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Welcome. Try some BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor. It has worked very well for me. We're in a dry climate, but I had an evaporative cooler in there for years and the Boeshield stopped the rust cold.
 

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Hi Dave, just saw this string again and want to add something about insulating. Start by putting in radiant barrier, an aluminized bubble wrap you staple to the underside of the roof. It is designed to reflect radiant heat back toward its source. It only has an R4 insulation value, but when I added it to the underside of the roof in the garage (I live in the desert and it was summer), we measured the roof temperature on the barrier side and again on the raw ply side. There was nearly 40 degrees difference! So with the R38 insulation between rafters, the garage stays moderate in both summer and winter. The barrier reflects heat from the inside back toward the inside, so until I open the garage door, it stays reasonable on both hot and cold days.

I choose to spend the extra $200 on the barrier because I've used it in my shop shed and again in my office shed, both against the roof and in the walls. It was so effective out there, there was no question about using it in the garage.

My garage has a roll up type door with four sections. I insulated it by laying in the radiant barrier against the steel door, then added 1.5 inch foam blocks, then added a second layer of barrier over that. On the hottest and coldest days (4 degrees in winter, 114 in summer), you can touch the insulation and it is never really hot or cold.

The ceiling was dry walled after insulating, but the walls had fire retardent drywall installed already, so there was no reasonable way to lay in the barrier in the walls (VERY expensive to replace it), so the blown in insulation is not nearly as effective as it is, for example, in my shop. The contractor Drilled and screened vent holes in the insulation stops, and added some plastic venting that conducts air past the insulation. He also installed a thermostat controlled exhaust fan, plus an attic access right next to the fan (They don't last long out here in the heat).

If money were no object, I would have had the garage drywall removed, added a 2x2 to each stud, installed the radiant barrier, then put R38 insulation on top of that, then new drywall. The Blown in insulation is only about R13, and is cold to the touch in winter.

Thought I'd share what has been a very successful approach to insulation--the radiant barrier.
--DRT
 

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Hi Dave, I'm a journalist by training and write a lot for my consulting business. I love reading, but my vision is not working for print anymore. The Kindle has really opened up reading again for me.

My outside office is a 10x12 shed, wired, with AC and heat. Insulated roof and walls, double glazed windows. I insulated the floor but it's not enough, at some point I'll get around to putting a skirt around the base (as I did with my shop/shed), which really improved heating and AC effectiveness. Both sheds are on crushed rock bases, which without the skirt, really bled off the heat and AC. The shop shed doesn't have double glazed windows, so I blocked them with foam insulation. Works well enough.

My office shed has wifi via an extender attached to the router in the inside office. Strange, the shed wifi speed is 50 percent faster than in the house. The only issue with the radiant parrier is that in the office shed, the barrier turns into a faraday cage and the phone signal is really weak. The antenna for the shed's wifi is in a window in line of sight to the extender. It is a special antenna made for boats in a marina and it really puls in the signal.

Do you two write fiction, nonfiction or? I cannot make dialogue sound natural, so I stick with nonfiction.
 
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