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Ok, Part three of the Frame and Panel questions. Which router bit would you use to put a edge on the outside of the frame and panel. Again, the frame is 3/4inch red oak and they will be the door front for kitchen cabinets. Should a use a bull nose, a round over or a .....?

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions, I really appreciate it.

Jim
 

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Depends on a few things Jim. If you are using handles then you might want to use a very small round over or just ease the back edge with some sandpaper. I wouldn't bull nose the edge though. There arent any hard and fast rules here though. If you think something might look good try it on some scrap first and hold it against the carcass and see what you think.

If you aren't using handles, like I often do, then you can use a finger pull bit which will round the backside of the edge. Have a look at some of those bits online if you are going that way. Most are similar but they all seem to be slightly differentand you might prefer a certain one.
 

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no profile.. a sanding block..
RO... 1/8'' to 3/16'' max or whatever you decide is ascetically pleasing...
serious profile... the sky isn't the limit and it's strictly your call...
 

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If you are going to be using European hinges then you will need to use a bit made for them. A normal bit will take too much off the edge. MLCS makes one or at least they did a few years ago.
 

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As you have used an ogee panel bit I would use a 1/4" radius cove bit set to cut about a 3/16" cove in the outer edge of the door. This is the combination used on my oak cabinet doors and I am pleased with the look. As mentioned before, cut a sample, maybe on the door set that you had the alignment issue with, and make sure that is pleasing to you. Mike
 

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Ok, Part three of the Frame and Panel questions. Which router bit would you use to put a edge on the outside of the frame and panel. Again, the frame is 3/4inch red oak and they will be the door front for kitchen cabinets. Should a use a bull nose, a round over or a .....?

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions, I really appreciate it.

Jim
Hi Jim

How about leaving the outer edges basically square, and just slightly breaking the corners with a round over bit. As you are probably going to use a fancy edge on the inner edges the square edge would probably look cleaner, than putting a fancy edge on both sides. Try it out on some scrap lumber, and see what looks the best to you.: Gerry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the suggestions and I will definitely try out different combos on scrap lumber first. I have just applied a couple of coats of Watco Danish Dark Walnut and it looks great. Should I also apply the poly wipe on before assembly or can I do the wipe on poly after I have glued the frame and panel together?
 

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Jim; a point not yet brought up.
If you;re using Euro hinges and no face frame style cabinetry, you'll need to put a slight back-bevel on the outside edge of your doors ...about 1/8" on a 3/4" door thickness.
This allows you to mount the doors with only a slight gap between them, otherwise they'll bind (without the clearance that the back-bevel allows).
Ignore this at your peril... ;)

IMHO the sample below has too much of a visible gap between adjacent doors. Possibly because of no back-bevel allowance?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the information regarding the European hinges. I am thinking of using hidden hinges but the cabinets do have an existing frame that I plan on just sanding an finishing.
 

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I do door pull profiles... I have about 6 profiles that I use for customers... Bu what I use for myself is what Rockler calls their "custom door pull" profile. Not that it is a custom cut profile. That is just the name they call it.

I don't personally like the euro door pull profiles, but I still have them for customers to pick out from....

The idea behind them, besides the design and aesthetics, is that you have a slight relief to be able to pull open a drawer or cabinet door. If you use handles, and/or are using a skeleton frame, with recessed doors/drawers, then thta is not what you go for...
 

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Thanks for all the suggestions and I will definitely try out different combos on scrap lumber first. I have just applied a couple of coats of Watco Danish Dark Walnut and it looks great. Should I also apply the poly wipe on before assembly or can I do the wipe on poly after I have glued the frame and panel together?
You can apply the wipe on first, but be careful not to get it onto your gluing faces, or it might cause bonding issues,
 
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