[Biagio]

Michael, I have the predecessor to that router, the 3612C. They never quit, and for a table-mounted router, I doubt you will need any bells and whistles.
Regarding your lift, a UK member posted a similar setup a good few months back - I will give you the same caveat I gave him: the router has ventilation slots on the surface in contact with the lift's table. You may want to have some spacing arrangement in order not to impede airflow (cooling matters to longevity). Or drill holes in the lift table.

As regards the dog, when I did an internship in NYC in 1975, there was a common sign in offices and stores: "If you're so smart, how come you aint rich?"
Years back I had a smart-ass Siamese cat, that expressed a disdainful opinion on most things I made.

 

[Biagio]

That's good to know that the Makita is a solid work horse, I would prefer to keep it if I can figure out how to adjust the speed (electrically). At full speed/2-horsepower - it's frightening to use with small finer pieces of wood.

Michael,
1. You will probably need to reduce speed more with a large-diameter bit, than because of a small piece of wood, where a holding jig or featherboards will decrease the scary factor. I understand that in the US, you have quite a choice of outboard speed controllers - there have been some posts on this forum in the last couple of years. In my view, better to have the outboard controller with a table-mounted router, than a hand-held one.
2. If you thread on two nuts to the end of the threaded rod on the lift (i.e opposite end to the star knob) and lock them together (with cyanoacrylate for good measure) you will be able to make the big height adjustments with a power drill (with forward-reverse) fitted with a suitable socket, then make finer adjustments with the star knob. In principle, I have a similar arrangement, though I modified the router to access the adjustment above the table.