[Ola C]

You ended up climb cutting in the second pass (see at 0:40 in video link below) This easily happens when you widen a cut on the router table and can be quite dangerous since the workpiece wants to pull out of your hands which then can end up in the router bit. Three different solutions, depending on experience.

1. If you feed normal right to left, aim for the layoutline closest to the fence in the first run, move the fence away from the workpiece to widen the cut in the second run. Don't flip the workpiece.

2. If you want to flip a piece to get the cut perfectly symetric, start with a fence setting so you cut your layout line furthest away from the fence in the first run. Flip the piece and run the second pass without moving the fence.

3. If cutting your closest to the fence layout line in the first run and want to flip the piece for symetry, feed left to right in the second pass. 2 is overall a better way since most people are used to feed right to left, but sometimes you just forget and aim for the wrong layout line in the first pass, then 3 is the solution.

 

[Ola C]

On that table, I'm not sure how you would do this, but getting multiple passes to wind up with exactly the same thickness is worth figuring out. I drilled a quarter inch hole on the left end of the tabble. Then a 1/4 inch hole under that end of the fence. With a 1/4 inch rod, connect the two holes. This gives you a pivoting point with a free swinging other end. You can use a pencil to mark the fence position for every cut, including the last one, so you can repeat the fence position for each piece.

On the table, I ALWAYS try to work with the good face down. Makes it easier to get any grooves in the right place so that the top glues up nice and flat all the way across with a minimum of sanding.

I have a digital micro adjust with 25mm travel on my fence. Enough for most operations where I need to widen a cut.