Got the Akeda set up and made first dovetail of any kind. Ignore the tear out, that will be delt with in time, just glad to have a set of instruction I can half way understand.
xplorx4
First Blind dovetail
Got the Akeda set up and made first dovetail of any kind. Ignore the tear out, that will be delt with in time, just glad to have a set of instruction I can half way understand.
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Way to go , Jerry.
Not too bad for the first effort.
Will we be seeing all dovetail drawers from now on???:yes2:
Not too bad for the first effort.
Will we be seeing all dovetail drawers from now on???:yes2:
Thank you Jim, I think you will. Either that or box joints.
I can tell you already that it's a "keeper", any time I can read an instruction manual and put into action what it says well, for me that is a great accomplishnent
I can tell you already that it's a "keeper", any time I can read an instruction manual and put into action what it says well, for me that is a great accomplishnent
Jerry, approximately how many trees were used in test pieces before you ended up with such perfect fitting joints?
Harry, we're not talking trees here, we're talking forests.
Sorry Jerry, it really is a nice looking joint.
Sorry Jerry, it really is a nice looking joint.
The only problem I have with that tool, or any for that matter, is one has to be smarter then the tool to work it!! That is where the big rub comes in!!! I only tried three or four times before I did the one you saw. Right after that I did the item below. It really seems straight forward when I follow the write up and pictures,
So far it is worth what I have paid for it. The dust collector works real well. I have decided to use the Sears router in stead of the DeWALT for now. I think I will do a short write up on this one as it is straight forward.
So far it is worth what I have paid for it. The dust collector works real well. I have decided to use the Sears router in stead of the DeWALT for now. I think I will do a short write up on this one as it is straight forward.
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Jerry,
The more you use the Akeda - the more you will like it. Many of the Woodcraft locations have parts and acessories on thier clearence tables. It takes aliitle time calling around to the locations but you can score some good stuff at 25 - 80 % off. Can't get it on line anymore but I got a set a full set of bits, 9 & 11 degree fingers, and a whiteside undersize bit for less that $50 including shipping from one of the TN stores just 2 weeks ago. I also got some bushings from the New Mexico store for less than $10.
Greg
The more you use the Akeda - the more you will like it. Many of the Woodcraft locations have parts and acessories on thier clearence tables. It takes aliitle time calling around to the locations but you can score some good stuff at 25 - 80 % off. Can't get it on line anymore but I got a set a full set of bits, 9 & 11 degree fingers, and a whiteside undersize bit for less that $50 including shipping from one of the TN stores just 2 weeks ago. I also got some bushings from the New Mexico store for less than $10.
Greg
Hey BJ thanks for the links they will help I am sure. Having gotten this thing will open a whole new door of wood working and that will be fun to be sure.
Great first try Jerry.
I felt the same way when I got my Akeda. A couple of test cuts and I made a perfect fit. After a while, you'll find that you can set the bit depths near perfect on the the first try. I usually get a perfect fit after one test cut. I find it best to leave a couple inches of extra length on a pin and tail board, make a test cut, dial it in and cut your boards to length.
A couple of tips to avoid or minimize tear out:
1. Always use a backer board in the horizontal clamp when cutting tails (HB DTs) or pins and tails (through DTs) in the vertical position.
2. For some woods, especially softwoods and stringy woods (mahogany) use a front board as well as a backer board. I make a lot of the same dimension DTs, so I have some templates machined for the job. You can use a piece of 1/4" stock, place it in front of your workpiece (when cutting in the vertical position), and clamp both square to the fence and guides. This will eliminate tearout in the front of the workpiece.
3. Definitely start with a very shallow climb cut (right to left). I actually hog out most of the joints with progressive climb cuts, then plow through on the left end of the joint and clean up the back from left to right. In my experience, this makes the cleanest cuts in most any wood.
4. Use sharp and clean straight and DT bits. I clean the pitch and resin off mine every so often. Amazing how much cleaner a cut is with a clean bit.
I can even make DTs in plywood with virtually no tearout.
Have fun. I spent the first couple of weeks just making joints for fun, experimenting with variable spacing and different joint depths.
I felt the same way when I got my Akeda. A couple of test cuts and I made a perfect fit. After a while, you'll find that you can set the bit depths near perfect on the the first try. I usually get a perfect fit after one test cut. I find it best to leave a couple inches of extra length on a pin and tail board, make a test cut, dial it in and cut your boards to length.
A couple of tips to avoid or minimize tear out:
1. Always use a backer board in the horizontal clamp when cutting tails (HB DTs) or pins and tails (through DTs) in the vertical position.
2. For some woods, especially softwoods and stringy woods (mahogany) use a front board as well as a backer board. I make a lot of the same dimension DTs, so I have some templates machined for the job. You can use a piece of 1/4" stock, place it in front of your workpiece (when cutting in the vertical position), and clamp both square to the fence and guides. This will eliminate tearout in the front of the workpiece.
3. Definitely start with a very shallow climb cut (right to left). I actually hog out most of the joints with progressive climb cuts, then plow through on the left end of the joint and clean up the back from left to right. In my experience, this makes the cleanest cuts in most any wood.
