Excellent! A question though; you can't make 'white' with an inkjet.* I assume the same applies to a colour laser? How do you tackle the lack of white as a pigment, or do you simply avoid using white?


*white, in inkjet printing, is the absence of ink. ie the white paper shows through.
With transparencies it's an obstacle.

 

White can be a problem, but the simple, practical solution is to just paint the wood white before making the transfer. That's what I did when I used ink-jet decal transfers on my King Kong project.

 

Oliver
Thanks for the enlightenment ( I think I can find a use for that idea )

 

Great how-to demo, Oliver. Thanks!

 

Great tip, Oliver.

I liked the 'vintage' look.....

 

thanks ...will definitely have to try this...

 

Very nice, that may be the answer to a problem that's been ongoing for awhile now, will definitely need to check into this.

 

Your ingenuity Oliver never ceases to amaze me.

 

I use a similar technique with a laser printer, reverse image and a woodburning tool with a flat round tip about 20 mm in diameter. You put the image face down on the wood and simply iron the image onto the wood. I have done both black and colour images and childrens names onto wooden train whistles.

Regards Bob

 

Oliver ~ As always, you come up with some clever ideas. I was wondering if your technique could be used to label garden rakes and axe handles and then finish with a coat of exterior poly. What do other members do to label their garden equipment (eg rakes, shovels, axes, etc)? I never was a big fan of the classic stencil font with split letters.

Bob

 

What do other members do to label their garden equipment (eg rakes, shovels, axes, etc)?

My sons don't 'borrow' anything like that from me, so nothing. Anything they are likely to 'borrow' is painted yellow - which not only keeps them from 'borrowing' them, they usually won't even use them.

 

Good solution. I think you have out shined the light bulb on your icon. lol

 

Very nice I will find a use for that thank you!!!
Roxanne

 

'Morning, Bob; a couple of ID ideas...
1) use a wood burning iron to 'engrave' your name (permanently!) then coat over with your choice of finish.
2) a variation of Theo's solution, and my choice when I had my contracting company, was to spray-bomb a couple or three bands of colour around the handle. Always the same colours so as to quickly ID our stuff ( as it was walking away...).

 

I am surprised that this worked because the fact that Titebond III is supposed to be water proof. I have done this using Gel Medium with fairly good results.

1. I found was that using the thinnest paper possible saves time.
2. Altering the transparency to show the wood grain is key.
3. Contrasting grain patterns add interest.

 

2. Altering the transparency to show the wood grain is key.

Can you provide some detail on that? Sounds just like what I'm after.

 

Hi, Bob.

Can you please, post some pictures about your procedure?

Thanks in advance.

 

Oliver, This is maybe a very stupid question, but what package do you use to reverse the text. Is it something I can do in MS word or something else. Thanks

 

You need to use a software package that will let you apply a "flip horizontal" command to your text or have a printer that will allow you to print a mirror image.

I use Adobe's InDesign, Illustrator, or Photoshop for most of what I do, but I think any paint program should let you flip or mirror text. Here's a link with some suggestions for MS Word: Quick Tip Flip Text.

 

Quick question. What software do you use to get mirror image in the first place. Is it something I can do in MS word.

 

Mirror image of text in MS Word



Paul ~ I’m thinking that Oliver will want to answer your question because he was the original poster. But the quick answer about reversing text in MS word is yes, it can be done. I use MS Office Word 2007. These are the steps:
1. Click Insert tab
2. Click on WordArt tab and select a style
3. This brings up an “Edit WordArt Text” box. Select font, size, etc. and type your text and select O.K.
4. Click on “Rotate” tab, located on the far right of the menu bar under the “Arrange” section and click on the drop down menu and select “Flip Horizontal”. Voila, your mirror image appears and is ready for printing.

But there are other applications, such as MS Digital Image Pro (since discontinued by MS), that does this much easier. Good luck.

Bob

 

Inkscape is a free little program that will give you a great number of fonts and easily reverse the text.

