Fence for Oak-Park Table

5062 Views 23 Replies 7 Participants Last post by beemerbob, Aug 16, 2008

beemerbob

Discussion Starter · Apr 21, 2007

I mount the table on the end of my table saw. If I want to rout a long piece - 16x36 inch door for a cabinet - I have to move the saw so I can use the Oak-Park Fence. I have to retract the TS blade and remove the blade guard. This doesn't leave a lot of room for mounting a feather board.

I could use a straight edge going the length of the table top, but then how do you make a starter hole in the fence for a piloted roundover bit?

I don't have room in my garage for a dedicated router table.

Does anyone have a plan, idea or a suggestion for a router fence?

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

Joe Lyddon

· #2 · Apr 21, 2007

Can you post a pic to give a better idea?

I'm not sure of it's orientation from the 'users' standpoint.

You can get a longer piece of straight wood, mdf, etc. and just clamp it across the table... like they do it on The Router Workshop.

beemerbob

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 21, 2007

2

Here is a side and top view of my setup.

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challagan

· #4 · Apr 21, 2007 (Edited)

I am not sure I understand the problem here. Are you using the front edge of the table or the back side with hole on the fence? I would get one of the longer fences from oak park and mount it as you have and use the front edge of the fence on the front edge of the table saw. The oak park fences are easy to bury the bit and a custom fit. Just swing the fence into the bit and clamp it back down on the other end. Just have to change the direction of feed of the stock.

Corey

bobj3

· #5 · Apr 21, 2007

Hi Bob

This is what I would

1st. find some MDF or some good and straight 2 x 4 as long as your table,then take a jig saw/hand saw/hole saw and cut a kotch "starter hole" for the size of bit you are going to use.
Then clamp one board to the table top BUT but DON'T use the piloted part of the bit just use it to zero the bit to the fence,with a straight edge.
That's to say DON'T let it rub on the stock when you pass it by.
Then once you have the fence in place clamp the 2nd board down to the table and use it for the feather board so to speak, then once you have clamped down fire up the router and make your pass by the bit.

It's best to make a pass or two, then you will have a nice clean edge on the stock, this can be done by just moving the fence in just a bit on the 1st pass and then reset the two fences on the last pass.

BUT don't move the bit up or down just the fence...

Bj

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beemerbob said:
I mount the table on the end of my table saw. If I want to rout a long piece - 16x36 inch door for a cabinet - I have to move the saw so I can use the Oak-Park Fence. I have to retract the TS blade and remove the blade guard. This doesn't leave a lot of room for mounting a feather board.

I could use a straight edge going the length of the table top, but then how do you make a starter hole in the fence for a piloted roundover bit?

I don't have room in my garage for a dedicated router table.

Does anyone have a plan, idea or a suggestion for a router fence?

See less See more

Woodnut65

· #6 · Apr 21, 2007

Hi: Here's my two cents worth. From looking at the pictures the fence seems to be on the wrong side of the bit. I would have left a space between the saw and the router table so a clamp could be used. You could also get a straight board and mount it along the length of the table. Holes for the bit and the chips from the router can be drilled using a drill press and a fostner bit. Good luck.. Woodnut65

beemerbob

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 21, 2007 (Edited)

Woodnut65 said:
Hi: Here's my two cents worth. From looking at the pictures the fence seems to be on the wrong side of the bit. I would have left a space between the saw and the router table so a clamp could be used. You could also get a straight board and mount it along the length of the table. Holes for the bit and the chips from the router can be drilled using a drill press and a fostner bit. Good luck.. Woodnut65

I think you were looking at the back edge of the fence. The 'working' side of the fence shows a lot of wear and tear and that is the side I used.

beemerbob

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 21, 2007

Bobj3. I routed the edges of four MDF doors and they came out clean as could be.

beemerbob

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 21, 2007

challagan said:
I would get one of the longer fences from oak park and mount it as you have and use the front edge of the fence on the front edge of the table saw. Corey

I bought a new standard fence and a planer fence recently. Didn't see the 'long' fence, but I'll go back and look for it.

bobj3

· #10 · Apr 21, 2007 (Edited)

2

Bob

see below

Bj

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AxlMyk

· #11 · Apr 22, 2007

Woodnut65 said:
Hi: Here's my two cents worth. From looking at the pictures the fence seems to be on the wrong side of the bit.

My thought exactly.. Put the fence on the other side of the bit..

harrysin

· #12 · Apr 22, 2007

Bob, how in the world do you superimpose wording onto the photographs? Armed with such knowledge I could number future photo-shoots so that they could be referred to in the text and make more sense.

Joe Lyddon

· #13 · Apr 22, 2007

harrysin said:
Bob, how in the world do you superimpose wording onto the photographs? Armed with such knowledge I could number future photo-shoots so that they could be referred to in the text and make more sense.

Harry, most programs, that can edit graphic files, can also draw lines & insert typed text in addition to the other editing functions...

MSPaint can even allow one to enter text... It's very common...

Bob will let you know what program he's using... Chances are, you have it on your computer.

bobj3

· #14 · Apr 22, 2007 (Edited)

2

Hi Harry

I use two most of the time, one is Paint.NET and the other one is Jasc Paint SHop Pro. 7.0, the Paint.net Is FREE and it's new with many tools, Paint Shop is not FREE but I have had it for a long time, the 10.1 ver. is about 80.00 bucks and it's worth the money, but FREE is FREE , Paint Shop is so good Corel took it over and put a BIG price tag on the newer ver.
I have the new Corel XL ver. but it's so big that I have not installed it yet.

Paint.NET
http://www.majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=5576
http://www.getpaint.net/download.html

Jasc Paint Shop Pro.
http://apps.corel.com/lp/psppxi/4509/index.html?trkid=psppxidiit1
http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=CorelCom/Layout&c=Product_C1&cid=1152105040688&lc=en

see below
number 6 was done in Paint Shop
number 7 was done in Paint.NET

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Bj

harrysin said:
Bob, how in the world do you superimpose wording onto the photographs? Armed with such knowledge I could number future photo-shoots so that they could be referred to in the text and make more sense.

See less See more

beemerbob

Discussion Starter · #15 · Apr 22, 2007

bobj3 said:
Bob

see below

Bj

Will Try the longer fence. Thanks for the pics.

harrysin

· #16 · Apr 25, 2007

superimposing text

Thanks Joe and Bob I'm all excited now but before downloading a new programme, do you know if Photoshop 7 or an early version of Corel Print House can do this.

Joe Lyddon

· #17 · Apr 25, 2007

harrysin said:
Thanks Joe and Bob I'm all excited now but before downloading a new programme, do you know if Photoshop 7 or an early version of Corel Print House can do this.

Photoshop 7 = Y E S !!

harrysin

· #18 · Apr 25, 2007

If I don't it wont be for the want of trying! Thanks for the info.

Joe Lyddon

· #19 · Apr 25, 2007

Harry, don't worry about it... it's a very simple thing to do... with the right software.

You won't have any problem with it.

harrysin

· #20 · Apr 25, 2007

Joe, I struggled for ages with Photo Shop whilst on Skype with not one but TWO senior forum members without success would you believe! I finally took Bob's advice and downloaded Paint.Net and after about two and a half hours I was able to yell "Eureka" I have never claimed to be a computer whiz, what a good job I have you guys to help me.

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