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First attempt at wall shelves

19K views 168 replies 25 participants last post by  Steve Pack  
#1 · (Edited)
Guys my hats off to you guys . A guy doesn't realize how much time and effort goes into what would seem to be a basic project .
I am trying to build some storage shelves that are mounted high up on the walls . I built these but to get things off the floor and work bench .

I was trying to do the math and it dawned on me that if I cut a bunch of 12" strips from a 4/8 sheet of plywood that I would end up with a bunch of waste as the saw blade takes up some material l so I made it 11.75" deep

Here I cut the lengths out after I did the cross cut . I have enough here for two



Not a great pic but here I'm dadoing a 1/2" in order for the back to be counter sunk in . Of course the plywood is warped so I had to run every piece threw three times . Kinda gave me the creeps pushing the wood down into the blade with my hand in order to make sure it all the material was being removed . A push stick didn't work , wish I had that pick block I was going to order .

I was going to rabbit the other joints to but forgot and it was to late as I should have done it after cross cutting .



So I bought two Kreg shelf pin jigs . I was going to go with standards but didn't like the quality of the ones in town .
I was a little choked as I drilled the first hole and then forgot to insert the pin on the third board , so it moved and was out close to an 1/8" so I used that board for the bottom where it's hidden.
I used that piece of 2/4 as a spacer as I didn't need holes at the beginning


I found out I was drilling on to low a speed and going in to fast so some holes had splinters . I have it down pat now

These were the first attempt on the pic below . You can see there not as clean :(


So I started doing some pocket holes and for the first time I realized that this piece goes up and down too . I found a gold thumb screw that goes in the jig that I wasn't aware of before . Dam I'm terrible with instructions . I think you slide it into the position that is the same thickness as the material ?

I set the bit for what I think is for 1/2" material as the back is 1/2"

Little did I realize that there's different styles of pocket screws . When I was using the pan heads they were not going in flush and sticking out a bit . No big deal but I didn't understand what was going wrong



I find the jig awkward with tall pieces . It would be nice if a guy had material on both sides of the jig for support


Because of the dadoing there's a small gap . It isn't really noticeable though


Putting the back on . I don't like the tight bond 2 as it sets up to quickly . When I run out I'll use my tight bond 3


These other pocket screws recessed in better . You sure have to be careful when installing them as I cracked the wood once . I'm tempted to start with a drill but finish with a screw driver on the next shelf


Here it is on the wall . Much better than the one I bought at HD .


I will build the other one tommorow and install it on the right side of this one . Should help with my storage issues . Shame that I have to take them down to drywall in the future

 
#2 ·
Looks like you are on your way, Rick. Looks good so far. Don't need pin holes near the bottom anyway. Probably the bottom shelf will have the largest things in it anyway.
Keep going. Great pictures.

Are these going on the brick wall?

Herb
 
#3 ·
Are these going on the brick wall?

Herb
There's no brick walls in the garage as its new . I just really wanted some decent shelves to organize the garage a tad . Hopefully I can start on some drawers for the work bench this week . I really want to have all my router accessories in drawers where I can find them. Same for sandpaper etc
 
#4 ·
nice job Rick....

but can you take them down to insulate???...

why didn't you insulate the wall and put up at least one sheet of OSB before you hung the cab???...
 
#5 · (Edited)
That would be no fun . You know I like doing things twice at the very least .

Yea it seems a tad backwards IMO too . But hey , they just aren't that difficult to bring down and I suspect the garage isn't going to get drywalled till next summer the way things are going . Would sure be nice though if the walls were done though . The sad part is that the ceiling must be done first. If it was I'd do as you mentioned
 
#7 ·
Holy Moly....great progress, Rick........

Keep on trucking.....

Although I agree with Mr Stick. At least lay some fibreglass insulation in between the timbers.
 
#9 ·
It's nothing much but I have to say using the pocket screws and shelf pin hole jig is a good learning experience . I can't believe I never knew what a pocket hole was till I joined here . I'm kinda liking them and wish I knew about them years ago as there's places it really would have helped
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I have been following this thread and really learned something from Stick's posting of the various unknown uses of drywall screws. A gem of information. After putting down OSB boards in my unfinished attic with deck screws, I was getting in the habit of using deck screws for just about any projects including anchoring 8 ft lengths of 2x4's on saw horses and ripping them with a circular saw for tomato stakes. And Rick, your photos and descriptions are great.

