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Discussion Starter #1
Okay everyone, success! I adjust the bit height and I have successfully made my first frame and panel door. However, that brings up another question (of course it does). I have not yet finished and glued the frame and panel. I read in a popular Woodworking magazine that I should put glue inside the stile grooves. However, I am using 3/4 inch MDF core Plywood and it fits very snugly, i.e., no rattling. I would like to just put glue on the stub tenon rail ends, will this work. I live in Arizona where the humidity is pretty low and all I want is 15 to 20 years out of these cabinets. I just bought 4 Bessey parallel clamps to clamp them up.

Jim
 

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Jim, they may say to put the glue in the stile grooves so that non spills on to the panel???
 

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I recently finished 2 doors using rails and styles. The tenon goes through the mortise groove similar to yours. I used glue on both the tenon and groove to reduce the friction ensuring the tenon bottomed out at the bottom of the groove. My doors are pine. Nice looking door.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not sure I understand. If I put the glue in the stiles I am afraid it will push out onto the panels as it will be squeezed very tight. Remember, the clearance between the plywood and the groove is very tight. That is, you can hear and feel it scrapping as the plywood is fitted into the groove. The plywood is about a 1/16 of an inch shy all around so it can expand in the groove.
 

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prefinish your panels..
glue your rail/stile stubs...
pinning them from the back side is plus...
don't glue the panels use space ball or window spline to control movement and rattle...
add an extra hinge to the door to comp for the weight of the MDF...
plain panels need only to ¼'' thick...
far less weight and they are inherently stronger...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Stick, by pinning do you mean drilling a hole from the back about a 1/2 inch deep and inserting a dowel that goes through the back of the stile into the tenon?
 

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Stick, by pinning do you mean drilling a hole from the back about a 1/2 inch deep and inserting a dowel that goes through the back of the stile into the tenon?
no..
brad \pins as in 23ga... 21 or 18ga would work...

A brad nail is the smallest of the nail family. It's very thin and sometimes referred to as a wire nail. Brad nails have very small heads, and can be hand-driven with a tack hammer, or shot in with a pneumatic nail gun or electric nail gun. All types are readily available at hardware stores. Brad nails come in varying lengths, from 5/8-inch to 2 1/4-inch, and closely resemble finish nails.

Do It Yourself: When And How To Use Brad Nails
 
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It's always good practice to apply glue to both parts. This stops one part from soaking up the glue. Being MDF your panel won't shrink or expand but your framing can so if you don't pre-finish then you will see an unfinished edge when expansion or contraction occurs.
 

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Jim the rails and stiles being solid wood will shrink and expand with changes in humidity and temperature. The MDF panel will also shrink and expand but very very little, especially around the edges where the humidity can enter around raw cuts.
As suggested before it would be wise to pre-finish the MDF panel and make sure you also finish the edges to help minimize shrinkage and expansion of the edges. This will also eliminate seeing the unfinished part of the panel as others have pointed out.
Because the rails and styles will have far more change with the environment it is best not to glue the panel in place because it could cause the joints to pull apart with the wood movement. As Stick suggested pinning the joints from the back will help reinforce the joint.

Of course this is just my opinion and you will find articles and books that give a different opinion.
 

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Jim the rails and stiles being solid wood will shrink and expand with changes in humidity and temperature. The MDF panel will also shrink and expand but very very little, especially around the edges where the humidity can enter around raw cuts.
As suggested before it would be wise to pre-finish the MDF panel and make sure you also finish the edges to help minimize shrinkage and expansion of the edges. This will also eliminate seeing the unfinished part of the panel as others have pointed out.
Because the rails and styles will have far more change with the environment it is best not to glue the panel in place because it could cause the joints to pull apart with the wood movement. As Stick suggested pinning the joints from the back will help reinforce the joint.

Of course this is just my opinion and you will find articles and books that give a different opinion.
thanks for the concordance...
I still think the ¾'' panel is way far too much weight for the rails and stiles being as narrow as they are... all things being relative the joints are pretty small and that MDF is a handicap and a 20 year door is an impossibility...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My bad, I am not using 3/4 inch plywood; I should have said 1/4 oak MDF Plywood. Sorry for the confusion!
 

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My bad, I am not using 3/4 inch plywood; I should have said 1/4 oak MDF Plywood. Sorry for the confusion!
whew!!!
real ply would be a lot lighter...
 
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