Router Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not going to add anything new to the world here but I want to confirm the good comments you have heard about the Forrestt Woodworker II blade. Installed mine this morning...the thin kerf 40 tooth and the cuts it makes are certainly smooth as glass. The blade cuts quickly and easily, there is not as much blade noise. When you unwrap it and just LOOK at it compared to the blade you just took out of your saw you can clearly see that there is a lot of work in the Forresst blade.
Just wanted to add to the comments I have heard. It is way to expensive for a guy like me but I just HAD to have one. Ha!! I'm the guy that keeps the tool peddlers in business. And the fly fishing peddlers. And the dog training peddlers. And the marine.......you get it!!:fie:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
If you ever experience anything but perfect results add a stiffener to that blade. It helps for some thicker hard woods. It's my my favorite blade overall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
If you ever experience anything but perfect results add a stiffener to that blade. It helps for some thicker hard woods. It's my my favorite blade overall.

Nick
do you use a stiffner on both sides of the blade or if only one, inside or outside.
thanks
Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I have been using Forrest blades for over 20 years. they are excellent blades.
When it needs resharpening I suggest sending it back to Forrest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,001 Posts
I've read the articles about how the so-called thin kerf blades improve saw performance, but haven't tried one myself. The gain, kerf-wise, is only 1/32", so I haven't felt motivated to spend the money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,786 Posts
Hi Guys

I have use the thin kerf blades for a very long time, why put the good wood in the trash can...when I cut the stock up I want the cut to be right on the button with in .010.. and the thin kerf blades can do that job very well :)

====
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,671 Posts
Have not tried one, but will sometime in the future. I have never heard one complaint about them, and unless your cutting nails they stay sharp for a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
Well the thin kerf are almost required for the underpowered saws like mine that do not have a 3 HP motor. My saw is great, but the difference between even the Forrest regular kerf and thin kerf blades are like night and day using the saw.

So the savings in that 1/32 is not the best or only reason to switch blades, but getting more perceived power is and cutting through wood without taxing the motor as much are..

If you have a bench top or less than 3 hp saw make the switch, you will never go back to the thicker blades. With a 3 HP I use the wider kerf Forrest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,820 Posts
does the woodworker II bog down , unless you have a thin kerf blade?? just trying to understand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
I've been using thin kerf blade for about 8 yrs on the shop TS. And for nearly as long using a blade stiffener/vibration dampener. Until I tested the TS for blade/fence/miter slot alignment last fall.

I had always believed the dampener improved the cut. Once the fence was squared to the miter slot I set the dial indicator on the blade Oy! The arbor and dampener were clean, 1st I switched blades, still ugly then I took the dampener off and went from .005 to a weak .002.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,820 Posts
i have a question, how much does the blade stabilizer decrease the capacity of a 10 inch blade?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
i have a question, how much does the blade stabilizer decrease the capacity of a 10 inch blade?
I use a 5" stabilizer. That is the size that Forrest recommends on a 10" blade. That means that I can cut up to 2 1/2" thick with a 10" blade. if I have thicker wood to cut, I remove the stabilizer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,820 Posts
thanks Chris,

i have never used a thin kerf on my present saw. i had a ryobi beofre i got this saw and used a thin kerf on it, but not a stabilizer. thanks for the info.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,437 Posts
Levon,

If you have an "under powered" saw, lets say 2hp and down, it will bog down. This is why, it's recommended to use thin kerf blades for those saws. I tried a full kerf with my Grizzly, the one that came with the saw. Then I tried a freud thin kerf, I'll never go back to a full kerf. As Bj said, less waste and the saw doesn't work as hard to make the cuts. Just make sure to use a stabilizer with the blade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,820 Posts
hi Ken,

i think my saw is a 1 1/2 hp saw. its a ts3660 ridgid. it came with a ridgid thin kerf blade on it and was a poor excuse for a blade, but as many saws come with a bad blade.

i replaced it with a freud fusion blade, full kerf, and it is amazing the difference. i have been delighted with the performance of this blade and once adjusted, it doesnt burn the wood and cuts its smoothly and efficiently. if it bogged down, i would definitely try a thin kerf then, but see no reason to now. the little bit of waste doesnt worry me as i buy extra because of being more inexperienced. but if i ever have a problem with it bogging down, i will buy the thin kerf. i do like the fact that i can cut 3 1/2 inches with my blade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
If that saw works well with the thicker blade it will astonish you with the thinner blade. You can wait for a bog down or just get the new blade and for 80.00 it is the best, fastest, simplest way to make your saw probably twice as good.

Going to the thinner blade will make your saw seem like you just doubled the power. If you do not think so I would gladly buy the blade off you for your cost, I fear you really do not know what you are missing and you won't until you try it.

I went through the same thing, but never knew what I was missing. An underpowered saw does not work up to its full potential with a thicker blade, it just doesn't. No matter how good it is cutting, it will cut better with the thinner blade and I mean a lot better.

A stabilizer is not required for most cuts and mine is not on my blade right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
Mine has a 4" diameter and I lose about 5/16 to 3/8" of cut height on my Delta 10" Uni.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,820 Posts
hi Nick, . my saw works great. as far as selling my fusion blade, i wouldnt think of it. its great! im glad i didnt buy one on the blades that bogs down so bad, maybe its just my saw. but i am going to hang onto both of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
I have a Ridgid TS3660 too. I replaced the blade that came with it with a Freud 40T thin kerf. You WON'T believe the difference. A friend has the same saw, replaced the original blade with a full kerf. After seeing the cuts my thin kerf Freud made, he went out and bought a thin kerf. I will never go back!!
Bill
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top