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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2x4 and a couple of dados allowed me to extend my F-Clamps. It works well as long as the area where the block joins the clamps is open (like the area between drawer sides).
 

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Can you slide the screw heads off and flip them? Usually, there's a pin on the end you can drive out to slide the head off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A similar block could be made for the (Irwin style) quick squeeze clamps, where the jaw would be flipped in the block to provide more clearance so the block would clear the bottom side of a drawer. I hope this explanation makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quick Clamp Extender

Update: My take on quick Clamp Extender. Uses 1/2" x 2"x 11" stock with one dado and 2 holes to join the bars. The dado is snug to the bar and 3/8" on the jaw side. It works well and could be used to attach multiple bars of the same brand. The pictures show two brands of quick clamps. If I make more, they will be made of 1/2" mdf material (plenty strong).
 

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OK, now I get it. The first set of pictures made no sense. The second set, with the different set up, makes sense. When I needed longer clamps I just made cam clamps, easy to make, cost probably less than 50 cents each, fast to make, and work well.
 

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Update: My take on quick Clamp Extender. Uses 1/2" x 2"x 11" stock with one dado and 2 holes to join the bars. The dado is snug to the bar and 3/8" on the jaw side. It works well and could be used to attach multiple bars of the same brand. The pictures show two brands of quick clamps. If I make more, they will be made of 1/2" mdf material (plenty strong).
I think you have created a monster! :grin:

I love it when the creative juices get flowing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mike, Yes, a simple monster...that will get used. The first time I needed something like this was when I made a bunk bed (for my Grandson)and needed to pull all the mortice and tenons together at the same time. What I did then was just bolt the ends of quick clamps together to use them. It worked, but as I pulled the parts together on each end, in the middle became loose, and came crashing to the floor. Now several years later, while assembling a large cabinet for my shop, I needed to pull everything together at the same time and found some of my clamps were too short by 1/2". In total that took 22 clamps...All at the same time. It worked out quite well...and I agree, it was a monster!
 

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I can clamp anything up to about 4' with my Bessey clamps, When I need to go longer I resort to my old pipe clamps and pipe couplings. The longest pipe clamp that I ever assembled was almost 12' long, made up from the pipes of 4 shorter clamps and pipe couplings. I don't have many F clamps, so the pipe clamps come out of retirement for needs like this.

Charley
 

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In case you run out of short clamps to make a big one, don't forget the use of a strap (if the assembly allows it)...tie downs work great...

...good idea, Gary...will remember for next time...
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A strap would have worked in the case of making the bunk bed, and I considered it. I decided against it because as the strap tightens, it tends to try to roll the parts over the long distances when assembling the headboard/footboard. Clamps were a better choice for that project. The wood also would have to be protected against (rope burn) the strap sliding as it is reeled in. Straps definetly have their place with proper protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can clamp anything up to about 4' with my Bessey clamps, When I need to go longer I resort to my old pipe clamps and pipe couplings. The longest pipe clamp that I ever assembled was almost 12' long, made up from the pipes of 4 shorter clamps and pipe couplings. I don't have many F clamps, so the pipe clamps come out of retirement for needs like this.

Charley
Charley,

I agree, I have pipe clamps, but there are times that the jaws reach is just not enough. I was making a cabinet using 1/2" sheets of plywood that were bowed slightly and needed to pull the bow into dados for the shelves while at the same time have enough clearance to slide the face frame (tonge and groove) into place. F-clamps allow this because of how they reach (because of the shape of the jaws). It allowed me to pull on the plywood sides, and still provided room to install the face frame. Fully glued everything became straight after drying. The f-clamps worked great for this but since I needed so many longer clamps (because I ran out) this was my solution.

I wish I took pictures.
 

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why not use a chain link, D link, or a steel ring???
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
why not use a chain link, D link, or a steel ring???
I suppose that would work, or just hook the clamps together. I just wanted to be better prepared, so the next time... it would be available...and would be less cumbersome. Works for me.
 
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