4. Use sharp and clean straight and DT bits. I clean the pitch and resin off mine every so often. Amazing how much cleaner a cut is with a clean bit.
I can even make DTs in plywood with virtually no tearout.
Have fun. I spent the first couple of weeks just making joints for fun, experimenting with variable spacing and different joint depths.
Finally got a straight through DT
It took a while but finally got good results on the straight through DT. I am beginning to understand some things about this jig, for example; If you are doing a project that is all or in part less than half the width of the jig you can set one end for one part of the DT and the other end for the other half using two routers it can stay set up for the DT's. I could see where this could save time and trying to remember what you were doing.
The Pics:
1. The first BDT
2. Second is the most recent through DT
3. The first three
4. Tried to put a bottom in and learned doing it on the TS may be fast, but the results are not good I am sure I could come up with a way but help would be appreciated.
5-7. How it could be set up on each end. They probably go over this later I've just not gotten that far.
I am looking forward to making boxes to go along with the stools, just one more thing to enjoy doing. Any help would be welcome.
It took a while but finally got good results on the straight through DT. I am beginning to understand some things about this jig, for example; If you are doing a project that is all or in part less than half the width of the jig you can set one end for one part of the DT and the other end for the other half using two routers it can stay set up for the DT's. I could see where this could save time and trying to remember what you were doing.
The Pics:
1. The first BDT
2. Second is the most recent through DT
3. The first three
4. Tried to put a bottom in and learned doing it on the TS may be fast, but the results are not good I am sure I could come up with a way but help would be appreciated.
5-7. How it could be set up on each end. They probably go over this later I've just not gotten that far.
I am looking forward to making boxes to go along with the stools, just one more thing to enjoy doing. Any help would be welcome.
Attachments
Thank you BJ for the input and I will be looking to get at least the magic box, at the very least!! Seems I have opened a whole new area to play in, and thats a good thing!
BJ... Would you please post info on the slot for the hinge? That's a concept I haven't got my head around yet. 
Dang but OP's freight rates to Alaska are high... $12 freight on a $23 order consisting of 1 DVD and 1 downloadable plan? It must be a minimum.. I was going to order today but I think I'll wait until I have a larger order to place.
hahaha..
You wait 'til you want to send something to Australia....LOL
But I find the quality of their goods is great and they have what the beginner like myself can get their head around and use out of the box...
I have 3 orders sent from Canada and US over the years via forum friends and the freight far outways the cost of the goods.
You wait 'til you want to send something to Australia....LOL
But I find the quality of their goods is great and they have what the beginner like myself can get their head around and use out of the box...
I have 3 orders sent from Canada and US over the years via forum friends and the freight far outways the cost of the goods.
Hi Guys
"Some one ask, how do you put the magnets in the box for latchs "
Just some more info on the magnet latch's and how to install them in the box or the doors, You will need to make a line up tool (plug), ( 1/4" and 5/16", ones in the snapshot below) very easy job, pull out a bolt cut the head off the bolt than chuck up the bolt and grind it to a very sharp point, than put the bolt in the vice and cut the tip of the bolt off ,about 3/8" long, than grab the cut off with a small pair of vice gips to clean up the burr (see below) once you have that done drill the 1st.hole in the box edge than put the marker plug you just made in the hole ,close the lid on the box this will mark the spot for the other hole, now drill out the other hole, this is not tricky but you must do it right on the 1st.shot..
Once you have both holes drilled out put some supper glue in each hole and push the magnet in the hole but not alll the way, but some wax paper over the magnet and close the lid on the box all the way, put on some masking tape to hold the lid down, once the glue has time to set up pull the tape off and open the lid on the box and remove the wax paper sand light over the magnet to clean up any glue that came out of the holes..
Yes, you can use the a dowel center tool for the 1/4" ones but you will be hard press to find one for the 3/16" or the 5/16" OD ones.
========
"Some one ask, how do you put the magnets in the box for latchs "
Just some more info on the magnet latch's and how to install them in the box or the doors, You will need to make a line up tool (plug), ( 1/4" and 5/16", ones in the snapshot below) very easy job, pull out a bolt cut the head off the bolt than chuck up the bolt and grind it to a very sharp point, than put the bolt in the vice and cut the tip of the bolt off ,about 3/8" long, than grab the cut off with a small pair of vice gips to clean up the burr (see below) once you have that done drill the 1st.hole in the box edge than put the marker plug you just made in the hole ,close the lid on the box this will mark the spot for the other hole, now drill out the other hole, this is not tricky but you must do it right on the 1st.shot..
Once you have both holes drilled out put some supper glue in each hole and push the magnet in the hole but not alll the way, but some wax paper over the magnet and close the lid on the box all the way, put on some masking tape to hold the lid down, once the glue has time to set up pull the tape off and open the lid on the box and remove the wax paper sand light over the magnet to clean up any glue that came out of the holes..
Yes, you can use the a dowel center tool for the 1/4" ones but you will be hard press to find one for the 3/16" or the 5/16" OD ones.
========
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That looks great! And for Your first. Now,it makes You feel that what You put together will look a bit better. And it's fun to do, until You have too many to do at one time. It sure is nice.Jerry
It sure is nice.Jerry-
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