I totally agree but, I've found that a 1/2" guide bushing in my table works very well and the only way to cut into the jig is by tilting the jig during use.1. i really dont like the way they have the bearings on the bit, they are just loose and move around. you have to really make sure the bit isnt to far out or you run the risk of the bearings missing the guides. this is especially bad on the router table
ok after watching the videos a few more times i realized what i was doing wrong. i didnt realize you were supposed to reset the depth gauge before routing the pins
this is my second attempt at dovetails after getting things figured out.
View attachment 30250
not perfect but i think its pretty good for the 2nd try. on the first try i had the boards misaligned. the dovetails fit fine but the boards didnt match up.
couple things about this jig.
1. i really dont like the way they have the bearings on the bit, they are just loose and move around. you have to really make sure the bit isnt to far out or you run the risk of the bearings missing the guides. this is especially bad on the router table
2. the bearings are 1/2" same as the dovetail bit so there is no room for mistakes. if you arent really careful theres a chance the bit could hit the aluminum of the jig. DAMHIKT!!!
Thanks to all who responded to my original thread. Amazon do not ship to Australia at present, so they told me and I have had no response from General and a couple of others. I am still interested in the EZ Pro.
Cheers for now,
hey bob were you referring to me? (mike w?)
i picked up a longer cutting length DT bit to do through DTs with but it had paint on the shaft like you mention so the bearings wouldnt slide far enough. i sanded the paint off but there was an actually lip in the metal that the bearings wouldnt clear. i plan on using a guide bushing like you mention just havent had time.
i also ordered another bit intended for use in the leigh jigs that im hoping will work. i really want to use the bit in my trim router which of course doesnt accept guide bushings. i cant use the jig on my router table
Which model do you have and what is the largest OD at the nut? Somewhere in my future are some routed trays and I'd like to be able to go deeper than the bowl bits alone permit but I'd want the extension collet nut "sheltered" behind the bit. I've seen bit to 1-1/4"D.
I have 3 of them, 1/4",1/2" and one that will fit the 1/4" routers to take on the 1/2" shank bits...
When the 1 1/2" guide is in place they fit just right...
That's good news, but are they smaller than the bit? Otherwise the collet extender will hit the side of the bowl if I try to plunge deep into the dish. My Ryobi permits the collet to plunge deep enough to put the collet flush with the bottom of a 1-1/2" guide. I don't like to "choke up" on bits.
Maybe you can help me out!
I just bought an ez pro dovetail jig, after a little frustration I figured out the half blind joints. Now I'm working on full dovetails. I'm cutting into 3/4" wood the problem I'm getting is one end produces round tails they fit together I just think it looks funny to have triangle ends on one side and round ends on the other. Is it the jig? Any Ideas?????
There is an example of this on the ez pro box and the website.