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Geetings from the uk,

Just lately I have had a number of projects where I have had to work on site to finish a certain aspect of the job.

I seem to have run in to the same problem a couple of times now and wondered if anybody could help?

I have been using a guided flush timmer, two sizes of round over bit aswell as a router based biscuit cutter. All on either MDF of softwood board.

The problem I have is that the ball bearing of the router bit digs in to the front edge of the material leaving a big fat ugly line. It then takes a lot of hard work to make it all look right.

the problem is not as bad as it was because I'm very aware that the more pressure I apply the worst it gets. However, has anybody got a fix for my problem?

All help is gratefully received...

Merry Christmas to all... :D :D :D
 

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Hi RouterNut

That's one of the draw backs when using softwoods BUT give this a try it will help with the flat mark made by the bearing (nasty flat mark)

Use your fence on the router table to take some of the load off the bearing.
That's say don't use the bearing just use it to set the fence inplace.
It's hard to do on the round but you can do it on every thing else.
Just chuck up the bit and then zero the fence to the bearing,in this way the fence will not let the bearing put the mark on the stock or to say not as deep,

The trim bit needs a offset jig you make quick and easy and it's one of Bob and Ricks best jigs.

NOTE*** if you don't have a router table you can use the fence that you have for your plunge router, it's bit tricky but it will do it.

Bj :)
 

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Routernut, a warm iron run over a damp rag will make your bearing line disappear. The steam generated causes the wood fibers to swell back to their location before the bearing compressed them. You may need to follow up with a bit of fine touch up sanding to remove any "wild" fibers that pop up. Allow the wood to dry completely before applying any finish.
 

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Great tip Mike :)

I Have used it on hardwood but not on the MDF I need to give that a try,dam MDF is like a Sponge and will blow up like one with water or steam. :)

Bj :)
 

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Doug
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I'd have to agree using a router mounted edge guide, either home made or store bought, or you might try laying a piece of masking tape down where the bearing will run. I've used that on laminate I didn't want to scratch, haven't tried it on MDF.

I prefer to use an edge guide anyway, because nothing ruins your day faster than 'tipping' the router and gouging a piece of work.

Maybe a smaller router might help, a laminate trimmer perhaps wouldn't take as much effort to control, might do the trick, just guessing.

lastly, there are square bearing bits, I haven't tried them, but they supposedly don't mar like others do.

http://www.woodworkersworld.net/laminate_trim_bits.shtml
 

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Hi Doug

That's a GREAT tip, :)
LAMINATE TRIMMERS WITH SQUARE EURO BEARINGS
If the bearing is held on with screw like most you can take it off and use on other bits.
(same size thing) or buy extra ones.

That's what's neat about this FOURM if you think you know it all, you will learn something new all the time.
Square Bearings that's thinking out side the box. :)

1 John 1:9 ▼
"If we confess our sins, he is faithful and just to forgive us our sins, and to cleanse us from all unrighteousness."




Bj :)
 

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Hi Corey

Yep, I just did ,#2650 and the #2660 :)
I got to have a sq. bearing ,pie are sq. right :) and I use MDF stock all the time and I don't like that flat spot on the stock made by the ROUND bearing :).
I'm a sucker for router bits can't have to many just like clamps .
---------------------------------------
1 2650 laminate trim square 2650 $23.90 $23.90
1 2660 square laminate trim 2660 $23.90 $23.90
Sub Total $47.80
Tax Total $0.00
Shipping: U.S. Priority Mail (2-3 day service) All of USA including PO Boxes $5.00

Grand Total $52.80

Bj :)
 
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