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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I just bought the Freud fixed base 2.25 HP FT 1700. I am wondering if this has the same sub base as the plunge 3.25 ft2000. Should I just exchange this for a PC model instead?

Thanks
Krams
 

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Not sure I understand the question - you mean you don't like the router itself and want to exchange it or you just want a PC compatable base?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gilbear,

Thanks for responding. I was not clear. I am trying to lookup accessories, templates, fixtures etc for the router and the FT1700 does not show up any where. PC seems to have the best. I was not sure if I could use template bushings etc that are meant for the PC models.

There are even some accessories for hte FT2000 from Frued and I wonder if the 200 and the 1700 share some common design elements os that I can use the 2000's accessories with the 1700.

thanks
Krams
 

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Hi,

This being a new router I have seen very little about it. I do know it has some interesting features but even those are not detailed. I had tried to find one in a local store to look at but when I checked they had none (this was maybe a month ago). I have not gone back to look again but Lowes has then listed and that is where I checked. I would think if you can find the FT2000 and the 1700 you should be able to tell if the accessories would work. Also the booklet that comes with the router often lists optional parts like guide bushings and edge guides and who knows what else.

I did read that they are not planning a "plunge" base, don't know if that is an issue for you or not. You might also check amazon.com for reviews and they might list some "attachments".

I know when I got my new model hitachi about a year ago I could find almost no infomation on it either. Turned out that a lot of my porter cable things worked with it which was a big bonus as I already owned them for the couple of porter cables I owned. It even had the same base plate mounting hole spacing so any place my 690's mounted so did the hitachi. Of course I had to buy the router and check it out on my own to find these things out....... turns out I love them (I have 3 of them now).

If you do a search I think someone here was about to get one about a month ago, may be you can contact them and find out how they like it??? If I recall they wanted it for table mounting and liked the single wrench above the table bit changes and above the table height adjustments.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Reible,

Thanks for the idea. I bought mine at Lowes. I have seen the ft2000 at the local Menards. I will compare the sub-base with the PC subbase this week.

I bought it for the same reasons - the above table height adjustment adn the single wrench bit change. I love both the features. The ft1700 actually comes with a knob for the above table height change.

Krams
 

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Hi

If you want to know if it will take pc style bushing measure the hole it should be 1-3/16", the counter sink hole should be 1-3/8". If the hole doesn't match then it is not a pc style. The only other standard I can give the numbers for is the one that oak-park and leevalley sell which has a 1-1/2" center hole and 1-3/4" counter bore.

Would you be willing to answer a couple of questions about the router?

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for info on the PC dimensions. Yes. I can answer any questions to the best of my understanding and ability on the ft1700. Fire away..


Krams
 

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I had looked at that router in a store and wrote a little about it somewhere in this forum, but now I'm lost! At any rate, I decided against it cause I didn't like the on/off switch set-up and couldn't tell about the base plate or bushings.
 

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OK here are a couple questions:
1) What is the dimension from the chuck/collet to the exposed side of the sub base with the router set to maximize this distance?

2)If the router were mounted in a table and if you were working from above the table how many "turns" does it take to have the chuck/collet to the point where you can change bits?

3) Is there a "quick release" that allow the router to be moved from a operational height to a bit changing height or from a bit changing height to an approximate working height?

4) Is the above the table adjustment tool have a course and fine adjustment?

5) How is the shaft lock done and undone?

6) Do they tell you what the dB number is for the router at full speed?

7) Is the chuck/collet self releasing?

8) Will standard pc template guides fit?

9) What is the wrench size for the collet/chuck?

If any of these are unclear let me know and I can try to explain them another way or add a sketch.

Thanks,

Ed
 

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As Ed mentions, lee valley uses 1 and 3/4 inch inserts. They also sell a universal base plate (you drill your own mounting holes in it) that accepts the inserts/guides. I just ordered one up, along with the insert and guide sets. The base plate is 9" diameter and can be used both free hand, and in table. It looks promising.
 

