Two other possible fixes depending on your set up. Tap the holes to the next largest size and use new adjustment screws. Drill out the existing holes and insert helicoils that match the original screw size and thread pitch.
Yes, possibilities, however I don't think there is enough metal there for either to work. Even if there is, I don't think it would be a permanent fix, merely temporary. So I think I'll just go with my way, I think it should be permanent.Two other possible fixes depending on your set up. Tap the holes to the next largest size and use new adjustment screws. Drill out the existing holes and insert helicoils that match the original screw size and thread pitch.
Yep, that pretty much describes me. >Theo,
Sounds simple and effective.
Trust me, this will work.well it sounds like u know ur saw...nuts to bolts...that is all well and good and ingenuity is certainly something to be proud of .... but ... IMHO - I don't like the sound of any of it.... with that said I wish you all the best in all u do with it....oh btw I can claim not an ounce of knowledge in what u were describing..............
Believe me, I have spent a LOT of time planning my estate. And I should be flat broke by that time. :laugh2:Theo instead of leaving money in your estate to some one leave them an almost new table saw. :laugh2:
Not 'constantly', but oftener than I like. But once I get the blade aligned with the miter slot, and everything tightened and locked, it ain't gonna move again. And as long as the fixed fences are snug against the side of the saw, there is nothing to be out of alignment. The only thing I will need to measure will be each new fence, while I am making it.I am trying to understand this...if it comes out of alignment every few years, and you are constantly having to re-measure everything...if you put the stationary fence and such on, won't you still have to be measuring because now, just another piece will also be out of alignment?
Nope, in my shop my router table and router are the heart, that is the most used, and most fun, tool I have - lots of noise, lots of sawdust, can't help but like that. I've got a decent scrollsaw, a jigsaw upside down in a portable table, a hand held jigsaw, a circular saw, and those actually meet all my sawing needs. Haven't use the bench saw in quite awhile. The reason for re-modding it is because it will save a respectable amount of time over other methods of sawing, for my current projects, and will be accurate. And it doesn't have serious problems, just irritating problems. I figure I can get the saw itself done in maybe an hour tops, depending on how my back holds out. The fences will each take longer than that, maybe a couple of hours each, not counting glue setting time. I've done stuff like this before, and worked out well every time; this is very simple stuff, and don't even need to make a sketch before hand.Theo, A table saw is the heart of a woodworking shop. It gets used for everything. Don't mess with a saw that has serious problems. You will end up spending more shop time fixing the saw than working on your projects.
Before I bought my saw I did a lot of researching on similar size saws. Mostly what I found was that a number of saws in the $300 or so range, were basically the same as mine, top, size, etc. And one or two actually looked identical to mine, except for the colors. Way I figure, it is very possible that my HF saw was made on the same line as some of the pricier saws.Some 40 years ago I bought a cheap, used Delta TS and discovered with routine use the blade would frequently get out of alignment with the miter slot. Turns out the back arbor plate was to thin and could easily be pressed out of alignment. Regrettably Delta advised me there was no repair for that saw as it was discontinued. Out of safety concerns I junked it.
Well, the side of the top, but yes, no movement once it's clamped down.Ahhh I think I see what you are saying now. So the fence will be protruding and butted up against the column? So if it's nice and tight, there's no way for the plate to move then?