Bob
 
#10 ·
Rick,

The shelves are looking good!

How are you attaching your cabinets to the studs/wall? I can't tell from the photos. However, I would suggest using French cleats if you are not already. Much easier to remove and install the cabinets/shelves, less likely to pull loose, and more versatile if you want to rearrange.

Listen to Stick, please! Insulate the wall as you go. You will be surprised at how fast it will get done if you do it as you go. The ceiling doesn't have to be done first. In some respects it will be easier to do the ceiling after everything is arranged, stored and out of the way. Your floor area will be uncluttered and all you will have to do is move around some of the equipment instead of clearing out the shop.

â–ˇ Insulate
â–ˇ Sheath
â–ˇ Electrical
â–ˇ Ceiling
â–ˇ Lighting
â–ˇ Cabinets/shelves
â–ˇ Drawers
â–ˇ Dust Collection?
â–ˇ Router table and any other project your little heart desires.

Just start ticking them off...break them into smaller jobs, (like Stick suggested), and watch them disappear.

Bill
 
#13 ·
Bill I was going to use French cleats as I think it's a great system , but never did it .
I should pop it down and go that route. You guys have me thinking about getting this insulation done . Was sure hoping to do other things right now but it's tempting and I wouldn't have to do things twice .

Thanks for all the replies guys :)
 
#11 ·
Nice goin' Rick. You mentioned that you had trouble with the pocket holes in long pieces. I just have the smallest Kreg jig and I do the holes with the parts laying on the bench, instead of standing up. You have to clamp for each hole though.

I have to get started doing some storage for my garage. Unfortunately I need the storage to get the room to start.
 
#12 ·
Guys my hats off to you guys . A guy doesn't realize how much time and effort goes into what would seem to be a basic project .

You can say that again. Every project I start, no matter how small and straightforward, becomes a long drawn out operation. When you see some of the intricate work that has been done by forum members, you realize what human dynamos a lot of them are.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Guys my hats off to you guys . A guy doesn't realize how much time and effort goes into what would seem to be a basic project .

You can say that again. Every project I start, no matter how small and straightforward, becomes a long drawn out operation. When you see some of the intricate work that has been done by forum members, you realize what human dynamos a lot of them are.
Jim I'm not sure if wood working is for me , too much math and to hard to remember steps . I have a ton of respect for carpenters as its really a tough trade , well at least when you get an idiot like me attempting something .
I put pocket holes on the top of the cabinet so they wouldn't be exposed . So what do I do , put the bottom from the first cabinet on the top of the other cabinet defeating the whole idea . So ya, I had to take it apart :(

Then I picked up a full sheet of 1/2" plywood and tripped , dropping it on my cabinet lol .
Luckily my work station blocked it enough so it didn't fold completely , but it was a tad stressed .
Then to top it off I lost that big washer that goes on the arbour of the table saw when I changed to the dado blade .
Spent nearly an hour looking for it and was ready to blow my top when I thought it was probably a good idea to get some food and regroup . Well a break paid off as my brain started working again and I found it . I have no idea how I did it but when I removed the dado blade I slipped it in between its blades in the storage box .

 
#15 ·
Not a great pic but here I'm dadoing a 1/2" in order for the back to be counter sunk in . Of course the plywood is warped so I had to run every piece threw three times . Kinda gave me the creeps pushing the wood down into the blade with my hand in order to make sure it all the material was being removed . A push stick didn't work , wish I had that pick block I was going to order .



I find the jig awkward with tall pieces . It would be nice if a guy had material on both sides of the jig for support
Rick:

When doing dadoes, I like to use the GRR-Ripper - feels a safer and works better than that skimpy push stick you were using.

I've got the Kreg 2000, came with two side supports that will hold up pieces and avoids tipping sideways. I've got mine set up on a jig that I clamp to my bench. See pictures attached.

