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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I am making a split fence for my newly built router table.
What size should I make the opening for the bit to recess into the area of the fence? I currently have it cut to 2" high and 3" wide. Is this a good size for most bits or should I go larger?
I am a newbie wood worker and am planning on making some raised panel doors but cannot imagine using bits larger than that anytime in the near future.

Is a 2 1/2" dust collector port for the fence large enough?

It is a basic L design with recess for the router bit and a sliding split fence on the face. Planning on 4" fence with 2" sub-fence. I will be adding a T-Track 1/2" above the sub-fence for accessories.

Thoughts?
 

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Hello Trent: I would say that is a great place as far as measurements. If you are making a split fence, you should be able to move the fence apart. That would allow you to adjust the fence for a larger bit. If you make the rt, and the lt hand side able to slide, you can also make the fence adjust out, on the out feed side, that will allow you to plane on it. The adjustment is only 1/32, or so and your edge is planed.Your frnce must line up exactly for most planing operations. Good luck
 

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I made several fence "face plates" that fit over my base fence - made them out of plywood and they are a tight fit onto my base fence without screws. I fit the blank faces and then slowly push the fence into the bit to get a perfect cut-out - works very well with vertical raised panel bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello Trent: I would say that is a great place as far as measurements. If you are making a split fence, you should be able to move the fence apart. That would allow you to adjust the fence for a larger bit. If you make the rt, and the lt hand side able to slide, you can also make the fence adjust out, on the out feed side, that will allow you to plane on it. The adjustment is only 1/32, or so and your edge is planed.Your frnce must line up exactly for most planing operations. Good luck
I have considered this but do not see an easy way to adjust one side in and out other than to just slip a shim in behind it when needed.
 

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The playing deck works, and also, you can mike your card, so you know how much you are removing. You can use anything that is thin, and you can just loosen the retainers that hold the split fence. The cards can be altered so they can slip around the bolts. Aways shim all bolts the same on one fence side, or you will not remove material straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just missed out on getting a free jointer so I will probably have to rely on doing some edge work on the router table. I may just make a slip in template and insert it from the bottom of the fence when needed. I cannot go easily from the top as I will have T-Track above the sub-fence for accessories.

Speaking of T-Track though I was looking at a Jessem table last night and the sliding fences are mounted on T-Track and face adjustable rather than from the back. I am considering doing this by adding T-Track to each side of the fence for the sub-fences to slide into. Seems a reasonable way of setting it up and then I can make a bunch of spare sub-fences with the counter sunk screw holes in them.

On one web site they recommended having a gap below the fence for saw dust to escape into rather than getting in the way of the piece. Any thoughts on that? My inclination is to make them meet the table and just keep things clean as I work.
 

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