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Hello. I am just getting into using a router. I purchased the dewalt DW618PK and I had wanted to get the Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table to use with it. I noticed that that particular table only accepts the fixed base and not the plunge base for my router. I would think you would want a table that accepts the plunge base?? This would allow me to change my depth of the bit at the table or am I worng in assuming this? Would I just be ok with using only the fixed base on that table? My example here is that I plan to cut a 45 on the edge of the board but I wanted it to be a small not large cut on the edge. Any help here is appreciated.
Also would there be a better table that would accept my plunge base? I liked that this one has the aluminum table and that it wasnt expensive.
 

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Edgar,

Welcome to Router Forums and our sawdust pile. Please take the time to fill out your profile so we know more about you and the kind of woodworking that you do, or want to do. It sometimes helps to answer the questions better. There us quite a bit of varied experience here, and you may get 50 ways to do something when you ask just one simple question. There is no such thing as a dumb question here, except the one not asked, and sometimes this gang lands on a question like vultures, but we all like to help, especially newbies.

I have three of the DeWalt 618 routers, two are 3 base kits and one is a two base kit, plus a bunch of other routers of several brands. I use the fixed base of the two base kit one of my router tables because I like how it adjusts with the ring adjustment of the fixed base router. Actually my other router table also has a fixed base router in it right now too. They are quite accurate and easy to set the correct bit depth. I much prefer a fixed base router in a router table, and I don't really understand why you think that a plunge base would work better. To me it doesn't, when used in a router table.

For a 45 degree bevel, I would use a 45 degree bit with a bearing, in the fixed base router, mounted in the router table, and I would adjust the height of the bit so that It produces the width of 45 degree bevel cut that I was looking for. Raise the bit for a wider bevel, lower the bit for a narrower bevel, until you raise the bit so high that the bearing will no longer ride against the flat edge of the wood that you are cutting, or until the widest part of the bit is no longer large enough to satisfy your needs. Once you have adjusted the router to the desired height, it's easy to lock the router at this point and make your cut feeding the board clockwise around the bit. I believe you may be over thinking this.

Without a router table, but still using the fixed base with the router, you would again adjust the router until the bit produced the correct width chamfer, lock the router base and then feed the router along your board counter clockwise to cut the chamfer with the bearing on the bit riding against the edge of the wood.. A plunge base router could also be used, hand held, with the same bit, if you set the plunge depth to stop at the depth needed to cut the chamfer desired. Once plunged to this depth you can move the router counter clockwise around the board in the same way to cut the chamfer.

A plunge base router could be used in the router table, but I much prefer the fixed base for the router table and plunge base for free hand routing. It;s just easier to dial the desired cut in the router table for me.

Charley
 

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John
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Hello and welcome to router forum.
use the fix base, most of use that are using plunge routers in tables have remove the springs
 

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Edgar; I hope that's how you'd like to be addressed?
First, welcome!
Now, re the plunge base; it allows the user to come down vertically on to a specific spot, with the motor already up to speed but the bit not in contact with the material.
In theory (but a really bad idea) you could turn it on and walk away from it, leaving it sitting on your material. It's also excellent for boring vertical holes, planing large areas (although you could also do that with a fixed base, hand held), or doing multi depth recesses.
It has absolutely no advantage upside down in a router table.
This is one of the reasons Bosch and others sell router packages which include both fixed and plunge bases. You'd mount the fixed base to a router plate and leave the plunge base available for handheld routing; then all you need to do is pop the motor unit out and back into the other one........or you can buy another router! :)
 

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You can get a lot done with the Bosch 1617 EVSPK kit with both fixed and plunge bases. Later you may find you want another router either larger for the table, or smaller for signs and light trim work. A project is seldom finished without some router detailing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you all for the helpful answers. I didnt think I would be able to adjust the router bit height with the fixed base in the table. Like someone else said maybe I was just over thinking things.
 

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A lot of the guys like to NOT fasten the router plate down to the table. They just pop the router and plate out to adj . ht., change bits etc.
 

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If I am not mistaken, (not owning a 618) adjustments can be made by releasing the locking ring and turning the router body while mounted under a table. I would think that you just need to have enough room to manipulate the router body under the table.
 

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Welcome Edgar. A few fixed base routers can vbe adjusted under the table if access is easy and that is sometimes the issue. Bosch has a kit I think for adjusting the 1617 fixed from above the table. Several plunge routers are made to be adjusted from above the table like the Triton, Milwaukee 5625 I think, the Hitachi M12V2, and there may be others. I have the Hitachi M12V2 in my table with springs removed. I am one of the members who prefers to leave my plate loose in the table so that I can take it out to change bits. For chamfers follow Charley's advice.
 
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Welcome to the forum Edgar.
 

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Hello. I am just getting into using a router. I purchased the dewalt DW618PK and I had wanted to get the Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table to use with it. I noticed that that particular table only accepts the fixed base and not the plunge base for my router. I would think you would want a table that accepts the plunge base?? This would allow me to change my depth of the bit at the table or am I worng in assuming this? Would I just be ok with using only the fixed base on that table? My example here is that I plan to cut a 45 on the edge of the board but I wanted it to be a small not large cut on the edge. Any help here is appreciated.
Also would there be a better table that would accept my plunge base? I liked that this one has the aluminum table and that it wasnt expensive.
Welcome Edgar. Your getting good advice. I have a DW618 with a plunge base and a fixed base and I always use it hand held.For my router table I have a Porter Cable 895PK in my router table and I can do all the adjusting from above the router table except change speeds. To me this is a very nice and time saving. There are several router manufactures that offer it including Bosch.

Porter-Cable 895PK 2 1-4 Peak HP Multi-Base Router Kit with Router Table Height Adjuster

CPO is a great company to buy from and they stand behind their product and ship fast. Also I have bought several refurbished tools from them and have been happy.


Routers and Trimmers | CPO Outlets

Here is a picture of my router table which is not the best but it's not the worst either.

 

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Thank you all for the helpful answers. I didnt think I would be able to adjust the router bit height with the fixed base in the table. Like someone else said maybe I was just over thinking things.
That's OK. I frequently catch myself "over thinking things".

A DeWalt 618 fixed base router is adjusted by releasing the belt buckle type lock and then rotating the ring. The motor itself won't turn. Turn the ring one way and the motor raises, turn it the other way and it retracts. There are height markings on the ring for making small moves, but I prefer to actually measure the bit height. Get it set to the height that you want and then lock it in place with the belt buckle type clamp. Always go back and make certain that the bit height didn't change when you locked the router in in position, as it sometimes can change a little.

Charley
 
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