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Discussion Starter #1
OK, here it goes: My first post in this forum and my attempt to design a finger joint jig that's as cheap and simple to build as possible. I would really like it if you guys could take a look at it and tell me what you think, or even better; ways to improve it.

It requires a work table with a gutter in the middle and fixtures for the work piece, this is just an idea for a jig that will control the spacing of the fingers.

I've attached the drawing as a GIF-file, but you can also downlaod it as PDF: View attachment fingerjig.pdf

All white elements in the drawing are wood and so are the spacers as they are will have to be made to match the width of the router bit used. There are angle plates at the left side that serve as stops for the spacers and the cradle will be pushed against the spacers.

I'll see if I can find the time to bring the camera to the garage and take a few pictures of the finished jig. So what do you think? Could it work?
 

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Nord, I'm the last person to dampen anyone's enthusiasm, but regarding finger joints and their jigs, there are jigs available that are so low in cost and do such a good job that I haven't used my relatively complex home-made jig since being introduced to the simple Oak Park "spacer" jig. Oak Park by the way are the sponsors of this forum. There is of course no reason why something simple like this can't be made if it's inconvenient to shop overseas.
Here is a link to the thread I posted when first testing the Oak Park jig.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/5417-harry-tests-oak-park-jig.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you, harrysin. It sounds like the Oak Park jig does the job, but it looks like it requires a table mounted router, and I would like a jig that can be used freehand. The cheapest one I could find i Norway is $160 and I built mine for around $10, so still a bit cheaper I'd say :)
 

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Few people use the router hand held more than me so you have aroused my interest. I look forward to seeing some photographs in due course.
 

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Hi nordhagen

I am also looking forward to your snapshots :)

I love to make jigs, I do try and use Bob R. rule keep it SIMPLE !

Finger joints are easy to put in if you have the right jig, one or a pair is not to hard but when you come up to 4 parts (joints) they must be all the same, or you end up with a box that looks like it was made in shop class 101.

The same thing is true when you cut the slots, it only takes one that's off by 1/64" and you will need a BIG hammer to put the box/joints together..

I will say the Oak-Park box jig is the best one I have and use ,you don't need a high end router table to use it just a flat board to hang the router from and a small hole for the bit and the Oak-Park jig,,you can sit/hang it on some saw horse stands and you can put out some great joints,,

It was the 1st. item(s) I got from Oak-Park and it's one of the best ones..

I will also say I have made jigs for the hand router and they just don't get the job done right...all in all I guess I have made 10 finger jigs and they just don't work or they are are a real pain to use ( simple thing again) ,, :( as well as the Oak-Park ones...


Here's a snapshot of the ones I use...see below,the last and the next to last picture is the Incra Jig that can do it all...

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html

If you don't want to buy one from Oak-Park you can buy one in the states..

http://eagleamerica.com/box-joint-and-dentil-molding-jig/p/400-1251/
http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp?pn=400-1255&bhcd2=1220885023
http://eacmedia.net/manuals/shared/034.pdf


http://www.newwoodworker.com/bxjntjig.html

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Incra Jig
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11494&filter=incra
================





OK, here it goes: My first post in this forum and my attempt to design a finger joint jig that's as cheap and simple to build as possible. I would really like it if you guys could take a look at it and tell me what you think, or even better; ways to improve it.

It requires a work table with a gutter in the middle and fixtures for the work piece, this is just an idea for a jig that will control the spacing of the fingers.

I've attached the drawing as a GIF-file, but you can also downlaod it as PDF: View attachment 14894

All white elements in the drawing are wood and so are the spacers as they are will have to be made to match the width of the router bit used. There are angle plates at the left side that serve as stops for the spacers and the cradle will be pushed against the spacers.

I'll see if I can find the time to bring the camera to the garage and take a few pictures of the finished jig. So what do you think? Could it work?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Photos of the jig

OK, here are some photos of the finished jig. Sorry about the lousy picture quality, I only had my camera phone with me. I haven't gotten around to actually try it yet because I'm working on the doors and drawer fronts for my kitchen on order from the misses. I'll post some results once I get to trying it out.
 

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HI nordhagen

Thanks for the pictures, they are fine but I don't see how you hold the boards in place to put the slots in..
Or is the fixture/jig hanging over your bench vise.. ?

How about just making a simple box and show how it works with a picture of the box when your done..

