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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hi Tom

I like your design and I also like the design of the one below :)
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2641-mortise-tenon-jig-plunge-router.html


BUT I got this one for free so to speak from Brich and that's hard to beat,this one will do it all in just one jig :) Rockler sales one that runs about 000.oo and that's a bit high in price for a M & T jig.
So to say making one like yours or the Oak-Park one works the best the norm... :)
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11367&filter=mortis and teton jig
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=11367&TabSelect=Details

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Bob

I suppose a great number of routing enthusiast would be put off by the cost of purchasing the Jig you have presented. I am in the middle of converting my CD-rom material to DVD on the very subject. The jig has been produced in the workshop with material alreadily available for use at very little cost. I have enclosed my Mortice and tenon Jig so that others can see there is no need to purchase expensive equipment. Like you I do use the 'Loose' tenon 'Floating ' tenon as I am able to produce them quicker with the use of the jig. The shoulders are always 'Square' as they are cut on the 'Drop-saw'.

I will be conducting a 'Profession Development Course' on Wednesday to some of our local teachers from the various colleges here in Perth simple to illustrate that there is no need to purchase expensive jigs when they can be produced in their own workshop, and the students will be able to produce the joint with greater safety awareness.

Router users have to 'Think outside the square' when it comes to producing a number of projects and hopefully I will be able to at least convert a small number of educators to my way of using the router.

Over the years we have been told that 90% of all routing processes is best achieved in the router table. I have a number of projects that would be impossible to be produced in the table mode. There are many postings on not just this forum where it is stressed that the router should be placed in the router table, and that is where it stays. I do believe that if it is left there you are missing out on 80% of the router's potential, (Of course that is my opinion) and I do have a number of projects to back up what I say.

Here is my simple answer to producing a mortice and tenon joint though I am sure it must have been posted at an earlier stage. All I say is make your own jigs in your workshop and save yourself a great deal of expense
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Hi Duane

M & T Jig
I got it from Brich a member of the forum, he was going to trash can it.
And having a big mouth I ask him if I could have it :), I did trade it for some bigger router base plates I made for him :)

HF Lathe
The lathe is great I use it all the time to make some round things :) and do a bit of threading on it....it's only a 7" x 10" but it will do all I need :) I do have many add on items for it that do come in handy :)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93212
http://littlemachineshop.com/

http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/product_new.php
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=1083187856

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*GASP*

BJ Do I see the HF mini metal lathe in the back ground there?
How's that working for ya ?

Also SWEET FRIGG'N JIG ! Where did you get it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
For Brich

Just added some more snapshots for Birch :)
The stock in the jig is 3/4" wide MDF ..
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Manual. I got a copy on the way Brich from a nice guy on Ebay

"It turns out I have to open the box to add another
Item. If you want a copy of the manual I will copy
it and mail it off to you for $5. to cover postage,copy and envelop cost.
Let me know today or it will be gone. My e mail is "

- woodworkerplus

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The only thing bad about this jig is/was the clamping system,,but I took care of that error,, I drilled holes in the clamp bolt threaded rods and put in some cotter pins so the clamp would not fall off and made a new push block out some MDF stock, now when I back off the clamp it comes back and the push block now puts presser on the stock in the right place.. :) without caming out one way or the other ..

By the way the brass guide I asked about didn't need because I had a 1 1/2" O.D. brass guide that worked out just right for this jig..
The one that comes with the jig is a funky steel one with two holes in it to hold it in place , so it worked for the best in the long run. :)

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
You're Welcome Birch

Now comes the kicker :),,, I have a old Craftsman Jig Saw and you said yours went south well guess what it's yours for the asking :) just pay for the shipping :) ,I have posted some other pictures of it ,see my gallery..

