I found this online, but the link to a tool seller didn't show them. Was this it?
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These are the parts I used for, what I call, a springboard.
I glue and screw the spring to the base on both sides. I use 2 countersunk head machine screws through the runner, 2 washers and 2 knobs to mount it in a miter groove. Adjust it where it is in contact with the material with a little pressure and when the knobs are tightened the countersunk screws spread the sides of the runner and clamps it into the miter slot and holds the base in place.
You can also make these and just glue and screw the spring to the leading edge of the base. The spring can be any length and can be a little thicker (like a single finger feather board).
I glue and screw the spring to the base on both sides. I use 2 countersunk head machine screws through the runner, 2 washers and 2 knobs to mount it in a miter groove. Adjust it where it is in contact with the material with a little pressure and when the knobs are tightened the countersunk screws spread the sides of the runner and clamps it into the miter slot and holds the base in place.
You can also make these and just glue and screw the spring to the leading edge of the base. The spring can be any length and can be a little thicker (like a single finger feather board).
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If you make a lot of featherboards (or just like to make neat jigs), here's an idea for a jig similar to that used for cutting box joints. It does have a limitation on how long the fingers can be cut, based of the max. height of the blade above the saw table.
I can't find a photo of the actual jig (left it in my buddy's shop) but it was similar to that shown in the photo, except on a smaller scale and with the fingers made from Lexan. It was almost as long as the fence on the router table so supported both the infeed and outfeed sides of the part and was perfect for routing the edge on small moldings
I can't find a photo of the actual jig (left it in my buddy's shop) but it was similar to that shown in the photo, except on a smaller scale and with the fingers made from Lexan. It was almost as long as the fence on the router table so supported both the infeed and outfeed sides of the part and was perfect for routing the edge on small moldings
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A little more searching and I found the picture of the featherboard that I posted on this forum a couple of years back. The Lexan finger is basically the same as the one on the Grip-Tite magnetic featherboard (I have an earlier version where the body is made of wood and there is no lever to release the magnet so you wind up prying it off the saw table.
Did find this photo of my magnetic featherboard in use, and the molding I was cutting - you can see the drawback using it when cutting a narrow part, the magnet didn't hit the table ripping this narrow part so I had to use a standard feather board and just use it to keep downward pressure on the part. Have the problem solved now since I replaced the Unifence............
Did find this photo of my magnetic featherboard in use, and the molding I was cutting - you can see the drawback using it when cutting a narrow part, the magnet didn't hit the table ripping this narrow part so I had to use a standard feather board and just use it to keep downward pressure on the part. Have the problem solved now since I replaced the Unifence............
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