Finish Pros/Cons to each
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My favorite all around finish for furniture is a tung oil finish. Several coats rubbed in by hand and allowed to cure between coats brings out the beauty of the wood better than anything.
Pros: It's easy to apply, deep penetration of the surface providing a thick durable finish, scratches are easily covered by simply applying a little more oil on the area, the finish is easily renewed with a light sanding and buffing with more oil.
Cons: Not recommended for outdoor use, longer cure time between coats.
That's my input........Chuck
Pros: It's easy to apply, deep penetration of the surface providing a thick durable finish, scratches are easily covered by simply applying a little more oil on the area, the finish is easily renewed with a light sanding and buffing with more oil.
Cons: Not recommended for outdoor use, longer cure time between coats.
That's my input........Chuck
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558 Posts
I don't know which "tung oil"finish you are using ,but most likely it is a wiping(thinned)varnish that contains absolutely no tung oil. If it is Formby's(Minwax) it is over 50% MS.I would suggest rh111 go to the library and invest some time learning a little about finishes.
Regards
Jerry
Regards
Jerry
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355 Posts
On my didgeridoo and native american style flutes I am using pure tung oil (no petroleum distillates) and citrus solvent (not CitriSolve). Both all natural. I use them mainly because, at least for the flutes, someone's mouth will come in direct contact with whatever finish I apply. I use a 50-50 cut mixture for the first application (50% tung oil - 50% citrus solvent), then a 75-25 mix, then a 90-10 mix. The tung oil is so thick if used straight that it can be a bit stiff to apply.
The tung oil moisture-proofs the wood nicely and seems to harden it a little with time. We gt enough condensation from our breath in either of these instruments that it will actually pool and has to be cleaned out occasionally if the instrument is played for long periods of time.
Some interesting finishes at www.realmilkpaint.com (I hope that's not misconstrued as an advertisement... I have no association with them other than as a customer)
The tung oil moisture-proofs the wood nicely and seems to harden it a little with time. We gt enough condensation from our breath in either of these instruments that it will actually pool and has to be cleaned out occasionally if the instrument is played for long periods of time.
Some interesting finishes at www.realmilkpaint.com (I hope that's not misconstrued as an advertisement... I have no association with them other than as a customer)
Jerry, I don't know if your response was directed at me or not, but my Tung Oil is the real stuff. I don't remember the brand name but it is quite a bit more expensive than Minwax. Just for the record, I don't recall ever using a wiping varnish on any of my projects.
For gunstocks, I like a hot raw linseed oil/turpintine rubbed finish. It takes about 10 days to 2 weeks to put the finish on depending on the ambient heat and humidity which govern the cure time. When it is finished it will last a life time without needing to be refinished. You can't get a finish like that out of a can.......Chuck
For gunstocks, I like a hot raw linseed oil/turpintine rubbed finish. It takes about 10 days to 2 weeks to put the finish on depending on the ambient heat and humidity which govern the cure time. When it is finished it will last a life time without needing to be refinished. You can't get a finish like that out of a can.......Chuck
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558 Posts
All of the major tung oil finishes Minwax,formsby,gillespie etc are either wiping varnishes or oil varnish mixes. and contain no tung oil. If it doesn't say 100% pure tung oil it isn't. When iI read tung oil finish I thought Madison Avenue strikes again. I didn't realize you were using pure tung oil. If you like the look of a close to the wood finish and have the time it takes to apply multiple coats and wait for it to dry between coats great.
Regards
Jerry
Regards
Jerry
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