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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought I'd take this lazy afternoon and put up a few pics showing the potential for using a DW611 in a table. These are strong little routers for being a palm size at 1-1/4 HP. I once had a 1-1/2 HP in a portable table and it was nice. I enjoyed that so much that I've regretted selling it even though I ended up with a larger DeWalt DW618 in the large Kreg router table. So I'm going to make another one using this little router and it will be for portable use, for small parts shaping, and any job that it's capable of handling which is quite surprising in range. Why do I need this? Maybe I already have a bit in the bigger table set up for something and don't want to change it. What's handier than a router table in a workshop? Two router tables! This one is a good choice due to having available dust collection attachment (doesn't come with it but I purchased it).

To keep things simple and super cheap I am not planning to use a plate insert. I'm just going to fasten the base directly to the plywood. I could route a recess into the bottom side of the 3/4 plywood top to give me maximum bit height, but if theres any worry that thinning the plywood with the recess may cause the mount screws to pull through (depending on material density, or maybe I just worry too much), you do not have to do that with the DW611. The chuck will extend high enough to make that unnecessary. Its necessary to remove the router from its base for bit changes anyway due to the collet having only one place for a wrench and the motor lock button being concealed inside the base, so theres really no need to have it come up any higher.

For these pics I have used my shortest shank 1/4 sized bit. This will give you an idea of just how much shank is still left inside the collet and still allow for maximum cutter use on the bit. All other 1/4 bits I have all have shanks even longer by 1/8 to 1/4 inch, so that's even better. The bit I used as an example has more than 3/4 inch of shank still in the collet, 13/16 actually. As you can see, routing a recess under the table is not needed so that makes mounting this router to a shop made table as simple as drilling 4 mount screw holes and a bit clearance hole. By the way, that hole pattern is 2-13/32 on center from screw to screw all the way around. Mark the 4 holes and then check for square measuring corner to corner (close to 3-3/8) and make a couple of diagonal lines forming an X through the center and you'll know exactly where to drill the bit clearance hole. 1-3/8 or 1-1/2 bit hole is plenty for this little routers abilities. You'll have to pick up some longer screws for the base and I'm sure they're metric. I haven't gotten that far yet.

Pics below! I'll get started on mine soon and show a finished product when it's done.






 

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I have a Colt, and I really like using it freehand and use it more than I thought I would. so managable if you don't over do it.
 
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