This is a pretty elaborate jig, the main benefit of which is the cams in place of clamps. You could accomplish the same thing with a flat base and an L shaped fence set absolutely square with a large draftsman's 90 degree triangle. Use two horizontal clampsand measure for square. If your rails and styles were cut accurately to length, squaring one corner should be enough to guarantee a square door.
That simpler jig would also work for picture frames. Lots of paste wax to keep squeeze out at bay. If I did make a jig, I'd prefer something simpler and ridged and made of Baltic Birch ply rather than MDF.
Some musing about my most common project, picture frames.
I wonder it a second L to go over the opposite corner of the frame would help squaring up picture frames, with their mitered corners that slip and slide when glued? Maybe add a sliding stop block on the long arm of the first long L's arm to keep the corners from sliding out of alignment? Then the second L to hold the opposite corner square. Aligning all four slippery corners is the game and applying lots of pressure isn't really needed to close the miters during glueup. Strength of a mitered corner comes from a spline or by attaching a layer of wood underneath with butt joints that overlap the miters. That second layer allows for the canvas stretcher's thickness. A jig like that would help me keep up with my wife's art production. Thanks Theo for posting the jig. It sure spurred some thought.
That simpler jig would also work for picture frames. Lots of paste wax to keep squeeze out at bay. If I did make a jig, I'd prefer something simpler and ridged and made of Baltic Birch ply rather than MDF.
Some musing about my most common project, picture frames.
I wonder it a second L to go over the opposite corner of the frame would help squaring up picture frames, with their mitered corners that slip and slide when glued? Maybe add a sliding stop block on the long arm of the first long L's arm to keep the corners from sliding out of alignment? Then the second L to hold the opposite corner square. Aligning all four slippery corners is the game and applying lots of pressure isn't really needed to close the miters during glueup. Strength of a mitered corner comes from a spline or by attaching a layer of wood underneath with butt joints that overlap the miters. That second layer allows for the canvas stretcher's thickness. A jig like that would help me keep up with my wife's art production. Thanks Theo for posting the jig. It sure spurred some thought.
