[Dustylayer]

I've used my CMT baby lockmiter on a number of projects. It will make a lock miter from 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick material.

There are several things I've learned about this bit set. Setup is critical and the hardest piece to cut is always the one machined vertically against the fence.
1. For the setup. the height of the bit and fence depth is crucial. To get it right, see John Lucas's tips under the A/B method for the lockmiter set at www.woodshopdemos.com. This is a simple and reliable method to produce a tight joint.
2. The router speed needs to be set just a bit higher than what is normally recommended for the diameter of the bit. I've experience cleaner cuts upping the speed just a bit higher.
3. For taller pieces (in width) than your router table fence is in height, a tall fence is really, really nice for holding the piece square.
4. A feather board holding the operation square when upright against the fence is critical.

I get good results with this method for plywood and softer woods, but I'm still working on my technique with hardwoods.

 

[Dustylayer]

You are welcome! The bit set does a really nice job, except for end grain in hardwoods. The straw like nature of end grain, in oak especially has some challenges I haven't mastered yet. I think for my setup on my router table it will be in making a holding jig running the upright operation.

Now, having used the bit set, and where accuracy can be hidden, I've come to like table saw rips at 45 degrees, followed by my bisket joiner as a faster alternative. But the lock miter is definately a stronger looking joint.