It's now in your ball park bud :)


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Well HEY! How about that. Now I want it BACK Bob. I can see how it works now!! I know what some of you guys are thinking..."jeeze, that must be some dummy to just GIVE that thing away." No, not really. I was just not inclined to mess with it and not sure it was even all there. Sure, I COULD have put it on Ebay but what the hell...somebody in the Forum could use it. And, as Bob said, he made a couple little Doo-Dads in exchange for the Device...so it was a win-win. I am DEE lighted it is being put to use. Thanks for posting the pix Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
HI

I know I said jig saw but I'm sure you know I mean was scroll saw , I had jig saw on my mind... type O thing.. but that's great that you got one how about a snapshot of your new toy :)

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Well Bob, what I needed was a SCROLL saw and I found one, still in the box, for a low price. It just arrived today. Thanks anyway, I have a Milwaukee and Makita jig saws!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Hi weerts

Yep, you can use a smaller guide(s) but the 1 1/2" is just the right size..
to put in the slots,, but when you want to make tetons you will want to use a smaller OD guide,,,the jig calles for you to use a 1/4" router bit but you can use 3/8" or 1/2" bits as well..

You will see in the snapshot below with a plastic ring you can make easy to get the 1 1/2" OD that works the best.. :)

Just a note *** the 3/4" brass guide and a 3/8" router bit is just right,when using 3/4" wide stock when you want to put on some tetons on the ends of the stock..:)

To make the plastic adapter = put some 1/4" thick or 1/2" plastic on the drill press on top of some scrap stock, clamp the plastic and the scrap sock down to the drill press top, then chuck up a 1" bit ,drill the 1" hole out then chuck up a 1 1/2" ID hole saw, then cut out the ring,,the 1 1/2" hole saw should be just a little bit bigger than 1 1/2",,, once you have the ring, sand down the outside of the ring so it's dead on 1 1/2", then use some super glue and glue it to the 1" brass guide,,( if you don't want to use the one in the set you can buy a spare at Rockler) once you have that done you now have a adapter the will just fit just right in the Craftsman M & T jig..:)

Plus make a setup block, that's 1 1/2 x 3/4" " x 3/4" put a line on it all the way around the block,this will setup the slide part of the jig on dead center of the stock..then when you want to put in the slots, just mark the stock in the center, move the metal slide bars until it's on the center line on the stock, from this point on you don't want to move the metal side bars,,then when you want to put on the tetons chuck up a 3/8" router bit and the 3/4" OD brass guide and go all the around the inside of the metal side bars, it should be dead on...:)

This jig will also put in dowel pin holes/bead lock holes, very easy and quick and dead on :)

http://www.routerforums.com/86539-post8.html


hope this little tip helps :)

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It's a great little jig :), you will see almost the same thing at Rockler that sells for about 300.oo bucks...


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Hi all,

Last Thursday, I was also given one of these Craftsman M & T jigs. The price is right -- free. It is missing the guide however.

Bob, you mentioned using a 1 1/2" O.D. brass guide. I have some brass guides for my Porter Cable router, but not that large. It seems like the brass guide you show in one of the pictures is smaller than 1 1/2" so I thought I'd double check. Can something other than 1 1/2" be used?

Luke
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
HI Luke

You're Welcome :)

If you are going to Lee Valley you may also want to pickup a clear base plate,it will make it just a bit essayer to mount the 1 1/2" guide..
or you can get it from ptreeusa also or from other woodworkers supply outlets like MLCS that has free shipping..

Router Base With Centering Pin
item #1051
Pre-drilled for most any router, this plate also includes
a smartly designed centering pin that centers the guide to the router collet.
Install a Porter-Cable style guide bushing
(not included), use the centering pin to line-up the base plate to the collet, install your bit for perfect alignment.
Plate has a 1-3/16" dia. center hole that will accept our inlay or template guide kit.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm#20262

Type " A " or " C "
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc2.html



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Hi Bob,

Thank you so much for all the useful information on the jig. I've ordered a 1 1/2" guide from Lee Valley and soon I'll be all set up.
Thanks again,

Luke
 
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