Vince
 

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#17 ·
Well Vince I wonder if I have those pieces for the Kreg jig to . I have to check out the garage as I remember seeing other parts but didn't have a clue what they were for
 
#18 ·
Electrical first!!!
Do your shop layout then get that electrical system in. Do NOT drill any holes in your trusses! Big no-no.
If it's a 'garage' as far as the Building Code is concerned (not what you're using it for) the Bldg. Inspectors will insist on a minimum of 1/2" Fireguard drywall. If you've done otherwise, there may be insurance implications.
Fireguard works! I've seen it with my own eyes...arson on a townhouse and garage. I was hugely impressed with how effective that stuff is; amazing really.
 
#21 ·
Herein lies the rub Rick... you can learn to do something half ass'ed and develop bad habits while you are at it. OR.. you can take your time, learn to do it right, perhaps not the first time or second or whatever, but you get it right in the end, and take pride in what you've learned and how you've applied it. All that you learned on this project will be eventually applied in later projects. This wood working stuff ain't all that easy, and if you want to get good at it, you gotta pay your dues :) I'm glad to see you anti-upped on these shelves. Nice job!!!
 
#23 · (Edited)
Bill that is exactly what I was thinking . I'm using techniques on these simple shelves that will hopefully evolve into something better later on . So far I'm pretty impressed with what I've learned here lately .

I'll say one thing , I have a lot of respect for the guys here who can build kitchen cabinets . As I was working I was thinking about Mikes cabinets and when he had laid out all those parts to install pocket holes into . That's a ton of labour and math IMO
 
#24 ·
Lot's of good thoughts here but I want to add another twist. I am also building a new shop and the interior looks pretty much exactly the same. The ceiling is 10' and I plan to use 4x8 plywood for the interior walls. This, obviously, leaves about 2' open at the top. I also plan to put storage in that area, approx. 2' high. Shelves would be easier, but, and here's my added twist, I'm thinking more along the lines of cabinets (you know, with doors!) to keep the dust build up down. In my current shop I have a pretty good dust collection system but does anybody collect 100%? So, everything that is exposed gets a layer of dust. Things I have in drawers or behind doors avoid this. What you have built already could pretty easily have doors added; don't have to be the high end fancy kind.

Also, as far as your Kreg pocket hole jig, it is so easy to make a base with wings at the same height as the drilling surface to support the longer pieces. And yes it does make it a lot easier.
 
#28 ·
I'm thinking of popping it off the wall and doing a long section of French cleats to hold the two of them on . I like that system :)
 
#37 · (Edited)
Thanks Alan but not to much talent here lol .

Guys for French cleats , just one at the top and one at the bottom should suffice from 3/4" plywood ? Maybe make the cleats 2-3" in height ? Add a few screws threw the inside of the cabinet into the cleat on the wall?
 
#40 ·
Rick,

I case you are concerned about weight...here is both my saw and plane tills hanging off of the same 6' long cleat.

If you are still concerned with weight being an issue, use two cleats.
 

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#50 · (Edited)
Rick:
Not sure if you've ever seen this guy - Steve Johnson - has quite a few videos and writes articles for Highland Woodworker. Has a bit of a slow drawl and if you can get by that, his vids are pretty good.
Hes got a series on building shop cabinets. This is part II, that talks about French cleats:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTccHpbqKvI
Vince a big thank you! ;)
Wow I wish I seen this video before I proceeded . I thought it would very difficult to safely cross cut rabbit joints after I left myself with small pieces but this video showed me I was wrong . The fixes are so simple yet I don't think of them .
I really have to order some of these clamps asap! Does anyone know what there called ?

 
#55 ·
Awesome thanks guys . I just had a bad thought as my fence is an Excalibur and is a little unusual and it may take some improvising . Kinda miss the Bies now :(
 
#56 · (Edited)
These are 27 bucks a pop but maybe the quality is worth it ?

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001DSZFMG?keywords=Fence clamps&qid=1436324966&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7

This is a good name too
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007OXBLHC?keywords=Fence clamps&qid=1436324966&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8

These no name are inexpensive so I wonder if the quality is there . There shipped from Amazon so they will be here quick
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EWO580M?keywords=Fence clamps&qid=1436324966&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1