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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know several can recommend the better way of gluing this carcass up. Thought I would try to do it right the first time. The pic shows a bunch of clamps in the spots needed in this dry fit. The 2 sides are being glued to the face frame and the skeleton.

A separate question is a good lubricant for the wooden draw slides and glides that I can get locally to use. Thank you.
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If you have a pocket hole lig you can skip the clamps and glue and have it done in less time and it will be as strong if not stronger. There is a lot of end grain involved that doesn't hold glue that well.
 

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I would beg to differ. Pocket holes can be done in less than a minute per hole start to finish. To hold the face frame on would take 10 minutes tops. To hold the bottom to the sides 10 minutes. To build the face frame could be done in 20 minutes. I doubt that gluing the complete cabinet could be done in 30 minutes or less. If it could commercial shops wouldn't use pocket holes. If you're building something that will be passed down from generation to generation then yeah glue it and make it out of some exotic wood and do nice jointery (not using a jig for dovetails). If you're building a nice piece of furniture for everyday use then do it the easiest way possible. Anything else will cause frustration and can quickly end an otherwise enjoyable hobby. There was an article years ago in Fine woodworking about Norm Abrams and his use of crude tools like a circular saw when he built furniture. I would never want to go up against Norm in a contest of skill. There is a time and place for everything. For those that have never used a pocket hole jig go to the Kreg website and learn what could be the most important thing in woodworking that you are likely to come across.
 

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Commercial shops use frameless and edge banders... some shops use pocket screws and some dont. They just staple and screw the box together...

Norn is Norm... many agree , many dont..

Herloom..... how do you know it is or isn't a Herloom piece?
 

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I would beg to differ. Pocket holes can be done in less than a minute per hole start to finish. To hold the face frame on would take 10 minutes tops. To hold the bottom to the sides 10 minutes. To build the face frame could be done in 20 minutes. I doubt that gluing the complete cabinet could be done in 30 minutes or less. If it could commercial shops wouldn't use pocket holes. If you're building something that will be passed down from generation to generation then yeah glue it and make it out of some exotic wood and do nice jointery (not using a jig for dovetails). If you're building a nice piece of furniture for everyday use then do it the easiest way possible. Anything else will cause frustration and can quickly end an otherwise enjoyable hobby. There was an article years ago in Fine woodworking about Norm Abrams and his use of crude tools like a circular saw when he built furniture. I would never want to go up against Norm in a contest of skill. There is a time and place for everything. For those that have never used a pocket hole jig go to the Kreg website and learn what could be the most important thing in woodworking that you are likely to come across.
If you break up the post it would be much easier to respond...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you have a pocket hole lig you can skip the clamps and glue and have it done in less time and it will be as strong if not stronger. There is a lot of end grain involved that doesn't hold glue that well.
I have the Kreg system and have used it extensively for "Shop Built" shop items and agree it is a quick joint and very strong. It is my go to for a quick something for the shop plus if you don't glue your joints you can take it apart and reuse the wood. I used it for a dining room table top and didn't care for the pocket hole joinery results for that build.

I wanted to increase my woodworking abilities for this build by using splines with glue. If I wanted the face frame done fast I have a gun specifically for that a corrugated fastener tool. it drives 1/4" to 1/2" leg 1" crown corrugated fasteners and is suitable for cabinet and furniture frames, truss construction, picture frames, wood boxes, pallets making, and pallet repair. Corrugated fasteners offer twice the strength of other fasteners, eliminating gluing, milling, clamping, and other time-consuming operations. If you have your pieces cut you can put your face frame together quicker than a cat lick its tail. There's not much satisfaction with the gun but your done. I get what you are saying.
 

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I glue up my pieces, clamp them or put them in a glue jig weighted down. leave them until the next day, then just move on to another piece, or project. Works out nicely, and I don't care if pocket holes and screws are fast, I figure it all evens out in the end, plus I spend less money. If I wind up needing more clamps, I just make some cam clamps, easy to make, very low cost each, and they work nicely..
 
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