Sharon, while many people use MDF for templates I would suggest using 1/4" HDF which is also called tempered hardboard or the brand name Masonite. This will be a bit more durable than MDF and should cost less. (Think pegboard minus the holes) You can make this stronger by laminating both sides with a high pressure laminate like Formica. Going a step further would be to use phenolic for a pattern you wanted to last for years. This would cost a good deal more for the trade off of much longer life.
For free hand work creating the template I would suggest a RotoZip mounted on a large custom base with twin handles. (You will find examples on the forums) The higher speed of the RotoZip combined with the smaller 1/8" diameter of the Zip bits means less material removal but a cleaner cut. Another method would be to use one of the new high quality Bosch jig saws with their new finishing blades. These blades leave a surface so clean it almost needs no sanding. Your template should be sanded to remove any imperfections so they don't transfer to your finished product.

Be sure to include the Male Chauvinist Pig (MCP) in your collection, and then go bake a cake... :jester:
(Just kidding!)

 

Hi Sharon

I agree with you about MDF but I would suggest using a scroll saw to cut out your templates,,MDF is easy to clean up the errors unlike the hardboard...not to say anything about the waffle stuff on the back side of the hardboard, and it will nail most cutting tools..(junk in the hardboard like rocks,,do this quick test and watch the sparks come off it when you cut it on the saw/use a RAS (Radial Arm Saw) to see it ) then once you have the base pattern then make one out of plastic so it will stand up to the router table, to use over and over..I will say it's hard to get anything to stick to hardboard on the back side of it and it's hard to get a pin nail to go into it..I stop using tape and now have switch over to using pin nails on all the templates..the tape lets go just a little bit and that can make a miss out of a good template or prodject..


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My new business venture requires that I make one original sign with a router (or something that can do free hand cuts). Any tips or tools of the trade to make it easier. (I like my coping saw but I can't get the depth with it. :sad

My first attempt was a 21" star. But I realize all the imperfections, after I used this template to make another star.

I used my router free hand to cut out a template out of MDF. Then I put that template on expanded PVC (used to make professional signs from the sign industry, cuts like wood). And then used a router table with my template to cut it out.

 

hi Sharon,

i fully agree with BobJ about the mdf and the pin nails.

when using mdf for templates and patterns, its so easy to true up any errors with just a little sanding.

i also took Bobj's advice about pin nails and now use them quite a lot. its so easy to just pin nail a template to a workpiece and after youre finished milling, the pin nails pull out easy with pliers.

 

I'm not sure what BJ is talking about but I suspect it is a different product. Peg board is similar and would have the rough rear surface. High Density Fiberboard (HDF) or tempered hardboard like the Masonite brand is wood fibers like MDF, no rocks or "junk", is dark brown and is smooth on both sides. I have no problems using double sided carpet tape with it, and my templates hold up very well. Pin nails are a good choice if there will be a lot of pressure for some reason.

 

For free hand work creating the template I would suggest a RotoZip mounted on a large custom base with twin handles

I searched for these with no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

HI Deb

Making your own base plate is very easy to make, I have made many but
Terry as made some also,you can see some of mind in my gallery..

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/1443-freehand-routing.html

I will suggest you want to use a plunge router with 1HP power or better the T4 router comes to mind that you can get from sears but it's not a must have item but makes the job easy for free hand work..I'm almost sure you can get one of the lower end router from Tire that should do the job just fine..but you want it to take on the 1/8" shank bits and the 1/4" ones as well.. the last ime I check on HF they where going for about 20.oo bucks should be about the same at Tire..

The base should be some clear stock so you can see what you are doing, I would suggest one that's 8" x 8" min. in size and 1/4" thick..a simple knob(s) or just some dowel rod will do the trick..or put you new band saw to work and cut out some handles that fit your hand just right..

I will say I like the Bosch Colt for this job and made a plunge base for it,but I'm a bit of a over killer most of the time and made one for peanuts .. LOL

I did add a link for the kit /plate I know you can't get it in CD.but it gives you a price of what it should sale for..
7-1/4-inches plate
http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-12...Router-Design-Inlay/dp/B000KI8SCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1241648613&sr=1-1

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A tool similar to the Roto Zip would be the Marvel 40 4 in 1. Marvel 40 3-in1 Router Kit. I comes with an excellent base very similar to a router base. The RPM's are 30,000 the only thing I have against it is there is no soft start or variable speed but it comes with a 1/8 and 1/4 collets. The reason I thought of it is because ot the base that was mentioned by others. It might be worth checking out.

 

Deb, this is something you make yourself. There are several oversized base plate designs on the forums for trim routers. Dremel offers a plunge router style base too. PM BJ about building an oversized base, he has built several.

 

Great!! I get it now! Thanks Mike and Bob!

 

Hi Deb

Your welcome for my small part,,I did show that you can use a MilesCraft base plate that's a real quick way and a cheap way to make one..plus you have a jig that can be used for more than one job..if you buy a inlay kit from MilesCraft you have one, at a great price,,, plus you get new router bits as a kicker.. that you can use for free hand sign work as well


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Please excuse me if I am barking up the wrong tree but if it is free hand routing you are doing then I have done quite a bit making signs in the past. My tips are to use a plunge router and the smaller the better. Take small shallow cuts and I know this may seem strange but hold the router by it's base plate, this gives more control and finesse of cut. You are taking shallow cuts so there is no fear of the router digging in or kicking back. I normally use a 3mm cutter to outline the letters after I have marked around them with a modeling knife or scalpal. This only needs to be done lightly to sever the fibres around the letters. If you move up to the letter edge with a small sweeping motion you will see the wood whisp away from the edge giving a clean cut. It is also a good idea to tape a torch or I should say flashlight like one of the small aluminium ones to the router to highlight the work. Of course this method can be used on any shape you desire it just takes time. Oh and get yourself a comfy seat to work from, you will find it relaxing after a while. Hope this is of some help to you.

 

Freehand signage

Sharon, here are some samples signs that were all done entirely freehand. In each instance, I just drew the design on the wood and went for it (just used a 360 compass and marked of thirty degrees for the clock faces and used oil board letter templates for all else).

For the relief signs, I used my Porter Cable 690 with both a D handle and the standard base (I've since acquired a plunge base). For the signs that went entirely through the wood, I used my Bosch barrel handled jig saw. For later sign attempts, I used my Colt to get the outline and one of my others to clean out the debris.

In some ways, running a bit deeper makes it easier to avoid "oh crap" moments, since the bit moves slower, even in cedar. The saber, generally, has a lot of control anyway and you can take your time.

 

I said "In some ways, running a bit deeper makes it easier to avoid "oh crap" moments, since the bit moves slower," but should qualify this with a few hundred caveats: 1) It's easier to burn wood this way; 2) If you are pressing hard and hit a soft spot (you will), it can jump ahead. As such, as others advised, it's probably better to take small passes on the first run with a router. Course there "aint no small passes with a jig saw."