Another vote for featherboarding fore and aft, and over the bit if doing just edge profiles, where the bit isn't exposed. Horizontal featherboards are often useful, as well, either secured with clamps or held in the miter track. Just be sure there's space left for the push stick/block.
Any time I can use a featherboard I usually take the fence away and use a safety pin with a bearinged bit. The only exception are big bits and there I use the tall fence with one featherboard immediately above the bit holding the workpiece tight to the table and another just slightly ahead of the bit so the workpiece is pushed tightly to the fence. I also use as much of the long axis of the table as I can to support the workpiece. I have a variety of long push sticks as well.
When I'm using the bearing I raise it slowly and take progressive cuts until I get to the full dimension that I'm looking for. I also don't waste time doing it. But, the more you cut the slower you go.
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