[peterbata]

Hello all.

I plan on wall mounting some acoustic panels that I constructed recently. The panel measures 24"W x 48H and will weigh 20lbs when completed. It will be affixed to the wall in a portrait orientation. I am going to use a wooden (MDF) cleat at the very top. Does the cleat necessarily have to span the full width of the panel that I am mounting?

Thank you

Peter

 

[Stick486]

no...

 

[DesertRatTom]

I'd make it long enough to span and attach it to two wall studs, which will also keep it stable. The width of both sides of the cleat isn't all that critical. You could do it with a 3.5 inch wide board ripped down the middle with the blade tilted. MDF is a little more difficult to finish, and a finished or painted piece of hardwood or even pine will look nicer when you take the panel down.

 

[Bstrom]

A means of leveling the cleats may be the hardest part of getting your desired results - let us see what the finish product looks like too. I’m intrigued at what these will look like this far...

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I agree with Tom that you need two attachment points. It could be two short pieces at either end also.

 

[Herb Stoops]

I usually do full width +_, what ever is the easiest with the material you have. As mentioned at least if short one each side,space in center.
Herb

 

[DesertRatTom]

I use a 48 inch level for leveling things like this. Longer makes for finer adjustment. I recall a long time ago seeing on This Old House, that they used a long, clear tube of water to set level when they were leveling something on opposite walls for example. Water seeks its own level so when you mark the level on one end, the water level on the other end is identical.

 

[Nickp]

No you don't need to go the full width...but...it is a good idea to catch two studs.

At two feet wide by 20 lbs I would catch two studs...

 

[Nickp]

I use a 48 inch level for leveling things like this. Longer makes for finer adjustment. I recall a long time ago seeing on This Old House, that they used a long, clear tube of water to set level when they were leveling something on opposite walls for example. Water seeks its own level so when you mark the level on one end, the water level on the other end is identical.

...and it was also discussed on the Forum just recently...

 

[peterbata]

Thank you all for chiming in. I really do appreciate it. Have yourselves a great evening. Peter

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Thank you all for chiming in. I really do appreciate it. Have yourselves a great evening. Peter

I’m assuming this is for a home theatre room? Wouldn’t mind seeing pics

 

[Danman1957]

Hi Peter,
We haven't spoken in a while I hope all is well !

As other members stated, you should only find the support of 2 wall studs. You won't need the full 24''
MDF is fine for your application. You won't be moving them frequently so the cleats won't wear out. The fact that they will be hidden means you don't want to put a finish on them either.
My son's studio is almost done. If he would do more it could have been finished 6 months ago. The only things left to do are; the trim and baseboards which will be installed after the new carpeting. We will likely be creating some sort of acoustic panels but for now we will finally install and use the 16 bass traps we made last year. He got the paint colour to match the fabric of the base traps ! Here are a couple of pictures.

 

[peterbata]

I’m assuming this is for a home theatre room? Wouldn’t mind seeing pics

Actually, I am setting up a small home recording studio. A project that I have had on the back burner for as long as I can remember. Admittedly, it is taking a lot longer than I would have liked. The attached pic is of the rear 6" deep panels wrapped in my daughter's favorite leopard motif. Two more of these panels will be located at the front wall as well. Immediately behind the console / monitors. I will be using solid colors for the first reflection points and cloud panels. Have a wonderful day! Peter

 

[peterbata]

@Danman1957. Looks like your son's room is really shaping up. I have been meaning to reach out to you. Forgive me for not doing so. I hope that you are doing well. Wish you all the best in 2020. Peter

 

[Marco]

no

 

[rmark]

I’m a cleat fanatic. Most of my woodworking consist of Fluted columns and mantle pieces. I’ve cleated pieces that were huge and needed hvac duct jacks to lift them up. Of course my pieces are much larger (and heavier) than 2 stud spaces. I put screws in every stud possible and even liquid nail it. Then when the piece is lifted up and “hung”, I screw the new piece to the studs as well. Often I screw through the face cleat into and through the wall cleat. Very seldom do my wall cleats span the entire distance. This allows me to move the pieces a cpl of inches and / or push the two (or more) pieces together to look like one monstrous piece.

 

[peterbata]

I’m a cleat fanatic. Most of my woodworking consist of Fluted columns and mantle pieces. I’ve cleated pieces that were huge and needed hvac duct jacks to lift them up. Of course my pieces are much larger (and heavier) than 2 stud spaces. I put screws in every stud possible and even liquid nail it. Then when the piece is lifted up and “hung”, I screw the new piece to the studs as well. Often I screw through the face cleat into and through the wall cleat. Very seldom do my wall cleats span the entire distance. This allows me to move the pieces a cpl of inches and / or push the two (or more) pieces together to look like one monstrous piece.

Thank you for providing me with your experience. The only issue that I see my self running into is that I may have to use an anchor of some sort when a stud is unavailable. I do not believe that this is going to be a big deal as the 6" deep panel only weighs 20lbs and the 3" deep panels should weigh considerably less. Now, I use the term "unavailable" because the panel(s) will have to be mounted at the point where my near field monitors fire directly into them. So, using 2 studs for example to screw the cleat into the wall surface may not be a luxury that I will possess. Especially, if two or more panels are placed a short distance from either. That is most likely to happen at the rear of the room and directly behind the monitors.

 

[peterbata]

A means of leveling the cleats may be the hardest part of getting your desired results - let us see what the finish product looks like too. I’m intrigued at what these will look like this far...

Will do. I have an opportunity to acquire either one of these at a very reasonable price. I was wondering which one might render more accurate results and provide ease of use. Could make mounting them a lot easier. Especially considering that I will be mounting panels on all 4 wall and some on the ceiling above the mix position. Thank you. Peter

Bosch GCL 2-55

or

Bosch GLL 1 P

https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/boschtools-ocs/line-lasers-gll-1-p-50826-p/

 

[rmark]

Will do. I have an opportunity to acquire either one of these at a very reasonable price. I was wondering which one might render more accurate results and provide ease of use. Could make mounting them a lot easier. Especially considering that I will be mounting panels on all 4 wall and some on the ceiling above the mix position. Thank you. Peter

Bosch GCL 2-55

or

Bosch GLL 1 P

https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/boschtools-ocs/line-lasers-gll-1-p-50826-p/

I have the GCL 2-55 and I also have GRL300. I got the bigger laser because I got tired of messing around with the smaller 2-55. But, I do this all the time and have to shoot level for large(er) areas. I am currently doing a big foyer and the floor is off 1 3/4” in 33’. This floor is the worst I’ve ever dealt with.

 

[rmark]

Thank you for providing me with your experience. The only issue that I see my self running into is that I may have to use an anchor of some sort when a stud is unavailable. I do not believe that this is going to be a big deal as the 6" deep panel only weighs 20lbs and the 3" deep panels should weigh considerably less. Now, I use the term "unavailable" because the panel(s) will have to be mounted at the point where my near field monitors fire directly into them. So, using 2 studs for example to screw the cleat into the wall surface may not be a luxury that I will possess. Especially, if two or more panels are placed a short distance from either. That is most likely to happen at the rear of the room and directly behind the monitors.

I understand exactly what you’re dealing with and I’d go about it the same way. And, I wouldn’t put your cleat from one side to the other. If you go with a shorter cleat, it’d allow u to move your panels to the exact place you need.