Steve,

It will be difficult to keep your box "square" doing it that way.

 

Steve,
Look at the caption above Nickabee's photo, follwing that should answer your question.

Ray H

PS - Any box smaller than the one in Nickabee's photo should proberly be glued up all at once.

 

I studied it, but I can't tell if he glues it up in sections. It kind of looks like he does. Is that what you think?

Thanks

SB

 

It appears to me from the picture and caption, that he has used a machinest square and 2 clamps to hold 2 sides of the box tight and square while the glue dries. Only Nickabee can say for sure how he rest of it was glued together.

Ray H

 

Hi Guys

I'm not sure why anyone would use a machinist squares for glue up blocks, they do sale ones you can buy but why not just make your own ..ploy. works the best but just about any scrap stock you have in the shop will do the job..plus you are making a small box you don't need them...anything under 5"...


poly.= Polyethylene glue will not stick to it

http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm
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Hi SB,

It's always wise to glue the "box" as an entire unit. Not in parts. It only takes 1 piece to be off just a tad to really mess things up.

Hi Bj,

I've seen those but, I prefer to use the external square to help clamp for squareness. Rockler sells them, cheap.
I can post a link if anyone is interested in them.

 

HI Ken

Yep they work but they are a PIA when it comes to box/dovetails because the joint stick out just a little bit or to say just proud of the stock the norm...

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I was worried that no one would reply to me after disclosing that I am a lawyer. Thanks for overlooking that. I am not one of those nasy fellows that does a lot of lawsuits.

Also, thanks for the info.

Steve Bolton

 

Well you also are a woodworker so we will let the lawyer thing slide! Actually, you may get some questions from some of us. What state are you in?

 

I certainly don't mind legal questions, but I don't want to get sued for malpractice. But if you have some, fire away.

I have been a lawyer for 20 years. If I don't know the answer to a question I tell people that I don't (unlike some attorney I know).


Steve Bolton

 

"Some of my best friends are lawyers". Actually ethical lawyers are a tremendous force for good. I am not a lawyer nor do I have any legal training, but I am becoming familiar with Americans with Disabilities Act, some aspects of contract law and of course environmental law. It is all too clear that we need very good and ethical lawyers now.

I have little experience with glue ups that you describe in your post that originated this thread, but it does seem to me that it would be best to have all the pieces together and glued up at the same time.

 

Forgot to add that I am in Minnesota.

SB

 

Bob J - how about a little cutout in the corner to allow for glue squeeze-out?

Are those carbon-fiber clamps? They look a little thin.

 

HI Ralph

You can always clip off the corner but it will let the glue squeeze out so I just leave it with a sharp corner it helps keep the glue from coming out, I also use a little bit of wax paper if I'm not using the poly. blocks..

Yep the drawing was a quick one and the clamps are a bit thin
But you can get two clamp ends in the 1 1/2" hole easy..to pull both ends into the corner
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Gluing it up became quite a challenge as there were so many fingers to try to glue.

I am wondering if you can glue up two sides at one time, let the glue dry and then continue on gluing up the sides, in stages.

You might try a glue with a longer open time.

After screwing up one glue-up, I tried Titebond Extend with a 15 minute open time versus 5 minutes for regular Titebond.

I messed up the next one, and started playing with epoxy. There are lots of options here depending on how tight your joints are and what sort of times you want. I've been playing with T-88 with a 40+ minute pot life, a couple hours open time until it gels,and gap-filling properties (it will make a strong joint with at least a .010" gap as from bad miter angles) although the high viscosity makes it hard to get invisible glue lines. It's water proof, somewhat flexible, and the stuff used to build wooden airplanes and boats. I might try West Systems or a thinner offering from System Three next. No clamping pressure is required to get a strong joint with epoxy.

Epoxy is not water soluble so you can't just wipe off the excess; you need to wear gloves to avoid developing allergies to it; it's a two-part product which needs to be mixed accurately (weighing seems easier; I got a pocket sized digital scale which reads in .01 gram increments) and stirred enough (otherwise it stays sticky forever); and it soaks in some so staining might get iffyier (but varnishes and polyurethanes are OK after you've scraped and sanded the excess).

Uncured epoxy is soluble in alcohol; maybe that could be used to wet a rag like water on yellow glue. I should try that.

White vinegar also works for cleanup. It's not toxic, emulsifies the mess, and won't carry the goo through your skin like acetone.

 

it is easy to do it this way, and will be dead-on accurate with a simple tool, rockler's box square set.

rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10113&filter=square