I want to make some window frames inserts out of oak and don't know how to rout out the area to accept the glass. I don't know what bits to use or how to go about it. These window insets are shaped like many you see in a chuch where the bottom start out as square/rectangular and then they progress into a curved point to the top. I hope this helps explain what I am trying to accomplish. dave3751
First time user
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Hi Dave:
The proper bit to use would be a rabbiting bit. The come in various sizes. Most of the better ones have interchangeable bearings to guide them. the size of the bearing will determine the width of the rabit, ie 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. The depth you rabit must be determined by the thickness of the glass and what you are going to put in behind the glass to hold it into the frame. The depth may be made in multiple passes as opposed
to trying to take out all the wood at one time which may cause chipping and breaking the frames parts. hope this helps woodnut65
The proper bit to use would be a rabbiting bit. The come in various sizes. Most of the better ones have interchangeable bearings to guide them. the size of the bearing will determine the width of the rabit, ie 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. The depth you rabit must be determined by the thickness of the glass and what you are going to put in behind the glass to hold it into the frame. The depth may be made in multiple passes as opposed
to trying to take out all the wood at one time which may cause chipping and breaking the frames parts. hope this helps woodnut65
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666 Posts
Have you constructed the frames at this stage???? If so then the rebate Cutter is what you require to cut out the rebate for the glass.Dave3751 said:
Tom
Rabbits are very tasty in a stew.Woodnut65 said:
Woodworkers prefere to use a rabbet and not a furry little bunny.
In UK we find it comical that the archaic word rabbet is still used over the pond when we dropped the word a very long time ago in favour of the word rebate.
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Hello, I am new to routing so please forgive my ignorance.
I have to admit that I was blown away by the way the router can rapidly remove material and how fast you can easily make mistakes.
I decided to start with a 1/4 router first and then when I get the hang of it I'll get a larger one.
I recently bought a variable speed plunge with an aluminum table at Wal-Mart. I am having a ball with it but I have a few questions, first, I have one problem with the table however. When I am sliding the wood over the surface it gets stained by the aluminum. I have read some of you mention waxing the table. What wax do you recommend and how do you apply it?
Is it better to have a solid fence or do you recommend making an assortment? Is it possible to get an aluminum miter slot insert when making a router table.
Do you recommend using a feather board on both sides of the router bit when cutting or moulding long pieces of wood.
I have to admit that I was blown away by the way the router can rapidly remove material and how fast you can easily make mistakes.
I decided to start with a 1/4 router first and then when I get the hang of it I'll get a larger one.
I recently bought a variable speed plunge with an aluminum table at Wal-Mart. I am having a ball with it but I have a few questions, first, I have one problem with the table however. When I am sliding the wood over the surface it gets stained by the aluminum. I have read some of you mention waxing the table. What wax do you recommend and how do you apply it?
Is it better to have a solid fence or do you recommend making an assortment? Is it possible to get an aluminum miter slot insert when making a router table.
Do you recommend using a feather board on both sides of the router bit when cutting or moulding long pieces of wood.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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