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presumed_druid said:
As Ed mentions, lee valley uses 1 and 3/4 inch inserts. They also sell a universal base plate (you drill your own mounting holes in it) that accepts the inserts/guides. I just ordered one up, along with the insert and guide sets. The base plate is 9" diameter and can be used both free hand, and in table. It looks promising.
If you want to find a centering bushing for the larger hole set up then you might want to check out oak-park. I got one of them for my larger guide bushings and for when I build my own mounting plates. If you are on the mailing list from router workshop they let you know when the sales are... always make it a better deal.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK here are a couple(=2? :) ) questions:
1) What is the dimension from the chuck/collet to the exposed side of the sub base with the router set to maximize this distance?
Will this be the radius of the sub-base plate?

2)If the router were mounted in a table and if you were working from above the table how many "turns" does it take to have the chuck/collet to the point where you can change bits?
The fine screw turns 1/64thand it takes a few turns. I can measure exactly and let you know tomorrow or so.

3) Is there a "quick release" that allow the router to be moved from a operational height to a bit changing height or from a bit changing height to an approximate working height?
Yeah, rather than turning the fine screw, I just use the quick release to push the motor up so the collet is exposed. This quick release basically releases the screw drive and allows the motor to be freely pushed up and down.

4) Is the above the table adjustment tool have a course and fine adjustment?
Nope. The drive above the table is just llike the one below. 1/64ths.

5) How is the shaft lock done and undone?
When the motor is pushed up to the point where the collet is visible above the table there is a rod that pushes into the collet's neck(?) which has a hole to accept the rod. The collet needsto be spun a max of half a turn before the rod engages the shaft and holds it.

6) Do they tell you what the dB number is for the router at full speed?
I have to look athe sheets that came with the router. I 'll get back on this.

7) Is the chuck/collet self releasing?
After you turn the collet with the wrench, it loosens and can be turned with the finger for a turn or two and then tightens again. Then it can only be turned agan with the wrenh and the bit needs to be pulled out but comes off easily - Is this self releasing?

8) Will standard pc template guides fit?
No idea still. Looking for some help on this one.

9) What is the wrench size for the collet/chuck?
There is a number 22 on the wrench. Not sure what it means.
 

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krams said:
OK here are a couple(=2? :) ) questions:
1) What is the dimension from the chuck/collet to the exposed side of the sub base with the router set to maximize this distance?
Will this be the radius of the sub-base plate?

What I'm looking for is the "travel" of the router, from its highest point to where the chuck is just level with the bottom of the sub base.

2)If the router were mounted in a table and if you were working from above the table how many "turns" does it take to have the chuck/collet to the point where you can change bits?
The fine screw turns 1/64thand it takes a few turns. I can measure exactly and let you know tomorrow or so.

Let's change the questions to: how far does a full rotation of the fine screw move the router bit height?

3) Is there a "quick release" that allow the router to be moved from a operational height to a bit changing height or from a bit changing height to an approximate working height?
Yeah, rather than turning the fine screw, I just use the quick release to push the motor up so the collet is exposed. This quick release basically releases the screw drive and allows the motor to be freely pushed up and down.

4) Is the above the table adjustment tool have a course and fine adjustment?
Nope. The drive above the table is just llike the one below. 1/64ths.

5) How is the shaft lock done and undone?
When the motor is pushed up to the point where the collet is visible above the table there is a rod that pushes into the collet's neck(?) which has a hole to accept the rod. The collet needsto be spun a max of half a turn before the rod engages the shaft and holds it.

6) Do they tell you what the dB number is for the router at full speed?
I have to look athe sheets that came with the router. I 'll get back on this.

7) Is the chuck/collet self releasing?
After you turn the collet with the wrench, it loosens and can be turned with the finger for a turn or two and then tightens again. Then it can only be turned agan with the wrenh and the bit needs to be pulled out but comes off easily - Is this self releasing?

No that is not self releasing.....

8) Will standard pc template guides fit?
No idea still. Looking for some help on this one.

