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yeah i know. i find it really hard to believe i tightened it enough to warp it, but since they mention not over tightening the clamps like 10 times in the manual im curious how much is to much

bobj3, i dont quite get the part in the instructions about face jointing, do you know what they are trying to demonstrate?
 

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ok after watching the videos a few more times i realized what i was doing wrong. i didnt realize you were supposed to reset the depth gauge before routing the pins

this is my second attempt at dovetails after getting things figured out.

Wood Chopsticks Hardwood Plywood Wood stain

not perfect but i think its pretty good for the 2nd try. on the first try i had the boards misaligned. the dovetails fit fine but the boards didnt match up.

couple things about this jig.

1. i really dont like the way they have the bearings on the bit, they are just loose and move around. you have to really make sure the bit isnt to far out or you run the risk of the bearings missing the guides. this is especially bad on the router table

2. the bearings are 1/2" same as the dovetail bit so there is no room for mistakes. if you arent really careful theres a chance the bit could hit the aluminum of the jig. DAMHIKT!!!
 

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1. i really dont like the way they have the bearings on the bit, they are just loose and move around. you have to really make sure the bit isnt to far out or you run the risk of the bearings missing the guides. this is especially bad on the router table
I totally agree but, I've found that a 1/2" guide bushing in my table works very well and the only way to cut into the jig is by tilting the jig during use.

The 2 bearings seemed to be a fast fix by someone trying to get it on the market too fast. They are just too un-predictable and using a stop collar, (at least for me) seems redundant.
Just my opinions. I really like this jig though.
 

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Hi Mike

You can pick up some lock rings/collets to keep them in place,25 cents items..
:)

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ok after watching the videos a few more times i realized what i was doing wrong. i didnt realize you were supposed to reset the depth gauge before routing the pins

this is my second attempt at dovetails after getting things figured out.

View attachment 30250

not perfect but i think its pretty good for the 2nd try. on the first try i had the boards misaligned. the dovetails fit fine but the boards didnt match up.

couple things about this jig.

1. i really dont like the way they have the bearings on the bit, they are just loose and move around. you have to really make sure the bit isnt to far out or you run the risk of the bearings missing the guides. this is especially bad on the router table

2. the bearings are 1/2" same as the dovetail bit so there is no room for mistakes. if you arent really careful theres a chance the bit could hit the aluminum of the jig. DAMHIKT!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks to all who responded to my original thread. Amazon do not ship to Australia at present, so they told me and I have had no response from General and a couple of others. I am still interested in the EZ Pro.
Cheers for now,
Bob (bobmac0825).
 

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For Mike Wingate

Just some snapshots
Just a note,,,,,you can put down a coat or two of hvy.spray paint to lock the bearing in place on the shaft,
just tape off the shaft and the cutter and give it a good coat of paint,you can also do the same thing to the shaft to mark a stop point on the shaft for easy replacement of the bit in the same spot every time :)


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Thanks to all who responded to my original thread. Amazon do not ship to Australia at present, so they told me and I have had no response from General and a couple of others. I am still interested in the EZ Pro.
Cheers for now,
Bob (bobmac0825).

Bob,

as you are in Australia, go for the Gifkins jig.

I have two and they are very easy to set up and use. Even for a novice like myself)

James
 

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Just one more jig,, to hold the screws in the cap dead center..:) once the resin is setup the cap is push out the hole in the bottom plate..

Very quick way to make knobs :)

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Hi Mike W.

Just to add a note..you don't need to use the lock collet and the bearing if you don't want to,just use your brass guide ( 1/2" OD ) works just as well, it fact it works better than the bearings.. :) just pop it in the router or the router table and your set...this way you don't need to fool with the bearing coming off the bit..or moving up or down on the bit :)
I also suggest you pick up one the Inca dovetail bits they are longer than the norm, about 1" longer than the norm..you need all you can get in the router table..

I use the MLCS Router Collet Extension.. my Freud router shaft lock is right at the bottom/top so it's hard to get my hand on it when it's all the way up..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html


I will note this is a great little dovetail jig, it's snap to put in blind dovetails and it's only 40.oo bucks in the states from HD and other outlets.. :)
They are a bit on the cheap side they only give you 4 knobs screws and you need 6 the norm and the dovetail bit is a bit short. but that's is easy fix..:)
Now I'm looking for some rubber tips off the bow and arrow games , Kmart/Target/Toys are Us, for 8.oo bucks) to use on the screws I made...but the tee nuts work well also..


