[rwl7532]

Hand cut Contact vinyl, sandblasted with selective glue chipping.
Only by sandblasting can the shading be done.

 

[rwl7532]

Very pleased I never read those instructions!

 

[rwl7532]

And the close up.

 

[rwl7532]

You can control the direction of the chips by how you apply the hot glue...The link you included from LetterHeads is a great place to learn.

Michael

I would be interested in any examples you did that demonstrate this.
Myself, I always used a brush.

 

[rwl7532]

I've worked with Rayzist. Great for small repeated items.
Or learn to cut by hand. I used beige Contact© paper on the attached.

 

[rwl7532]

I owe a big debt to Peter David of Seattle who taught me the basics in 1982. Glue chipping, pounce pattern work etc.

 

[rwl7532]

Movable mylar stencil

Or this on tempered glass.

 

[rwl7532]

Onsite work. Confidence is key.

I redid the doors at least 3 times. Pounce pattern saves the day.

 

[rwl7532]

More on-site. More confidence.

One day cutting, next day blast and clean up.

 

[rwl7532]

Corner detail

Sideways uploading problems.
Low pressure is the key to the shading.

 

[rwl7532]

All I can say is WOW!!! , and you hand cut the stencils? I could never hand cut them, even it was just following he lines with a knife. I like the photo exposing method better because it doesn't require hand cutting.

Charley

Have you tried hand cutting?
In late '80s I gave a number of one day hands on seminars on glass etching. At one of them, an elderly gentleman with obvious hand tremor attended. He had trouble drawing. However, the moment he put his provided Xacto knife into his project, he discovered that the tip didn't move (held by the Contac paper). He was delighted as the knife behaves entirely different than a pencil or a pen. He completed his project with ease and confidence.

The 3 seminar projects were a glass coffee cup and 5x7 pieces of clear glass and one of mirror. Tracing paper, carbon paper and many design books were provided.

Note: better referred as masking or resist. "Stencil" implies that it is one piece and the design of the holes make up the design. I have used the same mylar stencil repeatably, with the blasting it tends to get thinner. The previous peacock project I posted earlier took 13 stencils - all the same slalom shape that the feathers have. As they wore out, I made another identical stencil.

With the Rayzist method what is your size restriction? Can you post a picture of your setup to create them?