9) What is the wrench size for the collet/chuck?
There is a number 22 on the wrench. Not sure what it means.

My guess is that it is a 22mm.

Thanks for the information.

I like all the answers except for #7. I have a couple of router with that type chuck/collet and that is one thing I made sure I didn't get again. I don't want to sound negative and I sure don't want to rain on your new purchase but that is a deal breaker for me.

Please keep us posted as to what you find out about the guide bushing and other details or issues you find, I'm sure a lot of us are interested.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have had this for only a week now. I wanted to get some real opnions on what I have got ...being my first router, I have to learn wht to look for and learn. which is why I am here.

thanks
Krams
 

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reible said:
If you want to find a centering bushing for the larger hole set up then you might want to check out oak-park. I got one of them for my larger guide bushings and for when I build my own mounting plates. If you are on the mailing list from router workshop they let you know when the sales are... always make it a better deal.

Ed
Actually, Ed, the Lee valley base plate comes with a centering system. Thanks though!
 

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krams said:
I have had this for only a week now. I wanted to get some real opnions on what I have got ...being my first router, I have to learn wht to look for and learn. which is why I am here.

thanks
Krams
I just have this thing about those type chucks/collets, I'm sure a lot of people don't mind that design and with the great feature set most people will enjoy theirs.

I should also note that if you get hooked on routers this will not be the last router you buy... A great many people have 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 50 routers and when you go to get a second, third one you will have a better idea of what things you liked and what you didn't like about the ones before.

I should also point out by the time you have a major investment in bits the router is going to sound cheap at $180 or so. If you start buying mid priced bits at let's say an average of $20 a pop it adds up fast.

Ed
 

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presumed_druid said:
Actually, Ed, the Lee valley base plate comes with a centering system. Thanks though!
Gee I should have know that leevalley would take care of that... I like that design and I might own one some day (I have to start parting with some router tables and get to a reasonable level... I have 8 right now).

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #18
reible said:
Thanks for the information.

I like all the answers except for #7. I have a couple of router with that type chuck/collet and that is one thing I made sure I didn't get again. I don't want to sound negative and I sure don't want to rain on your new purchase but that is a deal breaker for me.

Please keep us posted as to what you find out about the guide bushing and other details or issues you find, I'm sure a lot of us are interested.

Ed
The collet moves 7 full turns of the fine screw ( 7 * 1/64 ) form the bottom to the top just below the point where the shaft locks up.
 

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reible said:
Thanks for the information.
I like all the answers except for #7. I have a couple of router with that type chuck/collet and that is one thing I made sure I didn't get again. I don't want to sound negative and I sure don't want to rain on your new purchase but that is a deal breaker for me.
I just got the FT 1700 and the collet is self-releasing (unscrew the collet nut all the way, and the nut and collet come off as a unit).

I also prefer the Freud above-the-table adjustment system to the Porter-Cable. The Porter-Cable adjustment nuts were around 3 inches below the table top, and the lock/unlock hex rod was set inside the cast lock lever hinge, and had to move the whole lever. When I tested the adjustment system before mounting the router in the table, the hinge broke (probably just a flaw in the casting, but we exchanged it for the Freud anyway). The Freud system is just below table level, is sealed and uses a large hex key (included) to turn the components (also the above-table lock/unlock is separate from the below-table unlock lever).

One possible disadvantage of the Freud is that it doesn't seem to be a 'system' router - the base doesn't look interchangeable. This router seems to be designed primarily for table use.
 

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"I just got the FT 1700 and the collet is self-releasing (unscrew the collet nut all the way, and the nut and collet come off as a unit).
"

Hi,

The term one piece nut and collet come to mind as the term for what you have. The term self-releasing is when you turn the nut on the chuck/collet and when it is loose the bit comes out.... as described before if you have to keep turning until you pass a second "tight" spot to get the bit to come out then it is not self-releasing. I think when used in porter cable terms they call it auto-releasing.... anyway that is the feature I wish the Freud would have added to this router.

Ed
 
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