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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After turning a nice piece of oak into kindling with my router table today when the feather board popped out of the slot, decided that I have to do something about the situation. This particular one was a commercially available plastic version - relatively inexpensive - but now suspect. I did a bit of Googling and find that even a couple of my earlier homemade versions, now gone, were probably better then the current plastic one I have - but that there really MAY be better plastic ones available. I'm not adverse to making my own but my earlier ones were pine and possibly something like a long fiber wood such as ash or hickory might be better. I'll want to use these on both my table saw as well as the router table. Folks with experience - point me in a way that will work
 

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I have several that I bought. I don't have the time to make them. Too many other things to do. :)
 

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I did a bit of Googling and find that even a couple of my earlier homemade versions, now gone, were probably better then the current plastic one I have - but that there really MAY be better plastic ones available. I'm not adverse to making my own but my earlier ones were pine and possibly something like a long fiber wood such as ash or hickory might be better. I'll want to use these on both my table saw as well as the router table. Folks with experience - point me in a way that will work
Hi Dave

As they say on Monty Python, "....and now for something completely different":



The picture above is a "Mickey Mouse" router table (as BJ would call it) sold by deWalt in the EU (called a DE6900, but I don't think you can get it in the USA). It was designed in the 1970s by Elu and it works really well partly because it comes with one Shaw (SUVA) guard - the wooden piece with the leaf spring on the back. In reality it mimics the Shaw guards we have had since the 1930s in the UK on industrial spindle moulders (industrial shapers). It comprises a beech or maple block which is "skewered" onto a threaded rod. The rod passes through a leaf spring on which is also a nut to both increase or decrease the tension on the spring AND to fix the device onto an angle bracketed frame. This frame in turn is attached to the router table or fence. This design has several advantages over a featherboard; the pressure can be accurately adjusted and is easy to control from extremely soft to very hard (I tend to find that featherboards are all or nothing), the pressure pad can be changed to a shaped one or a rebated one to give extra support on pre-shaped or rebated workpieces (or if using two, one from the side, the other from the top to apply pressure to very small section pieces safely.

Whilst you could make this out of pine or an open-grained aterial ike oak or ash, close-grained timbers such as beech and maple tend to perform much, much better

Just though I'd chuck something a bit different into the mix

Regards

Phil

BTW if you are interested I could always pull mine apart and measure the parts for you, or publish an exploded component photo so you can see just how it's made. If interested, please PM me
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike - I understand about the time. That's why I retired ..... now have even less with more honey-dos added to my platter

Phil - why does the UK get all the 'interesting' gadgets that seldom if ever appear here:D

I'm not going to ask you to pull your tensioning device (for lack of a better term) apart - as that time bug-a-boo noted above. A component scan will be great for me and probably others to look at and maybe come up with a workable alternative. I would bet that a couple of coil springs on a platen with a center Acme thread for major adjustment Those 2 springs on either side, individually adjustable - along with mounting hardware would work in lieu of a leaf spring. A fairly light duty leaf spring might be hard to source. Hmmmmm - love fabrication projects - but again, time as the current honey do list includes a new bath tub and surround(arrived this morning), kitchen counter tops, floor and new lighting.
 

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Dewalt DE6900 Type 1 Router Table Spare Parts | Miles Tool & Machinery Centre

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Mike - I understand about the time. That's why I retired ..... now have even less with more honey-dos added to my platter

Phil - why does the UK get all the 'interesting' gadgets that seldom if ever appear here:D

I'm not going to ask you to pull your tensioning device (for lack of a better term) apart - as that time bug-a-boo noted above. A component scan will be great for me and probably others to look at and maybe come up with a workable alternative. I would bet that a couple of coil springs on a platen with a center Acme thread for major adjustment Those 2 springs on either side, individually adjustable - along with mounting hardware would work in lieu of a leaf spring. A fairly light duty leaf spring might be hard to source. Hmmmmm - love fabrication projects - but again, time as the current honey do list includes a new bath tub and surround(arrived this morning), kitchen counter tops, floor and new lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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You're Welcome Dave

You can buy one but it's from the other side of the pond ,that can be a real downer.

