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3011 Views 10 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  DaninVan
I just got a 1-3/4 hp craftsman router with table. My question is if anyone knows is there a standard setting that sets the router flush with the table.
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Hey, Paul; welcome!
Can't speak for the table you have, but a lot of the members recommend using a router plate recessed into the top of a table.
Instructions for the process are in the archives, and can also be found on the 'net.
Check out M.T.Stringers uploads.
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Welcome to the forum, Paul! I don't have an answer for you but someone will shortly, I'm certain.

Welcome to the forum Paul.
Welcome. Not sure about that table and not too sure what you mean by a setting to make the router flush with the table. Would you mind posting the model numbers of the router and the table.

The router is normally hung from the underside of either the table or, preferably, to the underside of a plate. So the router is usually below the top surface. Plates are generally 3/8ths of an inch thick. If your table doesn't have any sort of plate, then it will likely have some kind of clamp to hold onto the router base. At any rate, you will be moving the router bit up or down. Depending on the bit, thickness of the work piece, even whether you use a jig to set the height, you will set the height to whatever produces the cut you want.

I hope Stick will post his collection of pdfs on using the router soon. You want to read and understand what's in them BEFORE you start using the machine. Improperly used a router can cause a lot of damage. Using it in a table is far safer than freehand operation. Looking forward to seeing what you're making once you get it in operation.
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I don't think you'll find a standard setting because there are so many variables. Everything from router model, to the way it mounts to the table, and all the way down to the particular bit being used, and how far it is inserted in the collet. Speaking of which, I learned the hard way that the bit should never be inserted until it bottoms out and left there because the collet can't tighten it enough at that position. Always insert it to the bottom, and then pull it up about an eighth of an inch before you tighten the nut.
As Ken mentioned there too many variables. Bits are different lengths and how far you insert them can vary so you have to zero each one out except where the bit may be part of a matched set that are marked for how far to insert into the collet. Generally you have to manually adjust to zero each time. Just curious why you are worried about that? To be honest I rarely set to any specific height, I usually set to an approximate height then do a inch of test cut on scrap and then measure or eyeball that to see if it's what I was aiming for. I have several ways of measuring the amount of bit that is exposed but I rarely use them.
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Welcome aboard.
My router is a 37595. It would seem trial and error is the way to go - learn from my mistakes.
Welcome to the forum, Paul. Trial and error will be with you always.
A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words

My router is a 37595. It would seem trial and error is the way to go - learn from my mistakes.
Maybe post a picture or two of what you have there, Paul? If the pictures are on your own computer (I copy them to my Desktop) you can just drag them to the field in your post, directly below the 'Reply to Thread' field. It's labelled "Drag and Drop'.

There's two different interpretations happening here, of what you originally asked:
1)...the base plate relative to the table surface.
2)...the bit height relative to the base plate of the router.
Perhaps you could clarify? :)
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