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Thanks Bob,

I guess I will deal with. I'm just glad it is the jig and not me.

Here's another question for you, I'm pretty new to using a router, when using this jig I seem to be splitting the wood quite a bit. I'm using 3/4 pine, I've tried removing some of the wood before the dovetail cut but it seems to still be doing it. Is it a speed issue or just the wood, wondering if there is little tricks I don't know about.

Thanks
John
 

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Hi John

It's the wood, use hardwood, Poplar works well but don't forget this jig is for blind dovetails.. and you must use the LONGER dovetail bits for the through dovetails.. 7 or 8 deg.bits that are long as the wood you want to use ( 3/4" ) or longer on the cutters.


=======

Thanks Bob,

I guess I will deal with. I'm just glad it is the jig and not me.

Here's another question for you, I'm pretty new to using a router, when using this jig I seem to be splitting the wood quite a bit. I'm using 3/4 pine, I've tried removing some of the wood before the dovetail cut but it seems to still be doing it. Is it a speed issue or just the wood, wondering if there is little tricks I don't know about.

Thanks
John
 

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Hi John

Your welcome, also use a backer board, 1/4" thick MDF works well..gives the softwood a bit more support when the bit comes out of the pass..

=

Thanks again. I got a longer 8 degree bit and a bushing for it to do the full cuts.
 

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Avoiding Rounded Edges On Through Dovetail Joints?

I would like to run an idea I had past you all regarding how to avoid those rounded edges for through dovetail joints. Now, I don’t have the jig yet but after watching the video several times it occurred to me that you could just place a small piece of wood between the jig and the board you are working on (on the opposite side of the board from the screw clamps/clamp pads). This should push your work piece back just a little so that the edge of the board is behind the rounded edge at the tip of the jig. This way your bit will make straight passes and should allow your piece to keep the boards original square edges typical of traditional through dovetail joints. Make sense? Any thoughts?

~ evenstill
 

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HI evenstill

It's not a big deal to have one set with round (ends) corners it will lock up just fine..

The norm you need two router bits to put in THROUGH dovetails ( pattern bit and a dovetail bit) but not with EZ dovetail jig, one bit will do both parts of the joint...that's a real plus...for the EZ jig.. :) and it can use 3/4" thick stock and 1/2" stock for the same dovetail joint.. :)

CUTTING A FULL THROUGH DOVETAIL JOINT

*This requires a dovetail cutter bit with a depth greater than
the wood you are cutting. (8 deg.dovetail bit, longer than the norm.)

The steps required to cut a full through joint (FIG. 15) are very similar
to those described in the previous section CUTTING A HALF BLIND
DOVETAIL JOINT, with the following exceptions:
1. When cutting the “TAILS” (FIG. 15) portion of the joint, set the bit
depth to slightly greater than the thickness of the “PINS” board.
This will ensure that the tails are slightly proud when fit and can
be sanded down for a flush fit. (FIG. 16)
2. When cutting the “PINS” portion of the joint, set the cutter depth
deeper (tighter) first and adjust to the desired joint fit.
CUTTING JOINTS WIDER THAN 6"
Joints over 6" wide must be cut in multiple
segments. To align the jig with the previous cut,
the aligning tool must be used.
1. Move the wood in the jig and position the last slot from the
previous cut in the last channel of the jig.
2. Loosely clamp the wood in the jig.
3. Insert the aligning tool into the slot to properly center the wood
with the jig. (FIG. 17)
4. Tighten the thumbscrews, (CAUTION: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN),
and continue cutting.
5. Repeat as necessary.
FIG. 10 in the manual...

http://www.generaltools.com/assets/images/manuals/860_DOVETAILER_MANUAL .pdf

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-Dovetail-R...575651188?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20baf63574

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QtPXAHiVWk

Keller dovetail jig below ▼
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2l3zeWLD20

========

I would like to run an idea I had past you all regarding how to avoid those rounded edges for through dovetail joints. Now, I don’t have the jig yet but after watching the video several times it occurred to me that you could just place a small piece of wood between the jig and the board you are working on (on the opposite side of the board from the screw clamps/clamp pads). This should push your work piece back just a little so that the edge of the board is behind the rounded edge at the tip of the jig. This way your bit will make straight passes and should allow your piece to keep the boards original square edges typical of traditional through dovetail joints. Make sense? Any thoughts?

~ evenstill
 

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Hi Gary

I'm on the list and I'm going to get one ASAP ,looks like a neat jig, the only thing I don't like about,, it's going to be 149.oo SLPrice :(

Amazon.com: General Tools 870 E Z Pro Mortise and Tenon Jig: Home Improvement

‪General - Mortise & Tenon Jig‬‏ - YouTube

‪General Tool E-Z Pro Mortice and Tenon Jig AWFS Show BiIly Carmen Product News Report‬‏ - YouTube

====

Just as a side note:::::
Hey John note the tool in the snapshot, I knew I should have posted that one long ago, I use one just like it to get the brass ring nut tight in my router :)

I saw it when I drilled a hole for the nylock screws (1/8" for the one I have.)

========

Anyone know anthing about the EZpro mortise and tenon jig made by same company also looks interestng?
 

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====

Just as a side note:::::
Hey John note the tool in the snapshot, I knew I should have posted that one long ago, I use one just like it to get the brass ring nut tight in my router :)

I saw it when I drilled a hole for the nylock screws (1/8" for the one I have.)

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Hi Bj - Yeah, I spotted the spanner. I may just have one of those in one of my "miscellaneous" boxes. Got a lot of those boxes though:fie: All the ones I can locate fairly quickly got the points going the wrong way. Bicycle tools.:)
 

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Park Tool HCW-5 Lock Ring Spanner | eBay


Just as a side note,,,,I'm into brass guides as many know and I could not get my head around how they can use a 1 1/8" and a 1 1/4" OD guide in a 1 3/16" PC type guide . then I saw the way they got around that with a threaded brass stem,very smart way to get the job done.. :)

But they must not know that you can buy 1 1/2" brass OD guides..just need a base plate to take on the bigger guides.
(OP and Lee Valley type) or you can also use the HarrySin type guides,,

========.
 

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Hi Gary

The only thing I know about, some time this year.

"Coming soon! This item is currently in production and expected to ship by end of August. You are welcome to place your order and be the first to receive this product as they arrive."


http://www.generaltools.com/assets/images/ProductManuals/870Manual-FIN-032811.pdf

http://www.generaltools.com/New-E-Z-Pro-Mortise-Tenon-Jig_b_3.html


http://www.generaltools.com/870--EZ-ProTM-MORTISE-AND-TENON-JIG_p_1295.html
=======

I'll wait to price drops have you got a ship date?
 

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If they run true to form, it will be substantially cheaper in the store rather than buy from their website. The dovetail jig is $60 on the website and $40 at Home Depot. I think the digital caliper is about 30% cheaper at HD also. :)
 

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Can I cut through dovetails in 3/4" thick boards? Will it need a different router bit and a guide bushing? I want to do this on some 3/4" thick Poplar.
 

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Welcome to the forum @plantdude

just to let you know this thread was last answered in 2011. You may or may not receive a reply, and would suggest starting a new thread with your query if no replies are forthcoming. Enjoy the forum.
 

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@plantdude , do you have a dovetail jig? All the jigs I have seem will make a through dovetail in 3/4" timber.

I use a Gifkins jig,
 

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"Will it need a different router bit and a guide bushing? "

depends on the jig?
 
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