one pass then make one more to get a nice clean cut.
Boxer here's a tip, the bit below works great for making picture frames,you may want to check it out.
Picture Frame Rabbet Bits
2 flute, carbide tipped bits with totally enclosed ball bearings.
Designed for making custom picture frames or mirrors. The double stepped rabbet will cut either a 1/8" x 3/8" or 1/4" x 3/8" rabbet for your glass or mirror, and an additional 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet for your artwork and backing board. Use for 1” or larger stock.
Just one more tip Boxer
You will see a snapshot (see Below) of a quick and easy jig to make that will let your moldings come out true and clean.
The key to this jig is the Push Block, it will keep your fingers back out of the way and keep the stock true to the fence.
Just make one pass on all the stock then reset the fence and the support fence and your done.
You may need to set the out feed fence out by just a bit (1/32") the norm because some of the moding bits will remove the edge off the stock when you make the pass,that's when the jig comes in handy.
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