Hi Peter - Try this link:
Freud Tools - Industrial Blades

 

Hi Peter, +1 on John's post this gives about all the info you might need about the usage of the various blades. I've talked to a Freud Rep once and he had said that the Quality control on every blade is the same as they are all basically made on the same machines only different set ups. I find that I almost always use the Freud blades that I have over the others. They are a very good blade for the money.

 

Thanks for this guys. I looked on the link but the Diablo ones weren't mentioned. I eventually found them on another site Diablo Saw Blades 10

I'm still wondering why they are not on the main Freud site and how they differ from those there, as they are obviously made by Freud and are described as premium blades.

Cheers

Peter

 

The industrial line seems like they will withstand more sharpening. The carbide seems a little thicker

 

Peter,

I own a Diablo 10" 60T crosscut blade that I use on my miter saw. Keep in mind the Diablo line is primarily made for the contractor and construction industry, and is a thin kerf blade. If you plan on using this blade on your table saw you may have to remove or modify your riving knife or splitter.
Try the Freud Fusion Premium blade. It's a full kerf blade and one of the most highly rated blades you can by. Amazon sells them for ~$99.

Good luck.

 

Peter,

I own a Diablo 10" 60T crosscut blade that I use on my miter saw. Keep in mind the Diablo line is primarily made for the contractor and construction industry, and is a thin kerf blade. If you plan on using this blade on your table saw you may have to remove or modify your riving knife or splitter.

Good luck.

Thanks Joe. I think that answers the question. The significance of thin kerf blades in table saws hadn't occurred to me before as I think all my blades on that and the sliding mitresaw have 1/8 kerfs and I've no wider ones. My immediate interest is an 80T 10" Diablo for the sliding mitre saw.

Thanks to everyone for your comments.

Cheers

Peter

 

Perhaps Charles will see this.

 

The thin kerf designs are better suited for portable & low powered saws then the full kerf designs. They take less power to cut thru your material.

 

I bought the Premier Fusion thin kerf at Woodcraft for my 20 year old Delta contractor's saw. The cut is SMOOTH!

 

Hi Peter,

I don't have the Diablo blade(s) but, I do have a thin kerf combo blade for my TS, yes, it's a Freud blade. I will say, once you go to a thin kerf, you won't want any other blade. For obvious reasons, a thin kerf won't work the TS near as hard as a full kerf. The 2 drawbacks to a TK is, as already mentioned, riving knife and blade guard will need to be "adjusted" to it. Also, you may need to get a stabilizer ring for the blade. The latter isn't a real big deal but, for safety sake, take your time on the adjustment needed. You may even find riving knives setup for the TK blades. I know they are becoming an option for TS purchases now.

 

Hi Ken

That's why the RAS saw is so great for cut off's, the stock can't lift up and take off like a rocket and into the wall and jam up under the blade, many don't like ripping with the RAS but it's very safe if you use the hold down fork with them ,most of them have a little part of the ant kick back device that drops into the saw cut to at as a splitter plus the blade guard to holds the stock down in place on both sides of the cut..


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Thanks Ken. I might checkout the stabilising rings.

Cheers

Peter

 

Hi Bj,

I totally agree with you. Unfortunately, many don't have one and are like myself, use what is available.