DIYTOOLS.COM: DeWalt DE6900 Router Accessories
Oh my, spare parts are not inexpensive!! Especially figured at the current exchange rate (.63 sterling to 1 USD)


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Thanks for the parts breakdown though as it does give me as well as anyone else a general idea of what this gadget does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Really simple to build your own featherboards, but you're the only one whom can decide which avenue to take.
I am all to well aware that I have to make the final decision - and I can go either way. As I said at the beginning, I have a store bought that I'm not overjoyed with and have made a couple from pine in the past. Some of the store boughts I've checked seem just too stiff and the home made ones didn't survive well due to the wood = my fault. If I buy one, two, or more, which ones are the best bang for the buck. If I make a couple, how wide for a good start point? What wood is best? How long should the feathers be cut and at what angle?

What I'm trying to do is not continue making the same mistakes, hence this question as well as others I've posted - and have been helped several time so far by the good folks here
 

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Dave I use Rosseau ones. Besides being built very well the company is A1 to do business with. If you have a problem they fix it....period!
 

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I have numerous feather-boards, wooden and plastic. My preferred ones to use are made by Bench Dog. They are instantly interchangable between table saw and router table - in my case. I have several of those Bench Dog feather boards and honestly never thought of them as expensive. Feather-boards are, in my mind; a two-fold safety device - saving fingers, kickbacks and the workpiece. As someone with OSHA to contend with, I consider them a good deal at twice the price. I also made a table saw fence to support multiple vertical feather-boards. All it takes is lumber, T-Track, multiple feather-boards, bolts, nuts and spacers (to enable the cantilever of said bolts).
I guess if one needed to make their own feather-boards, it could be done easily enough. Also, having seen old-fashioned "hold-backs", I am of the opinion, one could make something similar to what PhilP posted above; yet with metal strap banding. With something like this it would be a simple matter to bend the strap(s) for the preferred amount of pressure.
Above all other considerations, BE SMART by BEING SAFETY-MINDED.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
 

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For me I like the buddies,I have many of the feather boards but not one of them can do the same as the buddies,you can be use them on the table saw/RAS or the router table with just a quick snap..

Woodstock W1104 Board Buddies, Yellow

Woodstock W1104 Board Buddies, Yellow - Amazon.com


Tablesaw Safety Using Brett Guard and Board Buddies - YouTube

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After turning a nice piece of oak into kindling with my router table today when the feather board popped out of the slot, decided that I have to do something about the situation. This particular one was a commercially available plastic version - relatively inexpensive - but now suspect. I did a bit of Googling and find that even a couple of my earlier homemade versions, now gone, were probably better then the current plastic one I have - but that there really MAY be better plastic ones available. I'm not adverse to making my own but my earlier ones were pine and possibly something like a long fiber wood such as ash or hickory might be better. I'll want to use these on both my table saw as well as the router table. Folks with experience - point me in a way that will work
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Duane, Art and Otis. I looked on line at the three different brands you folks recommended with the Rockler and Rousseau probably being the best for my tools - the table saw having a conventional 3/8x3/4 slot and the router table having a combination conventional width plus a T slot. I did see that they offer an adapter for another $11 - $12 per each feather board I'm also thinking that the Bench Dog's non parallel slots might also be a hindrance for adjustments, but of course that's just my observation.

I do appreciate it that you folks took the time to post answers - and now, how will I spend my dollars - wood or plastic?:D ( Probably go both ways now)
 

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I made my own and have not been disappointed.I made them out of "fine pine"(that is what it is called in western NC) and my angles were at 30 degrees. Good luck at whatever you decide to do.
 

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Usually if any of the plastic featherboards fail it's not the featherbuard itself but the hold down. Better miter slot hold downs are available and inexpensive. The ones that come with most sets are not very good.
 

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Tried building but it was a bit tedious for what it was. I ended up buying these:

1407 - D/T FeatherBoard - Milescraft

They came with both 3/4" and 5/8" miter slot anchors as well as t-slot screws. They are a little stiff but they work well enough for me.

GCG
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
While looking at the earlier recommendations on AMAZON, I came across the JessEms which also look pretty decent with a pair about the same price as a pair of the Rockler's

PARALIGN FEATHER BOARDS

Anyone ever use these?
 
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