I would use a dado blade on a table saw. If you are using a router in a router table setup and your cut is wandering make sure you're feeding in the right direction and you are using hold-downs and feather boards.

 

Joe ? Is your shelf a 1” thick, and how deep do want the groove to be?
Are using some kind of guide system, does the 1/2” bit have a bearing or are using a template guide? How long is the groove?

 

w/ grain or cross grain..
and describe the mess up..

 

It may be more of an investment than you want to make at this time, but Eurekazone.com makes what they the Super Smart Routing Kit which works with their Track Saw Guide Rails. You provide your own router - usually a plunge router is used.

The available rail stops allow you to cut exact width and length dadoes & rabbets with smaller router bits. Watch the video to get a sense of it. Think hand-driven CNC router.

 

My guess is that the pastor was using a straight edge, but running the wrong direction against it. Not hard to overcome when the depth was only 1/8", but too hard to keep against the fence when the load/depth increased.

Always move away from you with the fence on the left. Toward you with the fence on the right.

4D

 

I think it’s the opposite you always more right to left, I think?

 

Sounds like you're trying to feed the board into the bit by moving the board. Generally a dado like this should be cut by running the router across the board using some sort of guide clamped to the workpiece.

The following video is on how to make a jig called an exact fit dado jig, which allows you to easily make perfect dados with the router. It is reusable. Next best way to make them is with a table saw, be even there you will find it requires a jig to reliably make the cut 90 degrees to the edge of the board.

Here's the video. Pay particular attention to how carefully he set the glued pieces 90 degrees to the longer guide pieces. And notice that he took pains to make sure the guide edge is dead flat. You will be using a half inch trim bit, maybe 3/4 inch long with a bearing at its base. Attached is a picture of such a jig and small mortising bit with half inch shank.

 

more on feed direction....

 

I’m routing cross grain in the correct direction with feather boards. The blade cuts out and moves the wood messing up the straight line. I tried it again and my next pass was okay

 

I’m trying to make an inch wide groove in a piece of wood to hold a shelf. Right now I’m using half inch bit. Whenever I try to do more than an 1/8inch depth the cut messes up. Is there a simpler way to make an inch groove? How do you make grooves on your table?

Joe ? Is your shelf a 1” thick, and how deep do want the groove to be?
Are using some kind of guide system, does the 1/2” bit have a bearing or are using a template guide? How long is the groove?

My shelf is 1” thick. Generally you want a dado that is 1/3 the board thickness right? So I want it 3/8” deep I’m using a table so I don’t need a guide system right?

 

Here are the pictures

 

I think taking 1/8 inch off per pass is just about right. Trying to take 3/8 off in one pass can burn up your bit. If you make an initial pass of 1/16 or less you will get much sharper edges on your groove/dado, no chance of splintering.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.

 

Thank you I will try this next time.

 

have you considered this joint... (shouldered dado)
have you considered a dado blade for your TS???

...

 

Why this joint?
My table saw is old and rusty, I’m more comfortable with my router.

 

When bilding cabinets, I had been using 3/8 inch deep dadoes. Then one day, I backed off to 1/4 inch depth. Never had any problems. That was 60-70 cabinets, and numerous other projects ago.

I use the exact width dado jig that was referenced. I built it several years ago and drew up the drawing. It has served me well. Make that jig and you will love it.

 

I would love to make this jig but I don't have guide bushings? can it be used without a busing?

 

Stick is correct on using a mortising bit, which is able to make a flat, smooth bottom to the dado or groove. The picture I posted is of a mortising bit. Notice the bearing. The bearing follows the guides of the jig, or if you just use a couple of lengths of wood, the bearing rides against the boards. I'd use a fairly wide board so your clamps can be placed out of the way of the router. Heck, here's the picture of the mortising bit (yellow) compared to the trim bit, (red) for comparison. You can see the carbide is much wider on the mortising bit so it flattens the bottom of the cut better. Mortising bits are also great for recessed hinges and door hardware.

Last item: Don't lower the bit into the slot while it's running. Start the slot or dado outside the piece and slide it across. NEVER lift a fixed base router out of a cut because it is very easy to catch it on the edge. It will ruin the cut or the jig. How would I know about such a thing?

Now that I'm thinking about unhappy experiences, notice the set screws near the bearing? Make sure they are cinched tight. You need to clean and lube the bearings from time to time, so they are removable. But if they're loose, the bit can fly apart.

 

This:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU8NI?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1

Or
This:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU97S?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1

 

This:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU8NI?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1

Or
This:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU97S?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1

This one. Your jig should be 1/2 inch thick. The bearing rides against it. This will do the job for you. As you cut deeper, the bearing will ride against the material if you go that deep.

So, yes, buy this one.

Good times straight ahead.

 

OOPS! Stick is right. I didn't read the specs close enough. !/2 inch diameter is correct. Sorry bout that. Check my pictures and you will see the bit.