 

Alternate method

In a response to my recent post Swamp Shakedown DaninVan said:



Actually, I don't have the handpainting talent either so I cheated. But rather than use decals I just used regular wood glue. (Titebond III)

Here's the technique:
1. Print your artwork as a mirror image on a laser printer.
2. Apply glue to the face of the reversed image.
3. Lay the glued surface facedown on your wood substrate so the image is against the wood.
4. Burnish it down with a roller or stiff card for a good bond.
5. Let it dry OVERNIGHT. (When you get impatient the results aren't as good)
6. Now you can apply a light film of water (I used my finger) and begin rubbing away the paper.

Eventually you rub away most of the paper and the image is left on the wood. That's how I made the big sign on the shack and the labels on the boxes. I have attached photos that demonstrates how it works.

The final photos are of a test that didn't come out very well because I purposely chose a rough piece of old plywood I found in the wood stack and only brushed off the surface dirt. Then, because I was impatient, I only waited a few hours before trying to remove the paper. The transfer worked but had holes in several places.

Experiment with this. It's a neat way to create (or recreate) vintage looking signs and art.

I have tried multiple times and always end up rubbing the ink off. So I was looking for an alternate sure fire way. It's actually very easy and quick, no overnight drying of glue.
Technique
1. Print your artwork as a mirror image on a laser printer.
2. Tape the paper down to wood firmly so it doesn't move.
3. Put a dribble of poly thinners and wipe over with sponge, pressing firmly.
4. Just wait for the thinners to evaporate and carefully remove paper without smudging.
5. Finish with favourite clear coat.

Sample of finished product below.
It is actually crystal clear, the blur is from camera shake.
Cheers
Paul

 

I have tried multiple times and always end up rubbing the ink off. So I was looking for an alternate sure fire way. It's actually very easy and quick, no overnight drying of glue.
Technique
1. Print your artwork as a mirror image on a laser printer.
2. Tape the paper down to wood firmly so it doesn't move.
3. Put a dribble of poly thinners and wipe over with sponge, pressing firmly.
4. Just wait for the thinners to evaporate and carefully remove paper without smudging.
5. Finish with favourite clear coat.

Sample of finished product below.
It is actually crystal clear, the blur is from camera shake.
Cheers
Paul

That looks great, Paul. I'll give it a try.

 

Great Idea Paul!

what type of thinner are you using?

 

Over here its called Polyurethene thinners, or paint thinners

 

Thanks for sharing your technique. I am going to have to give this a try.

 

I had a go at this technique last night using the cellulose thinners. It certainly transfers the ink but I got pretty smudgy results. The thinners seemed to wick along the paper, or between the paper and the wood, taking the ink with it like a chromatography experiment. I need to have another think about how to apply it and how to ensure there are no gaps under the paper.

This thinners is pretty aggressive stuff. I decanted a small amount into a disposable plastic cup (probably made of styrene) and a few minutes later I found the cup was stuck to the bench! It made the sponge fall apart after a while too.

 

Andy, I use a cloth to apply a thin coat of the thinner on the wood. You could try positioning the paper ink side down and drizzle the thinner on the back side. Either way, use the edge of a credit card, a brayer or the like, to apply a bit of pressure across the image. Then lift the paper.
I used the technique on quarter sawn white oak and found that the amount ink that is absorbed into the wood varies. The ray flecks must be a lot denser as the ink didn't soak in as well on those spots.

 

oops, wrong thread. I've already told Oliver how smart this idea was.

 

From what I have seen, the laser printer technique works better but not everyone has a laser printer. You can always go to Kinkos, Staples or Office Max to have an inexpensive copy run off.

The CRAFT community has been doing this other technique for years. They have it down pat with a choice of a variety of outcomes. This one uses photos, no printer at all, although you can use a photo printed from your printer, inkjet or laser. Unfortunately, this is not for those of you without patience as it requires overnight drying.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRDU1kAq7Is

Cheers!!!