[mjadams61]

Alright LOL finally got to work on my router table . The table size is 31'x 23" made with 2 3/4' birch plywood glued together. I got the hole for the jess-um router lift cut out but I decided to leave a 3/4' lip and cut it about 1/8' inch deeper than the directions recommended so I could epoxy in 1/2' x 3/4' aluminum angle so my leveling screws will have something to sit on besides the wood lip. I still need to route out the channels for my t-slots for my fence and also I am putting a Dual / Combo T-track Miter T-slot Jig Fixture across the bottom for jigs and such. And the Jessum router lift fits snug thanks to the jessum template I bought. Instead of formica top I am going to wax it with paste wax and I got some cheap Home Depot yardsticks to put around the edge to cover up the raw edge of the plywood.

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

That turned out really nice Marlin. If you use wax make sure it doesn't have any silicone in it. The silicone can cause grief when you go to add finish to your projects.

 

[Stick486]

Alright LOL finally got to work on my router table .
I am going to wax it with paste wax

Johnson's paste wax for your tables and tools...
You can add Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax and Mohawk to the list of acceptable waxes...
If they contain Carnauba wax they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...
You can even add more Carnauba if you want...

http://www.parkbeekeeping.com/products/detail/carnauba-wax

Wax applied to a warm surface is a big plus...
Mechanical polishing over hand buffing is way better.. (elcheapo car buffer or a wool bonnet on your ROS)...
Polishing is what makes the wax work to it's fullest...
More polishing.. Better results...

above all.. make sure it DOES NOT contain silicone...

Wax clean up/removal/thinning is done w/ mineral spirits...
A pound of wax should last way more than a decade maybe even well into the second...
Put it on any tool table surface you have...
Great for plane soles too...
To melt/soften the wax put the container of wax in hot water but not submerged...

Carnauba wax, sometimes also referred to as palm wax or Brazil wax, is a kind of wax that is made from the extracts of palm leaves. These leaves are found on the plant ‘Copernicia prunifera’, a short plant that is usually found in Brazil, especially in the states of Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte and Piaui. Also known as the ‘Queen of waxes’, it is found in yellowish or brownish flakes.

Stick w/ your silicone-less furniture paste wax and avoid possible contamination of your project...

.

 

[dwall174]

I decided to leave a 3/4' lip and cut it about 1/8' inch deeper than the directions recommended so I could epoxy in 1/2' x 3/4' aluminum angle so my leveling screws will have something to sit on besides the wood lip.

The aluminum angle sounds like a good idea!
I may have to borrow that idea on my next router table.

Doug

 

[Stick486]

The aluminum angle sounds like a good idea!
I may have to borrow that idea on my next router table.

Doug

epoxied in flat washer works too...
a counter bore w/ a fostner bit for the washer is pretty expedient...

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

epoxied in flat washer works too...
a counter bore w/ a fostner bit for the washer is pretty expedient...

My last table I thought I'd try driving wood screws through the lip. The router plate sits on the screw heads which I turned in or out until everything was level. That way works just as well as the other methods.

 

[TenGees]

Looking good, Marlin. I like your yardstick idea.

You may already be aware but from what I've heard... You should treat both sides of the top to prevent any warping. Don't know how that applies to the birch plywood but it probably wouldn't hurt. I've had a piece of regular plywood, that has melamine on one side. You should see that warp with humidity out in my garage.

 

[mjadams61]

That turned out really nice Marlin. If you use wax make sure it doesn't have any silicone in it. The silicone can cause grief when you go to add finish to your projects.

Johnson's paste wax for your tables and tools...
You can add Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax and Mohawk to the list of acceptable waxes...
If they contain Carnauba wax they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...
You can even add more Carnauba if you want...

http://www.parkbeekeeping.com/products/detail/carnauba-wax

Wax applied to a warm surface is a big plus...
Mechanical polishing over hand buffing is way better.. (elcheapo car buffer or a wool bonnet on your ROS)...
Polishing is what makes the wax work to it's fullest...
More polishing.. Better results...

above all.. make sure it DOES NOT contain silicone...

Wax clean up/removal/thinning is done w/ mineral spirits...
A pound of wax should last way more than a decade maybe even well into the second...
Put it on any tool table surface you have...
Great for plane soles too...
To melt/soften the wax put the container of wax in hot water but not submerged...

Carnauba wax, sometimes also referred to as palm wax or Brazil wax, is a kind of wax that is made from the extracts of palm leaves. These leaves are found on the plant ‘Copernicia prunifera’, a short plant that is usually found in Brazil, especially in the states of Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte and Piaui. Also known as the ‘Queen of waxes’, it is found in yellowish or brownish flakes.

Stick w/ your silicone-less furniture paste wax and avoid possible contamination of your project...

.

I learned a long time ago silicone and wood dont mix But thank y'all for the reminder. All I have is some minwax I was going to use on it for now.

 

[mjadams61]

well not all yardsticks are the same width but got them attach with titebond and 18 guage brades

 

[mjadams61]

Alright finally got the tracks in, used minwax spar polyurethane on the bottom did 2 coats and minwax furniture wax on the top to slick it up. All that is left is the fence which the main fence will be baltic birch and the sliding fench parts will be poplar.

 

[mjadams61]

Finally got it done Now to work on a adapter for my ridgid 2 1/4 vac hose and the 2 1/2 dust port on my router fence

 

[Stick486]

Finally got it done Now to work on a adapter for my ridgid 2 1/4 vac hose and the 2 1/2 dust port on my router fence

Fernco..
available everywhere...

 

[mjadams61]

Fernco..
available everywhere...

Thank you

 

[dwall174]

Finally got it done

Looks good!

Are you planning anything special for a base/cabinet?

Doug

 

[mjadams61]

Fernco..
available everywhere...

Well Stick I forgot that I had some extension tubes from my old shop vac. The outside diameter of the old tube coupling fit the inside diameter of the dust collection port on my router fence and of coarse the inside diameter fit my new shop vac hose so I cut it off and save me some money

 

[mjadams61]

Looks good!

Are you planning anything special for a base/cabinet?

Doug

No I madeit where I can sotre it easier. My base is a workmate 225. I attach some piedes of 2x4 on the bottom of the router table where I can clamp the table to the workmate.

 

[dwall174]

My base is a workmate 225.

Those workmates are really handy! I got one myself & use it a lot.

Doug

 

[mjadams61]

Those workmates are really handy! I got one myself & use it a lot.

Doug

Yea my wife found this one at a garage sale but Lowes online have them for 58.40 dollars the 225 and CPO outlets have the workmate 425 for 79.99 with free shipping. Been thinking real hard about getting the wm425 for that price

 

[TenGees]

Marlin, your table and fence are looking really nice. I still need to make a new fence... the Baltic birch is an endangered species around here though.