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hey bob were you referring to me? (mike w?)

i picked up a longer cutting length DT bit to do through DTs with but it had paint on the shaft like you mention so the bearings wouldnt slide far enough. i sanded the paint off but there was an actually lip in the metal that the bearings wouldnt clear. i plan on using a guide bushing like you mention just havent had time.

i also ordered another bit intended for use in the leigh jigs that im hoping will work. i really want to use the bit in my trim router which of course doesnt accept guide bushings. i cant use the jig on my router table
 

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HI Mike

Sorry ...Yes, I must have a AU. type keyboard ..LOL

" trim router " you can fix that error easy, same with the router table..:)

http://cgi.ebay.com/16-pc-8mm-Shank...ViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item20ae544bd6



hey bob were you referring to me? (mike w?)

i picked up a longer cutting length DT bit to do through DTs with but it had paint on the shaft like you mention so the bearings wouldnt slide far enough. i sanded the paint off but there was an actually lip in the metal that the bearings wouldnt clear. i plan on using a guide bushing like you mention just havent had time.

i also ordered another bit intended for use in the leigh jigs that im hoping will work. i really want to use the bit in my trim router which of course doesnt accept guide bushings. i cant use the jig on my router table
 

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I use the MLCS Router Collet Extension.. my Freud router shaft lock is right at the bottom/top so it's hard to get my hand on it when it's all the way up..

Router Collet Extension and review


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BJ,

Which model do you have and what is the largest OD at the nut? Somewhere in my future are some routed trays and I'd like to be able to go deeper than the bowl bits alone permit but I'd want the extension collet nut "sheltered" behind the bit. I've seen bit to 1-1/4"D.
 

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Hi Jim

I have 3 of them, 1/4",1/2" and one that will fit the 1/4" routers to take on the 1/2" shank bits...

When the 1 1/2" guide is in place they fit just right...


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BJ,

Which model do you have and what is the largest OD at the nut? Somewhere in my future are some routed trays and I'd like to be able to go deeper than the bowl bits alone permit but I'd want the extension collet nut "sheltered" behind the bit. I've seen bit to 1-1/4"D.
 

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That's good news, but are they smaller than the bit? Otherwise the collet extender will hit the side of the bowl if I try to plunge deep into the dish. My Ryobi permits the collet to plunge deep enough to put the collet flush with the bottom of a 1-1/2" guide. I don't like to "choke up" on bits.
Hi Jim

I have 3 of them, 1/4",1/2" and one that will fit the 1/4" routers to take on the 1/2" shank bits...

When the 1 1/2" guide is in place they fit just right...


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Hi Jim

They both will work with the bowl bits :)
" but are they smaller than the bit?" yes ,take a look at the link below the 1/4" shank works the best for me..if I'm going 2" deep in the stock..

MLCS dish cutters, V-groove, sign lettering router bits, router letter template set


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That's good news, but are they smaller than the bit? Otherwise the collet extender will hit the side of the bowl if I try to plunge deep into the dish. My Ryobi permits the collet to plunge deep enough to put the collet flush with the bottom of a 1-1/2" guide. I don't like to "choke up" on bits.
 

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Hey guys,
Maybe you can help me out!
I just bought an ez pro dovetail jig, after a little frustration I figured out the half blind joints. Now I'm working on full dovetails. I'm cutting into 3/4" wood the problem I'm getting is one end produces round tails they fit together I just think it looks funny to have triangle ends on one side and round ends on the other. Is it the jig? Any Ideas?????
There is an example of this on the ez pro box and the website.

Thanks
 

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Hi John

It's the way the jig is made..you will have round tails on the through type.

The EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Instructional Videos


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Hey guys,
Maybe you can help me out!
I just bought an ez pro dovetail jig, after a little frustration I figured out the half blind joints. Now I'm working on full dovetails. I'm cutting into 3/4" wood the problem I'm getting is one end produces round tails they fit together I just think it looks funny to have triangle ends on one side and round ends on the other. Is it the jig? Any Ideas?????
There is an example of this on the ez pro box and the website.

Thanks
 
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