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OK, here are some photos of the finished jig. Sorry about the lousy picture quality, I only had my camera phone with me. I haven't gotten around to actually try it yet because I'm working on the doors and drawer fronts for my kitchen on order from the misses. I'll post some results once I get to trying it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you, Bob. You ask a very relevant question ;-) The thing is, I sort of knew using the gutter in my work bench would be a good way of ensuring minimal movement of the jig. I have still to figure out how to suspend the boards, but I'm thinking I'll figure something out after staring at the thing for long enough. That's usually how I get there :)

Regarding the stop brackets, could you explain why mounting the brackets the same way would make a difference? I'm thinking as long as they form a perfect 90 degree angle with the rails it wouldn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's it - I just thought out how to fix the boards to the jig; with a clamping table!

I have one just like it, and I can either place ut right underneith the work bench, or I can clamp the jig to the clamping table after clamping the stock to it. That'll work - won't it? I'm gonna have to try this tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)

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Hi nordhagen

" Regarding the stop brackets, could you explain why mounting the brackets the same way would make a difference? I'm thinking as long as they form a perfect 90 degree angle with the rails it wouldn't matter."

It should not make a difference but most machine made items can be off just a little bit when you flip them backwards...

And as you know that's a key part of the jig, they must hold the spacers true and square...for each pass of the router...that's going to be tricky to do.


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Thank you, Bob. You ask a very relevant question ;-) The thing is, I sort of knew using the gutter in my work bench would be a good way of ensuring minimal movement of the jig. I have still to figure out how to suspend the boards, but I'm thinking I'll figure something out after staring at the thing for long enough. That's usually how I get there :)

Regarding the stop brackets, could you explain why mounting the brackets the same way would make a difference? I'm thinking as long as they form a perfect 90 degree angle with the rails it wouldn't matter.
 

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Nord, it all looks fine but it really would be so simple to mount the router onto a board and clamp the board into the portable vice table as shown in your link and there, in 20 minutes you have a router table. I, like you, enjoy "inventing" things however the time spent re-inventing the wheel could be better spent actually making projects. Regarding the brackets mentioned by Bj, I personally like things to be symmetrical, just one of my many quirks! I'm hopeful that my remarks won't dampen your enthusiasm
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm hopeful that my remarks won't dampen your enthusiasm
Not at all. It is just the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I realize that I'm maybe making this task a bit harder than it has to be by insisting on using the router hand held. That's sort of one of my little quirks :)

Bur seriously; mounting the router upside down in a table makes changing the bits just a bit harder and the the damage it can do if it comes loose is potentially, and exponentially, larger. Nevertheless I am prepared to do it that way, if doing it my way isn't good enough. I'll just have to bite the bullet and make a simple router plate for the gutter in my work bench instead maybe.

I'll let you know how it goes when I test the jig.
 

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Hi nordhagen

Just a note about changing the bit in a router table, that's why many use the drop in router mounting plate, you can change the bit from the top side of the table or just pop out the router and get to the router to change the bit or to adjust the bit...

Do take the time and view one of the many RWS shows and let Bob and Rick show you how easy it can be,,,,, :)

see the shows on your computer at
http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/
About 25 of them the last time I check..

click on the Video item,then move the side bar until you see the RWS then select it and you will see the list of the RWS shows on the right side, plus they are FREE 24/7......

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Not at all. It is just the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I realize that I'm maybe making this task a bit harder than it has to be by insisting on using the router hand held. That's sort of one of my little quirks :)

Bur seriously; mounting the router upside down in a table makes changing the bits just a bit harder and the the damage it can do if it comes loose is potentially, and exponentially, larger. Nevertheless I am prepared to do it that way, if doing it my way isn't good enough. I'll just have to bite the bullet and make a simple router plate for the gutter in my work bench instead maybe.

I'll let you know how it goes when I test the jig.
 

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this works for me

i cahanged the foot print to fix to my router bench, and i can use on the saw bench, the complete break down pdf is around 22mb so here is a part drawing
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i cahanged the foot print to fix to my router bench, and i can use on the saw bench, the complete break down pdf is around 22mb so here is a part drawing
Could you please point me in the direction of the full PDF? The BMP was too small to be of any use...

Also Bob; thanks for the link to the woodworking channel! I saw a couple of the videos and they look very interesting. I'll be checking all of them out:)
 
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